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SU Air Cleaners for a Ratsun Price!

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Here is a great Ratsun way to get SU air cleaners at a fraction of the price of the K&N variety.

 

The K&N 6 inch round filter 2 inches tall currently retails between $40 and $55, depending on where you go. And that is for just one!

Double the price and don't forget that you still have to fabricate a mount to the carb(s) themselves. (K&N not so Datsun Friendly)

 

Whatever air filters I would have chose, I would have added a nice set of Stub Stacks (for extra air flow) They retail for $32.95 each

Available through Advance Performance Technology of Riverside California. http://www.aptfast.com

http://www.aptfast.com/UserData/Images/Large/101221.jpg (NOTE: Two screws per assembly with the K&N filters; the one for the rear carb would be a bish to remove...:eek:)

 

APT also has the K&N plates for the HS4 carbs (the British equivalent to the 38mm Hitachis) for and additional $35 each.

 

So, after all is said and done, you have spent well into $150+ for filters and plates (not counting the Stub Stacks, they are for performance) and you've got K&N filters that have multiple screws that are hard to get at, and if you are unfortunate enough to get the wrong size air cleaners (hit the brake booster, etc.), you're stuck with them and still need new ones.

 

Here is a "how-to" to get a functional part and great looks for a Ratsun price!

 

I went to my local Volkswagen shop and looked for Empi Air Cleaners. Look for the ones that you want. I wanted the 2 inch tall FILTER. (Empi P/N 8970, the 3 1/2 inch is OVERALL HEIGHT of assembly, VW numbers...:confused:) (http://www.empius.com/vwcatalog/2011/88.html) You will need two.

Also, and usually in the same area on the shelf, get two additional air cleaners with the same diameter. In this case, I got the 2 1/2 inch tall variety (Empi P/N 8957) (http://www.empius.com/vwcatalog/2011/88.html), just for the lids. You will see why shortly.

 

AirCleaner1.jpg

 

AirCleaner2.jpg

 

The first step was to unwrap them, and remove the lids from the ones you "don't want". Don't toss the rest, you'll need one more part from them...

 

AirCleaner2a.jpg

 

AirCleaner2b.jpg

 

After taking off the lid, I grabbed my handy 1 1/2" Milwaukee bit for drilling metal, and centered it in the lid. Don't worry about if it gets squirrelly, I found that it gave me an extra 1/32" around the whole thing. Not bad.

 

AirCleaner3.jpg

 

Next, remove the bracket from the bottom of the housing. I wiggled this one a bit and it basically came right off. The second one was not so simple. A 9/64" bit convinced it to change its mind...

 

AirCleaner4.jpg

 

The bottom of the housing is now worthless. Do with it what you wish...

 

After drilling out the larger intake hole, I used my Stub Stacks as a template and drilled the 5/16" holes for mounting the side bolts (Not really, I used a 1/4" bit and moved it around to get the 5/16") Lazy.

 

I took the mounting bracket and tilted it so that it fit around the stub stack AND was centered on the air cleaner assembly. I made two marks and drilled my 9/64 holes for my rivets.

 

AirCleaner5.jpg

 

I riveted the mounting bracket to the new "base" and ensured that everything else went together as it should (centered the stub stack (which makes for a good flange), inverted the mounting screw so I could mount the lids, etc.)

 

AirCleaner6.jpg

 

Mounted the finished assembly to the front carb.

 

Rinse, Lather, Repeat for the second Air Cleaner Assembly.

 

And after about an hour's worth of work, the assemblies look real damn nice. And with the inverted mounting screw, you can adjust for different height air filters. Bonus! And with the plethora of Volkswagens around, this part is not likely to go out of style anytime soon!!

 

AirCleaner7.jpg

 

After a quick test fit, I can say I was satisfied with the results. I love the look of dual chrome air cleaners, and with this simple fix, I saved about $100 bucks, and got to know my SUs a little better in the process :) They are about 1 1/2"+ away from the brake master cylinder, so there's enough wiggle room. Well worth the price and the time expended was negligible.

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Nice writeup, great photos! Thanks man!

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Guest jaimesix
me an extra 1/32" around the whole thing. Not bad.

 

AirCleaner3.jpg

 

.

 

Excellent work Zerow. Congratulations. You have materialized A+ quality finnish on those S/Us, those look incredibly clean , impressive.

 

I can see how glad you are, see your face on that air filter housing, I know that feeling, a 610 owner enjoying what only the few can....a Datsun thing.

 

The EMPI parts suit well, and definitely save a lot of money when compared to other S/U made air filter housing and elements.

 

Can't wait to see your 610 in propia persona. Working on mine too. Soon I will be knocking at your door with my 610....mini meeting in southern california.

 

Keep cool.

 

Jaime.______________________________________________________

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What...no Home Depot?? :lol:

 

This is great info...thanks!!

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Excellent work Zerow. Congratulations. You have materialized A+ quality finnish on those S/Us, those look incredibly clean , impressive.

 

I can see how glad you are, see your face on that air filter housing, I know that feeling, a 610 owner enjoying what only the few can....a Datsun thing.

 

The EMPI parts suit well, and definitely save a lot of money when compared to other S/U made air filter housing and elements.

 

Can't wait to see your 610 in propia persona. Working on mine too. Soon I will be knocking at your door with my 610....mini meeting in southern california.

 

Keep cool.

 

Jaime.______________________________________________________

 

Thanks for the comments, guys. I guess I didn't see the smile on my face as they were going together. I love when something that was a mere thought comes out looking better than what I could have drawn (or even bought). Don't get me wrong, I've seen some nicely refinished SU air filter housings (WICKED JESTER, you know I'm talking about yours...:P) But the cost was what impressed upon me the most. K&N filters are hella-nice, but equally as expensive. Living out away from the city, in the dust and grime of Riverside/Moreno Valley. I don't care if the K&Ns are washable, it's just a hassle I didn't want to deal with. I will be doing a followup to this when I need new filters, I think I know of a set that may just work.

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What...no Home Depot?? :lol:

 

This is great info...thanks!!

 

Only for the Milwaukee bit. And the cool sano-looking hardware on the SUs. That took me two trips to two separate Home Depots. Stainless would have been nice, but that's for another time.

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Maybe I am missing something,but where did you get the sub stacks from? I didn't see it mentioned if you already had them,or bought them at the same time as the filters. What do you do with the valve cover breather? Also what did you do with the float bowl breathers from each carb?

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Maybe I am missing something,but where did you get the sub stacks from? I didn't see it mentioned if you already had them,or bought them at the same time as the filters. What do you do with the valve cover breather? Also what did you do with the float bowl breathers from each carb?

 

To answer your questions:

 

1 (third sentence down)

 

Whatever air filters I would have chose, I would have added a nice set of Stub Stacks (for extra air flow) They retail for $32.95 each

Available through Advance Performance Technology of Riverside California. http://www.aptfast.com

http://www.aptfast.com/Images_Parts/.../2xMSS4_KN.jpg (NOTE: Two screws per assembly with the K&N filters; the one for the rear carb would be a bish to remove...)

 

 

2) Valve cover breather is your choice, either use a separate filter (available from K&N or Spectre, not mentioned; or (and I have to post a followup after my engine is actually in the sedan) The filters have a spot that can be removed (see picture 6, on flange with bracket), drilled and added. I plan to place the stub on both filters, just so its balanced.

 

3) My float bowl breathers (at the time) were unavailable for the photo. I am wanting the SSS style from the Nissan Motorsports catalog, but thats a dream. I have the small stubby looking ones, just not in the photo. They clear the filters. I was going to try something with some stainless braided lines, but that seems to be something for future photos.

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So just so I am clear I need 2 sub stacks for a HS4 carb,correct. They appear to be $27.95 each through APT. I also need these 4 filters(two of each). The web links don't work anymore for me at least. Also I need a valve cover breather,and float bowl breathers. What do these float bowl breathers look like? Pics would help. As far as the part you are talking about on the air filter base you said those can be used as well. Are these the short stub of aluminum coming out of the back plate,or am I missing something?

 

Unfortunetly I don't have a local VW shop around so I need part number for sure so I can order online. I tried using the stock air box assembly,but that is a no go.

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So just so I am clear I need 2 sub stacks for a HS4 carb,correct. They appear to be $27.95 each through APT. I also need these 4 filters(two of each). The web links don't work anymore for me at least. Also I need a valve cover breather,and float bowl breathers. What do these float bowl breathers look like? Pics would help. As far as the part you are talking about on the air filter base you said those can be used as well. Are these the short stub of aluminum coming out of the back plate,or am I missing something?

 

Unfortunetly I don't have a local VW shop around so I need part number for sure so I can order online. I tried using the stock air box assembly,but that is a no go.

 

To answer your questions:

 

Yes, you will need two stub stacks. I think the website needs updating, they were $32.95 when I bought them.

 

SAB Imports has a new website: http://sabimports.com/ I suggest calling them direct.

 

Picture 3 and Picture 5 show the stub on the base that can be removed.

 

I will post pics of the breather tube on the carburetor later.

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I just finished doing this yesterday afternoon. I will get pics of them soon. I still need to figure out what to do with the bowl vent tubes,but for now I am pretty happy. I just need the radiator back, tune the carbs better,and I should be road ready.

 

Thanks for the how to it really helped.

 

 

Chris

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Chris - is the red hatchback yours? I saw pics of it in the post you had for the air cleaner assembly for sale. If so, nice car!

 

You are welcome for the writeup. I still owe you some pics of the float bowl breather tubes. Let me get through this weekend and I will get some good shots for you.

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Yes the hatchback is mine. It is really orange in real life even though the color code says persimmon red(110). I call it orange,and so does everyone else,but maybe the years have changed it from its red to an orange color. It is stock factory paint. Pics of the bowl breathers would be great. I appreciate it.

 

 

Chris

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Chris - is the red hatchback yours? I saw pics of it in the post you had for the air cleaner assembly for sale. If so, nice car!

 

You are welcome for the writeup. I still owe you some pics of the float bowl breather tubes. Let me get through this weekend and I will get some good shots for you.

 

Any chance you have pics of the breathers yet?

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Any chance you have pics of the breathers yet?

 

Sorry about the delay:

 

100_1885.jpg

 

I might have found something better, but this is what I am running for now.

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You know what? My carbs have those already,and they also have a maybe 6" piece of vacuum line/fuel line coming of that barb that did go to the stock SSS air box base. I have just the lines coming off them and dangling up in the air. I am not sure this is the best thing to do with them,but so far it has proven fine,and I get no fuel coming out of them,YET. Thanks for the pic. You plan on just leaving the barb fitting open to atmosphere,or do you have other plans for it.

 

Chris

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You know what? My carbs have those already,and they also have a maybe 6" piece of vacuum line/fuel line coming of that barb that did go to the stock SSS air box base. I have just the lines coming off them and dangling up in the air. I am not sure this is the best thing to do with them,but so far it has proven fine,and I get no fuel coming out of them,YET. Thanks for the pic. You plan on just leaving the barb fitting open to atmosphere,or do you have other plans for it.

 

Chris

 

I would worry about them going back to the airbox. The airbox is directly above the exhaust manifold. High velocity air and fuel above a heat source is not a combination I choose to have. I will be running a piece of hose down past the frame, just in case. put a piece of coat hanger wire in them to bend them so that they stay in place. I have another option that I will be working on very soon, and posting pics. Found them at the J/Y, just ran into a snafu that needs to be worked through first...

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After some debate, the wingnut decision has been handled:

 

100_2107.jpg

 

For the sake of love, I decided on OEM Datsun downdraft air cleaner wingnuts. I had to modify my angled mounting bracket inside the carb to accept the metric threaded bolt (bolt that originally comes with the air cleaners is standard 1/4 - 20) , and I tightened a nut on it to keep the whole thing in place.

 

The original wingnut from my downdraft carb would have gone the way of the trashbin, but she has been with the car her whole life, I couldn't resist. The other was a J/Y find from a 210 I came across. New life for you, little wingnut...

 

Here are some other pics of the completed carbs, with new stainless fuel inlet lines:

 

100_2104-1.jpg

 

100_2105.jpg

 

What do you think...??

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william those carbs are sweet i really like how you did the fuel lines :thumbsup:

 

Thank You, sir. The fuel lines were almost a mistake. I gave the carbs to my wife's cousin to fab up the fuel lines. He brings them back with the lines coming up from under the carbs. I had to remind him that the head is not cross-flow, the exhaust manifold is below them. Crap. So I re-routed them the way you see it now, and what do you know, they look great.

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You know what? My carbs have those already,and they also have a maybe 6" piece of vacuum line/fuel line coming of that barb that did go to the stock SSS air box base. I have just the lines coming off them and dangling up in the air. I am not sure this is the best thing to do with them,but so far it has proven fine,and I get no fuel coming out of them,YET. Thanks for the pic. You plan on just leaving the barb fitting open to atmosphere,or do you have other plans for it.

 

Chris

Those "barbs" in early Datsun SU configurations {and MG etc} were right angle fittings sometimes with short lengths of metal tubing and were simply carb overflow vents and the tubing went through a pierced flat piece of steel attached by one [make that 2 for the rear carb] of the oil pan retaining bolts. If your carb burped, it vented to the pavement. Later politically correct version returned these overflows to the gas tank.

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I really want the set from Nissan Motorsports, as they have a long piece of tubing that does exatly as you describe, but I have found an alternative - stay tuned for further developments.

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when the carbs are installed, will those fuel lines (which look nice btw) allow you to level out the float bowls? Will they force tension and rotate the bowls like in your picture? Speaking of, how are the lines attatched to the hardline?

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when the carbs are installed, will those fuel lines (which look nice btw) allow you to level out the float bowls? Will they force tension and rotate the bowls like in your picture? Speaking of, how are the lines attatched to the hardline?

 

Unclejesse88: I balanced the carbs in the picture for pure amusement, the angle of the L20B in the engine bay is in pic 9 (from the top of the thread). The floats are level for adjustment. You can also tighten the mounting nut for the bowls if the angle is too severe.

 

The floats are the new plastic composite from Nissan Motorsports, and not the brass, which had the tendancy to bind in the float bowls.

 

The fittings are sweatted on both the hardline and the inlets on both carbs. (picture 13 shows it best)

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