Dalesun Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I was driving my truck last night. Turn onto the highway and start to accelerate. Shortly after I shift to 4th gear I start to hear this louad clicking noise. I turned off the motor and pulled of the road asap. Checked everything out on the outside of the engine and it seems fine. Started it to see wherw the noise was coming from and it seems to be coming from the front of the valve cover area behinde the timing chain. There is a consitent clicking noise that gets more frequent when give it gas. Also there is some other non-consistent pinging going on that sounds seperante from the clicking noise. Looked through the oil fill hole and couldn't see anything out of place or metal shavings. Was able to drive it a short distance back to a friends house for now. Going to pull the valve cover and cheak it out. If anone has any ideas or input that would be great. It is a 1974 620 with an L18. The motor is stock as far as I know except for a newer fuel pump that is a brass color Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Rocker arm may have come off or may just need the valves adjusted. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I would suspect valve train somewhere, pull the cam cover and take a look, its not as scary as you think Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 check valvae clerance and your timing chain...good luck. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Lash pad falling out is the most likely. Pop the cover off and it's likely laying beside the spring. Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Yup, be brave pull the valve cover and have a look. It's as basic as it gets! A 10mm socket, six bolts, you're in! Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 also need 14mm and 17 mm wrenches. One to adjust and to loosen/tighten nut on valve adjustment. Good luck. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 A large screwdriver or pry can be slipped under the cam (but not on a lobe) to pry down on the valve spring to loosen the rocker enough to slip the lash pad back in. If this is the case it may have been too loose so this won't fix it and will still need adjusting.0.010" on intake and 0.012" exhaust on a hot motor. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 go on line or watch Hainz (Banzai) video on You Tube on how to adjust Datsun L series valves. Maybe go on this site and look under How to..good luck. You can also adjust cold at .008 (intake)and .010 (exhaust). Either way keep us informed...good luck. oh yeh, post some pics b4 starting. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Thanks for all the help and info. Will be going over to a fellow ratsun fan and friend and pull the valve cover after I get out of work. I'll try to post some pics but idk if I will be able to from my phone. I'll keep you guys updated and try to get other pics of my truck up on ratsun( been slackin on that ) Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Couldn't find anywhere that has a valve cove gasket in stock. I need to be able to drive my truck tomarrow to get to work. Was wondering if anyone knows of a place in Eugene, OR that might have one in stock. Already called Orileys, autzone, kinects, ESP, Brooks, and lithia nissan. Also if it comes down to it how much oil will leak out if I used the old gasket for a day or would that just not at all be a good choice? Would only be doing about 30 miles on it. Quote Link to comment
Silky_Johnson Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I've opened up the valve cover and reused the gasket before without any issues. At worst you might get a little dribble, and if it does that, you can drive your truck until you get a new gasket. I don't think it's that big of a deal compared to your valvetrain problems. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I reuse the Felpro valve cover gasket all the time. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I reuse the Felpro valve cover gasket all the time. ^ I've had mine off and on probably 30 times and it just barely started leaking. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Best to take care not to tear the old one. Use a blunt table knife and take your time. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 yeh, mine finally lly gave out after like 3 years, but I think it's because that was fault by getting it caught on one of the lines. Just make sure you glue the valve cover, instead of the engine. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I meant glue the gasket with gasket sealer on valve cover and not the head. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Removed my valve cover and the exaust and intake valve leash were off on the #1 cylinder. Removed the spark plug from that cylinder and it was getting tight and loose then back to tight then loose. Once we got the spark plug out it was all kind of mest up. Electrode was bent all the way to the side and the piece of metal that bends over it ( foget the name ) was bent almost straight up. Threads have a decent amount of shavings around it and the top of the piston looks damaged too. : ( Would upload some pics but idk if I can from my phone. I know these would really help Any input on this is greatly apreciated Thanks Quote Link to comment
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