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orangie

620 with SR20DET with AC

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I'm new to the forum, but I've followed a few SR20DET swaps here and another forum.  I was just wondering if anybody ever pulled that combination I mentioned in the tittle, an SR20DET, power steering and AC.  There's a few places I can see where it's going to get tight, by the power steering box and in front of the radiator trying to fit and condensor, intercooler and a big radiator.

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Not yet.  The engine is still sitting on a stand and the 280zx power steering box is still in the wrapper.  I will start posting "before" pics soon.  This is still in the planning stages.  I'm not  opposed to making my own brackets, but stuff like that takes forever.  If it's going to be a choice between power steering and ac, then ac is going to win.  Above 100 degrees can start in May on go on until October.

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It all fits providing I can get the 720 suspension and steering to work.  It's tight is an understatement, but it's worse than it looks.  Most of the mounts on the SR20DET can be shaved down about a quarter of an inch to gain more clearance against the frame.  The steering box will need a different type of U-joint as the one in picture will bind against the control arm, but at this point having power steering and AC is plausible.


 

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I hope you can get it all to fit, as I've been wondering the same thing.  It's the main concern that holds me back from having a swap done.  Need an AC in HI.

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I'm pretty sure it will fit fine.  The closest point is the ac compressor pulley to the frame.  If I don't get enough clearance, I can always notch the frame.  Where in Hawaii are you at? I grew up in Mililani.

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I hope you can get it all to fit, as I've been wondering the same thing.  It's the main concern that holds me back from having a swap done.  Need an AC in HI.

I live in Mililani.

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Wow, small world!  My folks still live there.  

 

As for the car, still working on getting the steering linkage to fit.  This is turning out to tougher than I expected.  I'm having to get a crash course on designing steering systems.  The mustang II clip is starting to look more atractive.  I need to take some measurements and see how feasible that is.

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Okay so it's been a while after trying to get a power  rack and pinion to fit and deciding getting the rack in wasn't going to be so bad, but connecting it up to the steering while was going to be a nightmare unless you go to a top mount turbo....maybe still an option if I can't get the 720 suspension and steering to work.  It's going to take remounting the power steering box and idler arm out about half an inch and a completely redesigned centerlink.  Using the 720 tie rods might be made to work if you move the power steering box and idler arm as far back as you  can mount it, but I'm not sure how that's going to work with the 720 sway bar and the lower control arm stabilizer bar or whatever that thing is called.

 

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I forgot to mention the centerlink is just mocked up in hollow metal, the final version will be solid except for the outside ends.  I think those will be 7/8 or 1 inch .12 thickness DOM tubing.  If you compare the first photo, the original 720 centerlink is about and inch narrower and the tie rods had to be moved in about 1.5 inches.  The 720 must have the lower control arms mounted slightly wider than on the 620.

 

Also in the first photo is the angle 62.3.  That's the line the tie rods need to follow and the distance changes with respect to the height.  The width I calculated assumes a 22mm height above the lower control arm swivel point.

 

Tomorrow I need to check what the tire clearance will be like into the power steering box.

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I checked tire clearance today and its okay as long as I use a tire no bigger than 26" in diameter.  I did find something I didn't like about the balljoint angles.  Both top and bottom are almost maxed out.  This was checked at a height.of a little less than a fist of clearance between the tire and the fender.  The top is a no brainer since I am using  modified SPC Performance control arms parts.  The end plate can simply be flipped and I think it should be okay.  I'll have to find a solution for the bottom.

 

 

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It gets even crazier.  I didn't like how tight the compressor was next to the power steering box so I cut the motor mounts and moved the engine up an inch and about three quarter of an inch to the right (passenger side).  The mounts are only welded slightly better than a tack weld and will need a final pass.  Now there is about 3/4 inch clearance on both side of the engine, maybe a bit more by the alternator since it has no belt tension set on the pulley.

 

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I think you need to look at Borgsen steer joints and oil pan should go in between sway bar and tie rod about 3/4 ' clearance on both , done it and feel no need for pwr. steering ,did red truck and was fine ,stock steering and hot pipe piping running on top of steer column , ac sounds great but really tight , I am installing ac on 610 sr20det project at a later time just planning at this time.Have oics never loaded to bucket.

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Power steering is not a necessity, but ac in the Phoenix summers is.  Unless you find a new place to mount the compressor, the original steering box and the ac take up almost the same position.  This is a ton of work just for ac.  In hindsight, it would have been easier to add another vehicles front cross member/suspension.  I just couldn't find one narrow enough.

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Change of plans. The centerlink style was a bit clunky for my taste. Decided on a manual rack and pinion instead. This is going to take a top mounted Turbo. More pics to come.

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Maybe a top mount and maybe check out other smaller ac pumps at junk yard ect. ,the cabin on the truck is smaller than a 240sx ,does not need big ass pump , I am trying to re-install on a 610 with out problems of truck steer box.

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That looks like a stock 630 centerlink.  I'm running a 720 front suspension with coilovers.  The stock sway bar will have to be modified a little to get it to work.

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It is stock and fits , if I did another one I may cut open center of trans tunnel add 6" of metal the whole way to allow rear of trans to go higher ,mine was pressing against tunnel a little , also one piece drive shaft ,red truck and has been driving two years, drives fine. Tried to make stock looking install.

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What trans are you running, the stock 5 speed?  I moved my engine up about an inch and a quarter and to the right about three quarters of an inch.  That move is going to require me raising the tunnel which what I'm starting to work on right now.  I cut the top off and I'm going to add about two and half inches.  I also made a box to move the engine back so it sits about a half inch into the firewall.

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I'm curious to see the AC work. I don't think I'll ever need power steering unless I get some crazy track day suspension alignment going.

But AC is nice

 

There is a kit for roadster SR swaps that relocates and mounts a smaller Alt. Might be worth investigation

 

Have you considered Acura NSX electric power steering? Am I making that up?

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The motor was all stock , never split motor and trans, stock alt. real short belt to pull in  ,did not cut firewall and left x member and mounts on chassis all stock ,cut motor side mounts and re-created with plates about 1 " back mounting holes and yes slid over 5/8s to right and trans x member also, and boxed in you can see L.side in pic. give up on power steering drives fine with 235x40x18s   ,just my 2cts , like top mount will make so no slide to right side. AC should not be very hard,Hit with email for more info if want to.

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Not so worried about power steering right now. It does change my choice of wheels up front. With manual steering I want to keep the front to 205s. I think the rack and pinion I'm putting in can be upgraded with a piston assist. It's a Sweet 16.5 rack. Seriously, the manufacturer's name is Sweet.

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Hey what's up ? keep posting your project ! it will keep moving fwd. also what pump for fuel ? I use 280zx with factory mount if you find one in JY. and 5/16 line on stocker turbo, come on Orangie , I also am trying to finish one ! 610.

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