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orangie

620 with SR20DET with AC

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Not sure what I'm doing for a fuel pump.  I know I don't like external fuel pumps.  They're noisy.  I'm also not a fan of fuel surge tanks.  It's a patch.  I'm looking for a fuel injection tank from either a later truck or I may opt to have Rock Valley Auto fabricate a custom stainless steel tank with an "in tank" pump. something like a Walbro 255.  That's pretty far off in the distance yet.  I'm pulling the body off to restore the rest of the frame and installing a Dana 44 (which still needs to be narrowed) and that will come after I figure out the rack and pinion steering and moving the transmission tunnel up 2 1/2 inches.

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Just thought I'd throw that out there ! I have  had walbro on a car and had to run a regulator  ,with stock  zx 90psi. you can leave off,  and factory regulator handles all that its pushes , also truck has not ever lost suction with external pump ,my car does if has less than 1/8 tank  and I have a couple different surge tanks in mind , sounds like you are going a bit out there on more performance than I do , I like rear end idea and wanted to go there with buddies red truck , but he spent too much having Rays wheels made six lug , I do more stock motors and only go( T28 555 inj if cust needs moar). like s15.they run fine and still have bottom end power for street .

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Well the trans tunnel is just about complete.  A word of caution, don't weld longer than a quarter inch stich.  That stock sheet metal is really thin and warps easily.  I have a couple of welds about an inch long and it flattened the tunnel a little in that area.  It's not real obvious and I'm going to try something different with this truck.  I want to spray a bedliner on the floor so small warps won't be noticeable anyway.

 

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Well the trans tunnel is just about complete. A word of caution, don't weld longer than a quarter inch stich. That stock sheet metal is really thin and warps easily. I have a couple of welds about an inch long and it flattened the tunnel a little in that area. It's not real obvious and I'm going to try something different with this truck. I want to spray a bedliner on the floor so small warps won't be noticeable anyway.

 

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Thanks for the info will come in handy when I start doing the floors in mine have to redo my trans tunnel and drivers side floor.

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Well the trans tunnel is just about complete.  A word of caution, don't weld longer than a quarter inch stich.  That stock sheet metal is really thin and warps easily.  I have a couple of welds about an inch long and it flattened the tunnel a little in that area.  It's not real obvious and I'm going to try something different with this truck.  I want to spray a bedliner on the floor so small warps won't be noticeable anyway.

 

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Pep Boys has a bed liner called Herculiner,its cheap you can roll it on to.A gallon of it costs like 90.00 with the roller and it works real well.

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NIce! We have similar set up! I have to cut my floor out as well.

 

Good idea with the ac, and powersteering. keep in mind, the factory steering bar thing does not fit as well. So this "upgrade" should be looked into when swaping sr20det.  I had to run a external wastegate to clear it.

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I'm going to probably have to run an external waste gate as well.  I'm using a top mount turbo manifold and there is no room for hooking up the internal bypass. 

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I just cut a hole into the factory manifold and heat sheild, brazed in a pipe, and welded on a 32mm flange. DONE!

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You can mount stock waste gate with stock rod to head where two holes are , you need to re-weld mount to diaphragm , I usually get a 6 oz. cup full of water and submerge diaphragm and weld the part out of water to homemade slotted bracket , if you want near stock system ,runs fine for street car.[url=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Alleycatgarage/media/104_2027.jpg.html]104_2027.jpg[

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Who's intake manifold is that?  The linkage on the turbo of my car sits just about on the valve cover and my turbo is farther back with  a lightly rotated angle so the intake of the turbo points  towards the left headlight.

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The ex. is some Ebay cast one , log type semi like stock for a t3/4 , that I welded adapter for T28/25 stock turbos at a slight angle (fits 610 and truck I believe ,not 510 ,too close), I did not want a plate on waste gate on bottom of manifold to come loose so I welded a plug in it , forever will need internal wastegate T28 type.Also got fake intake local here polished ..[url=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Alleycatgarage/media/104_1683-1.jpg.html]104_1683-1.jpg

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Got a new rack from Chassis works and this one looks like it's going to work.  Still have some issues to iron out.  The steering angle is high, but it feels okay (no binding).  The column slopes at 22 degrees and the link to the rack slopes at 51 degrees, so something like 29 degrees which like the limit for that style universal.  Clearances are tight by the u-joint  and the pinion part of the rack.

 

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The mount for the rack and pinion is done.    There was no point in making a really beefy mount since the crossmemeber is so dinky.  I think if it was a power rack I would have beefed up the whole crossmember and tied it to the frame. 

 

As far as the steering column goes,  I added an extension piece to the pinion to clear the engine better and that gave me clearance but it also made the steering angle just a shade steeper, my universal joint is binding.  That should be easy enough to remedy though.  There are double links that can handle about 60 degrees.

 

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Did you run this manifold in a 620?   I like using the stock wastegate, but I don't think that manifold would fit in the truck since the brake cylinders are closer.  I've seen another style manifold that pushes the turbo towards the front and rotated out that would probably work if you're not running a power steering pump.

You can mount stock waste gate with stock rod to head where two holes are , you need to re-weld mount to diaphragm , I usually get a 6 oz. cup full of water and submerge diaphragm and weld the part out of water to homemade slotted bracket , if you want near stock system ,runs fine for street car.[url=http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Alleycatgarage/media/104_2027.jpg.html]104_2027.jpg[

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I landed up getting the cast style manifold.  It was actually cheaper than a Tial external was gate, but that meat having to make a custom downpipe.

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It's a tight fit, but not as bad as it seems in the picture.  I can can my finger tip in by the steering link, to the side of the engine there's about 3/4 of an inch and around the back about an inch to the firewall.

 

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Interior is just starting.  Tilt column in place and I landed up using three u-joints.  The mandated and mounting point and used a firewall mount pivot

 

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Found a solution for the gas tank.   Aeromotive came out with what they are calling a "Stealth" fuel system.  Put a 3.25 inch hole in the tank and it has a gasket that can seal up to a quarter inch of tank ribbing.  Just don't put the hole where I did if you want to use the stock sending unit and not have to notch one of the bed support rails.  Instead move the hole over to the next set of ribs. Don't take my advice as holy either.  Test fit before you cut!  Pull the sending unit all the way up (you can peep at it through the fill hole)  It moves quite a bit toward the center of the tank.  I misjudged the distance.

 

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Most of the brake lines are in.  Just need to get the rears done.  The clutch line is the only one the runs over the top.  If you really wanted to clean up that area, it's just as easy to have routed that one down on the cross member.  I found this stuff from Fed Hill that uses a copper nickel blend for corrosion resistance.  This stuff is great to work with.  It double flares easy and is easy to bend.  I don't think I will ever use a stainless brake line again.  

 

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The suspension is finally complete.  Every part has been modified at least slightly to get everything to fit.  I hope it all works when the car finally hits the road.  The original sway bar was cut and drilled so it may be a little stiffer than the original.  It made for a slightly offset mount to the lower control arm and without the tension rods it makes the lower control arm want to rotate.

 

I moved the control arms up independently to see how the sway bar will react and it looks okay, although the heim joints have a bit more angle than I would like.   

 

 

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nice project you got going. can't wait to see the end result!

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The suspension is finally complete.  Every part has been modified at least slightly to get everything to fit.  I hope it all works when the car finally hits the road.  The original sway bar was cut and drilled so it may be a little stiffer than the original.  It made for a slightly offset mount to the lower control arm and without the tension rods it makes the lower control arm want to rotate.

 

I moved the control arms up independently to see how the sway bar will react and it looks okay, although the heim joints have a bit more angle than I would like.   

 

 

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this is a beutiful front end. all the modern niceness with a simple clean placement. good job on this great build

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I'm loving this build and wanting to see more!  Could you please share more information on your steering setup?  Where did you get that amazing column?  Do you have part numbers for the rack and column?  I see you had the power steering box earlier in the build, but then decided to go with rack and pinion.  Was this just to make room for the swap, or is there a performance advantage to the rack and pinion?  This is my favorite build currently on here, please keep me updated!

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The column is an Ididit tilt unit.  I like the column, but it has no provision for a column lock or a key.  I think a tilt unit from a 720 would have worked.  

 

The original plan was power steering, but I couldn't get the cross link the way I wanted it.  The droopy centerlink just looked sloppy so the only other steering option I could find was a custom rack and pinion.  This wasn't for performance, but you usually get more road feel with a rack and pinion.  There's no rubber mounting for the rack or any kind of rag link so I may get too much road feel and need to add a damping link.

 

This whole steering setup is only because I insist on having AC on this car.  That turbo setup takes up a lot of room in the engine bay.

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Thanks for the info. I was wondering about the ignition switch and turn signals. I bet some street rod site makes a lot for that column. I'm swapping an L67 from a Grand Prix GTP into mine so clearance is a concern.I'll be watching your build for ideas and inspiration.

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Nice build. I too would like to install a steering rack in a 620 for better feel and possibly use a power assist unit.

 

What is the purpose of the large spacers on the tie rod ends.

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Those aren't spacers. They are adapters from 9/16 thread to 5/8 and they are  a little short for my taste.   It's a rack built from a mustang  design hence the 9/16 thread.  It sounds like a common enough thread size until you go looking for hiem joints and find out they aren't made in 9/16.  I'm going to get longer adpaters.  I'm only grabbing a little over half an inch of thread. 

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