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Brakes pump up but....


d510addict

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I did the disc brake conversion by Mklotz and was finishing up today but I cannot get my brakes proper. I used a new 3/4" M/C from a late model 620 with a disc drum setup as well as everything recommended by him for the conversion minus the bias adjuster. I bleed my brakes starting with the longest line in the front, and after bleeding all lines at the wheels and at the M/C I have no brakes still. They pump up but after a few seconds of not holding the brakes the brakes fade to nothing or very close to it. I see no leaks anywhere and I cant hear anything leaking. Is there a method to bleeding the lines? Is this most likely caused by air in the lines still? Help would be much appreciated as I don't feel like taking 4:30 am bike rides all week long.

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yeah, once you get some fluid pumping thru the master it should be fine, or has been for me in the past.

 

Then re-install. bleed like stated above.  careful not to get any brake fluid on the paint under the hood :D

Wait there is supposed to be paint under the hood? I thought patina was the norm....

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It doesn't sound like you bled the rear brakes.  Since you broke open the line to install the m/c, you have to bleed the rears too.  I'm pretty sure on the 521 the line to the rear runs down the pass side......so the longest line would be to the driver's side rear.....so that's where you'd want to start.  D-rear, P-rear, P-front, then D-front. 

 

Bench bleeding the m/c is to get all the air out.  This can not be done by pressing the brake pedal since it does not bottom out the piston.  You can do it in the truck.  Use a rod or long screwdriver to push the piston all the way in.  Obviously, move the pushrod out of the way.

 

Do the m/c first. This should fix your prob if your rears were working well and adjusted correctly before.

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Why does the pedal not bench bleed? I did it attached to my car, but I made sure the pedal had no interference. Without the MC, I can get the pedal to hit the floor. With the MC I feel the pedal stop hard as if I am bottoming out, but Im still like an inch off the floor.

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Why does the pedal not bench bleed? I did it attached to my car, but I made sure the pedal had no interference. Without the MC, I can get the pedal to hit the floor. With the MC I feel the pedal stop hard as if I am bottoming out, but Im still like an inch off the floor.

You're right....if the m/c is bottoming out before the pedal hits the floor, it should work.  You weren't as clear about that in your post and the vast majority of vehicles out there will not bottom the m/c before hitting the floor.  I just wanted to be clear.  If his push rod is not adjusted quite right, it may not work.  Before I learned the real reason behind bench bleeding(thanks Bleach!!) I did a lot of cars without doing it.  It can be that last little bit of difference between good brakes and really good brakes. 

 

I have never bench bleed a Master since I have owned Datsuns myself.25years

I just bleed from the rear pass then work fwd to the driver side front.

adjust the manual brakes also for slop.

 

It's the longest brake line.....which is the driver's rear on the 521 and 620.  The 320 ran down the driver's side so the pass side rear is the longest.  Will it work.....sure......there's all kinds of stuff that works, but when you're trying to dot the i's and cross the t's, it's not the most correct.  A bungee cord works as a battery hold down.....right?  :)

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They need to be on top to bleed them correctly. Air rises up.

 

Some people on 510s with the bleeders on bottom removed the calipers so the bleeder is above, bleed them, then reinstall them. (I think, datto510 did that?? Been a minute since I've read his stuff can't remember)

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Ahh well at least I wasnt the only one to make the mistake lol. Well if you are mechanically inclined (which I am not, learning this stuff has been pretty tough) it wouldn't be a problem but I threw common sense out the window when I saw pictures and didn't think twice about following those.

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