Dzaster Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I've recently swapped out the modified rear leaves in my wagon to something Flex-Form had on file from Ratsun member Son_of_a_Datsun_Guy's order. The thought of lugging around my family (once the restore is done ;)) did not sit well with me. See pic below for the kink in stock 510 leaf. Before: After: Here's my dilemma, I've stumbled upon a rear disk conversion kit for the wagon with what I think are brackets fabbed by jesusno2--which I do want. I've been told that I'll be needing 2" lowering blocks to clear the e-brake lever of the leaf spring. Searched a bit and found most people put together there own blocks, wedges, and u-bolts (i.e. here and here). Wondering if anyone knows of (link be cool too :baby: ) a rear lowering kit for 510 wagon, 2". Also wondering if I were to get 2" blocks and cut it with like 5 or 6 degrees of angle to help with the diff slap, would I be still be sitting 2" lower or little higher than 2", thus possibly not clearing the e-brake levers. Lastly, how about some decently priced in-stock U-bolts for 2" blocks? The U-bolts in the first post of THIS thread is out of stock. Has anyone tried THESE? My only reservation is its 10" and there is a reference in the specs of "-18". Not sure what the -18 is in reference too. My local NAPA has the 9" ones but are $20 a piece--last resort. Anyways, thanks in advance for any help offered up, suggestions/opinions are welcomed as well. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I would not run blocks... increase axle wrap. Only matters if your running a high torque motor like a KA i guess. How much are those custom leafs ?? My own setup cost like $250 ... im curious if its cheaper for my friend to just get custom leafs. You can't use those u-bolts, the 510 axle is 2" diameter. The 2.5" wide ones won't work !! The out of stock ones I have cut down on my goon right now...they're the only ones i've seen at 2" diameter. You can get them custom made locally at some shops usually ... spring shops? some truck place maybe ? That is the lowest you can go with a stock goon without bottoming the driveshaft ... is your drive tunnel raised? Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Think I paid $500 shipped for the springs. Everything I've been seeing has the 510 axle using 2.5" U-bolts. The "out of stock" ones in the link spec a 2.5" width as well. I guess I need to recheck my stockers on now. I'm not sure if its the KA with its speculative transmission and custom driveshaft, but with the old springs it sat as low as it did in the "before" pic, and had no driveshaft rub and no diff slap. Could also be the kink put in leaves created such an angle it cleared--bad for U-joint I'm sure. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Jesusno2 has stopped making rear disc brackets. Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I understand that, I've been in touch with him (jesusno2), but it's his brackets I'm pretty sure, and the guy I'm picking it up from is pretty sure too--although he got them from someone else on Ratsun. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Think I paid $500 shipped for the springs. Everything I've been seeing has the 510 axle using 2.5" U-bolts. The "out of stock" ones in the link spec a 2.5" width as well. I guess I need to recheck my stockers on now. I'm not sure if its the KA with its speculative transmission and custom driveshaft, but with the old springs it sat as low as it did in the "before" pic, and had no driveshaft rub and no diff slap. Could also be the kink put in leaves created such an angle it cleared--bad for U-joint I'm sure. Sorry, my bad they are 2.5" ... been a while. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 So your adding two inch blocks to your already lowered leaf springs? Joel Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I have a set of 2" wedged blocks with less then 50 miles on them, I can mail them for $25. Let me know. Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Im considering it Joel, yes. I'm getting a pretty good deal on a bit of brake parts that id like to make work so I guess if I have to I can raise the driveshaft tunnel elevation. Think I may give those u-bolts a try and pick up some 2.5" blocks and give it a 5-6" degree angle to angle down the pinion. graveltrap, I've PM'd you. Can you also tell me what angle the wedge is? Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 The link in first post to the Procomp U-bolts from Summit are square type, not rounded. No work. NAPA does have them in 8.25" length for $15 a piece. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 um modified leaf spring or destroyed leaf springs.jesus that stock leaf is garbage.....block kits come with u bolts ...there like 30 bucks.......plan on tunnel mods ....looks good though...angled blocks are only for adjusting pinion angle ....u wont net enough gains to make a difference with bottoming out... pretty sure sodg had slap issues with just the leafs ....two inch blocks, even degreed,I don't think u will gain what u need Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 those stock leafs are destroyed..... two inch blocks even degreed will still cause slap... sodg i thought was having slap issues with no blocks and ended up tubbing his tranny tunnel....just go to napa or any parts store and buy any blocks, they have u bolts in them for thirty bux ...or go to a truck supply place and they can make them but not cheap....degreed blocks are usually to correct pinion angle .....i dont think it will fix your issue thank u ratsun for being a slow piece of shit and not posting my comment till i posted the redux ...sorry double post... Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I wonder if I'll encounter slap with the little bit of lowering I got from these new springs. Have yet to drive the car. The lowering kits are generally 3" width U's--I went through and measured a couple parts stores. However, the rear disc conversion brackets I was looking at, the dude didn't get the bearing spacers. I'm going to go with the only brackets that I'm able to find still in production and use the 200sxMaxima brake parts. Will end up being a couple hundred bucks more, but no need for the 2" blocks and parts will all be fresh. For axle-wrap, I've considered a few options, and right now I'm leaning towards a torque arm. Flex-form site says they make them as well, but I'm not sure I'm that bent on saving a few lbs. Another thought was using some torque dampers, but that would be harder to design without disturbing normal suspension travel. Here's an example I found that was said to be factory Ford Explorer. Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted February 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 A friend of mine suggested I check out a local spring shop--Hawaii Spring Supply. To my surprise their custom U-bolts were like half the price of the NAPA's prefabbed stuff--which I also I bought. These customs are more what is needed for width and length. I borrowed the rendering with 2" block U-bolt specs from cl72wagon's post HERE. Thank you cl72wagon for sharing that. I was able to also get from the spring supplier 2" drop blocks with built in 2* wedge/angle. The whole set came out to roughly $75. I also went ahead and picked up the wagon rear disk brake conversion. I have the missing bearings spacers being mailed out to me by jesusno2. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment
a.d._510_n_ok Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 good info^^^^ - thanks!!!! Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Got the kit installed this weekend. Pleased with the results of the lowering block and composite spring combo. However, the 2 degree angle of the wedge block did not prevent the differential from rubbing on hard acceleration. Still need to install the air shocks and fab up some t-bars. From there I'll see about editing the drive shaft tunnel. Quote Link to comment
RMS Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 has anyone used a subaru gl loyal wagon drive shaft to overcome the need to modify the tunnel? the ea81 drive shaft has the same slip joint and pinion flange as the 510 but is two piece with a steady bearing and a smaller diameter tube. Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 has anyone used a subaru gl loyal wagon drive shaft to overcome the need to modify the tunnel? the ea81 drive shaft has the same slip joint and pinion flange as the 510 but is two piece with a steady bearing and a smaller diameter tube. Interested in this. I want to lower my wagon's ass without cutting the hell out of the tunnel. Quote Link to comment
BayArea510 Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Interested in this. I want to lower my wagon's ass without cutting the hell out of the tunnel. I did it the Ratty way, used the Belltech 6100 kit from local auto parts store . Its a 2in drop block but the U bolts are 3.25. The problem is with these wider U bolts.They will taper after you squeeze (which requires the grip of a Gorilla) them thru the first shackle bracket holes but will no align with the second bracket holes. I had to reshape the u bolts almost like the shape of a support ribbon. (Write up to follow wihth pics) on how to modify bolts easily. If I remember correctly stock U bolts were 3. Summit sells a 2 inch kit for 2.75 axle dia. But its cast iron blocks part# SUM-G740 but can't confirm if its a straight bolt on or also requires mods. Quote Link to comment
BayArea510 Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 No axle slap and a nice looking stance. The diff stop bumper however has no wiggle room at all. As it is almost touching the tunnel. Quote Link to comment
Loren O Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 has anyone used a subaru gl loyal wagon drive shaft to overcome the need to modify the tunnel? the ea81 drive shaft has the same slip joint and pinion flange as the 510 but is two piece with a steady bearing and a smaller diameter tube. I'm interested in this too. Please post more about this,with pics if possible. Thanks! -Loren Quote Link to comment
RMS Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 the goon's stock shaft is 49 in long with a diameter of 3in. the subaru shaft is 55.5in in length with a 2in diameter. the idle bearing is 20 in from the front leaving 35.5in to the diff. bolt to bolt on the bearing is 6.5in Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 fyi most tranny tunnel mods also incorporate clearancing for the housing to keep it from banging the floor so if u made a two piece work then u would still have a housing that banged the floor in he event of lows are had... Quote Link to comment
Dzaster Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 ^^^^^ That pretty much what I found when I lowered mine. Its the differential output flange and connecting driveshaft flanged that hit. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 mind u I'm no expert...but its true for a truly low goon....(which is what im after..) but like i said I' m just procrastinating my project away... Quote Link to comment
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