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Calling all Eugene area RATSUNERS!!!


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Which set up did you get? Defanitly a good call on the brakes with that engine.

I was just gonna run izuzu rotors & d21 4 wd caliper. I did get a 1 " bore wilwood master. Dought I'll try to deal installing until after canby . I have aleady replaced the entire system with new . So it stops it just scary, if you drive mellow its great , only problem is that's hard to do .

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Dude I bet its hard to stay out of it with a freaking V8! I want to do mine disk conversion too but dont want to go on a trip with minimal testing on it. And I dont have to that bad. Not like im trowing down that much power haha. And now its everyone trying to get ready for Canby haha. Wonder who else is Canby crunching?

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Dude I bet its hard to stay out of it with a freaking V8! I want to do mine disk conversion too but dont want to go on a trip with minimal testing on it. And I dont have to that bad. Not like im trowing down that much power haha. And now its everyone trying to get ready for Canby haha. Wonder who else is Canby crunching?

 

 

Me.

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Aww. Well at least you are still going. Thats the spirit! Datsun runs thru your veins for sure. Got.my L20 runiing. Didnt put the intake/exhaust on rigjt so I have to redo that and then it should finally be ready to drive! Dam thing idles like shit.

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I'll be at Canby on Saturday. I'm bringing a truckload of parts for the swapmeet. 

 

What time are you driving up?

 

Maybe I'll bring some parts as well. Wheel and deal... 

 

But we need a vendor space. RadDat3 was open to sharing his.

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Both haha. Want to know whats going.

I'm machining a R180 cover today that will be going along with .750" RCA's, Scooters B pillar trim parts, (Maybe) a battery tray. I have a list but who knows if I can get it completed before Scooter heads out ;)

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It's not that hard to do if you have an air flow meter, and know that they are a serviceable set.

Do you know the history of the carbs, meaning were they sitting on a shelf for years, or did you get them off a running engine?

Are the head intake ports port matched to the dual SU intake manifold?

What I mean is, are the intake holes in the head smaller the the holes in the intake manifold?

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It's not that hard to do if you have an air flow meter, and know that they are a serviceable set.

Do you know the history of the carbs, meaning were they sitting on a shelf for years, or did you get them off a running engine?

Are the head intake ports port matched to the dual SU intake manifold?

What I mean is, are the intake holes in the head smaller the the holes in the intake manifold?

 

I've got a unisyn. The carbs I bought from a local that bought from a ratsun member that have been sitting on a shelf a decade. The ports are not matched but they are SSS 510 carbs/mani. The problem is likely more than just tuning the carbs. This engine has never really ran right. It's always had a slight miss at idle. Compression is good, valves adjusted, plugs have been gapped. I've set the timing a few times. I'll pull the carbs a part and clean the bowls. Adjust the floats.. someday.

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Matt(HRH) and I were talking to Andrews(Bananahamuck?) kid the other day at Canby about this subject, they could not get the power that the stock carb had out of the SUs, you see the stock manifold is port matched to the head(1 1/4" holes or whatever they are), when he put the SU manifold on there which has 1 1/2" holes, the air has to fit in a smaller hole after it gets past the wall/step it has to squeeze past to get into the smaller head port, the head has to be port matched to the SU manifold if you want positive results, Matt said he fought that issue till he gave up and moved on to some other type of fuel delivery system, may have been fuel injection, I don't remember anymore.

He said he could never get it to run correctly. I have never had this issue because the first head I ever used SUs on was a W58 head which has the bigger intake ports already, and while I was running the W58 head with the early square port exhaust I was having a W53 head built to the specs I needed/wanted, which was big valves and a port matched intake, the thing screamed when I put that head and SUs on that L20b block, after that I never ever will consider using an L16 block again, they have no power compared to an L20b, even with a stock carb, let alone a dual SU package.

 

The other thing that you have to consider is the fact that they sat on a shelf for a decade, they were put on that shelf for a reason, it is likely that they did not function properly, that's why they ended up on the shelf.

What I would do if I were you, disconnect the throttle cable, then push down on the rear carbs linkage and make sure you adjust them so that both carb linkages move at the same time, then adjust both carb fuel mixture nuts to look about the same, they are on the bottom of the carbs, then start the engine and adjust the idle screw to about a 1000rpms, now use the air flow meter and adjust the airflow till both carbs have the same flow, shut the engine off, then move the rear carb linkage and make sure they both move at the same time again, now start it up again, on the bottom of each carb there is a little shaft sticking out that has a tiny spring on it, when you push up on that shaft(1/16" round) it disables/neutralizes that carb by lifting the piston up in that carb a little bit, that causes it to loose vacuum which in turn stops it from sucking fuel in, disable the front carb, then start to tighten the back carbs fuel mixture nut on the bottom till the engine almost dies, it will go chug-chug-chug in kind of a rhythm, let the front carb neutralizer go and the engine will go back to a normal idle, now disable the back carb and tighten the front fuel mixture nut till it sounds the same as the back one did when it was going chug-chug-chug, you want them both to have that same rhythm but not so slow that the engine dies.

You can now set the idle screw till the engine idles about 800rpms.

Now if when you are tightening the fuel mixture nuts trying to find that spot when the engine almost dies and you run out of threads on the mixture nut(it bottoms out), meaning you just closed the fuel mixture nut all the way and it is still running, then that carb is not serviceable anymore and needs worked on, it could still run and drive decently, but it will be rich all the time, and when you change the plugs on them 2 cylinders, they will always be black.

I check the plugs maybe twice a year, if the back 2 are black, I lean out the back carb(tighten the nut), if they are to white/lean, I loosen the nut and make it a little richer, that is actually how I adjust mine now, by plug color.

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You know Wayno i think the best thing you told Donovan was make sure they are both opening at the same time.. As i think we were trying to increase mid range grunt by enrichening at an idle when what we really needed to do was bend those tangs on the spreader bar thingamabob around so they rise at the same time..

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