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orangie

620 with SR20DET with AC

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Where did you source the rack? Price? 

 

Looks great under there :thumbup:

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Those aren't spacers. They are adapters from 9/16 thread to 5/8 and they are  a little short for my taste.   It's a rack built from a mustang  design hence the 9/16 thread.  It sounds like a common enough thread size until you go looking for hiem joints and find out they aren't made in 9/16.  I'm going to get longer adpaters.  I'm only grabbing a little over half an inch of thread.

 

I think he meant the ones between the heim and steering knuckle.
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Oh those spacers.  It's for bump steer.  For now I just threw something in there that brought the heim about the same approximate height of the stock ball joint . 

 

As for the rack and pinion, it's a semi custom rack from Chris Alston's Chassis Works.  16 inches from knuckle center to knuckle center.  Not cheap.  It was about $560.  I looked into shortening the rack that came with the engine.  The car was an S-15 from japan so the steering was on the wrong side, but I think those cars have the steering in the back of the wheel instead of the front so it might have been possible to modify that one.  I don't think it's very hard to have a rack modified, but it will take a trip to a machine shop and it won't be a power rack.

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It's been a while since I worked on the truck.  Work got busy for a couple of months.  The rear frame is painted and the axle is being assembled.  It's a narrowed Dana 44.  Currently it has 4.30 gears in the back.  I'm thinking those are going to be a little to deep, but the nice thing is I can get gears for that thing if I want to change it.  

 

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Tilt column is an "Ididit" universal GM column.  You can get them from some of the bigger online speed shops.

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Hmmm......what to do.  The turbo is closer than I would like for the brake booster diaphram.  I'd imagine it can't take any duration of heat.  I can relocate the reservoir cups and do a heat shield, but It's still closer than I would like.

 

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It's been a while since I worked on the truck.  Work got busy for a couple of months.  The rear frame is painted and the axle is being assembled.  It's a narrowed Dana 44.  Currently it has 4.30 gears in the back.  I'm thinking those are going to be a little to deep, but the nice thing is I can get gears for that thing if I want to change it.  

 

a8o5ve.jpg

 

1S4Ok0.jpg

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It's been a while since I worked on the truck.  Work got busy for a couple of months.  The rear frame is painted and the axle is being assembled.  It's a narrowed Dana 44.  Currently it has 4.30 gears in the back.  I'm thinking those are going to be a little to deep, but the nice thing is I can get gears for that thing if I want to change it.  

 

a8o5ve.jpg

 

1S4Ok0.jpg

 

this is such a sweet build.  I could never imagine and do what your doing. Looks so frickin bad!  Just so damm clean.....

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Power steering? A/C? What are these luxuries you are talking about?

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No power steering. The AC compressor makes things difficult to fit any kind of steering. 

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Sorry if this thread takes forever to load, but somebody asked for picture and you got them.

 

New for this week. Welded a modified t2 to t3 turbo adapter.  Cut the t3 end off and made it tilt about 12 degrees towards the engine.  The lift and tilt added over and inch of clearance towards the master cylinder.  Of course I had to modify the down pipe and it really looks like a Franken Pipe now.  

 

As a side note, when you flip a turbo upside down, you have to reclock the center section and the intake housing, which in turn messes up the mounting point if you want to run the internal wastegate.  Two option there, either modify the housing or run an external wastegate.  

 

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The center section has to be rotated 180 degrees for the oil return and feed line.  The return line only uses gravity to send the oil back to the pan so it has to be on the bottom.  Taking the exhaust section off was a PITA.  They kind of get frozen in there over time.

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ive looked through the build thread and I was just wondering what mods were done to make the wildwood master cylinder work with the 620 booster? if any.

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It doesn't take much to get the Willwood mc to work.  Just change out the brake line fitting from metric to pipe.  I made all new lines anyway, but if you have enough length on your lines, you can just cut the end off and reflare it.

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Somebody was selling one with some adapters, but they wanted a couple hundred for it.  The mc itself runs about$120.

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My version of the e-brake.  The cables can handle a pretty good bend without binding.  The key is the part that connects the two cables together.  I used an after market cable, but the stock one could have been used. There's no picture of it but the connections for the cable into the rear brake housing has an angled bracket that I pulled off the original cable.  I had a set of the original cables from the Isuzu Dana 44 and the rear brake housing cable mounts are identical.

 

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Fuel lines added to the side.  I put the holes in the body supports a long time ago.  The holes were started with a plasma cutter, than shaped and elongated with a dremel tool. Everything had to be lined up with a straight rod which was kind of tough since the frame rails kind of curve.  The second shot looks like the fuel rails go up, but they actually bend around the frame since it starts to curve in.  Whew!  Stainless 3/8 tubing is PITA to work with!  I had to bend it once I threaded the holes.  Not completed yet are the grommets I'm going to stuff around the holes.  

 

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Drive shaft is in, exhaust is hung (not sure what's up with the welder and stainless steel), spare tire mount/crank is in and fabricated a bracket for one of the e-brake cable (also insulated the cable from heat near the muffler)

 

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Home made wastegate piping.  I gave up on using the factory internal wastegate.  It just was getting to be too tight a fit.  FYI, you can rotate the T-fitting coming out the side of the valve cover on the SR engine.  Put a long tube in it for leverage. 

 

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Still debating this one.  I need to put the heat exchanger for the water to air intercooler somewhere and the front really has no room for it, so I'm thinking about putting some vents in the hood.  Don't mind the spray paint on the hood.  I have another hood to install.

 

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I mocked up the intercooler piping and it's starting to get pretty tight.  The thing in the blue tape is a water to air heat exhanger.  In the bottom left of the pic is the heat exchanger for the water to air heat exchanger.  There a big hole in the innter fender to pull air through.  Looks like something from 80's now where you can't see the bottom of the engine bay.

 

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