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4wd 720. rust is natures weight reduction


.sunlover

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Earlier this week, tranny finished except for the seals, my mind wandered to what we want the gearshift to look like. Pages of amazon/eBay stamped out pos gearshifts later, my gf liked the pistol grip that looked like a gun. Hmmmm, I thought, what can be our free dollar 1 off shifter could be...

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Lol, she didn't like it, I dont blame her, so when she was unable to tell me anything she really liked, I decided to make "something cool" out of works scrap bin. I actually got this one to break loose finally. Cut it short, sanded and flapper wheeled, Drilled a hole in the base and a gearshift was created...

 

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My Dart had a plastic 'wood grain' ball on it but like everyone else in the '70s I had to get a Hurst T handle. Guess what? It was slower when power shifting and your hand grips it tight and your wrist has to flex. The slow shifting was because the T handle was  boat anchor heavy!!! The grip was wrong for any fast shifting. Eventually I got over the denial and put the factory ball back on. Ball and socket is natures most efficient way with hips and shoulders. Easy on the hand with no edges, smooth and easy to grip.

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When I get it back together and the threads tapped for the shifter, I'll show you what else I did to the interior.

 

Time to get it ready to actually drive for a long time, its like this was rebuilt for 1 trip. Bolts missing everywhere, even in the fucking drive line, not to mention my 2 tbsp of fucking gear oil in the tranny, and his assurance it was ready for a trip to Oregon city... Grrrr, anyway, first step, out with the wtf, and in with the hell yeah!

 

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My Dart had a plastic 'wood grain' ball on it but like everyone else in the '70s I had to get a Hurst T handle. Guess what? It was slower when power shifting and your hand grips it tight and your wrist has to flex. The slow shifting was because the T handle was  boat anchor heavy!!! The grip was wrong for any fast shifting. Eventually I got over the denial and put the factory ball back on. Ball and socket is natures most efficient way with hips and shoulders. Easy on the hand with no edges, smooth and easy to grip.

 

Well, don't get me wrong, I like balls in my hand as much as the next guy, but not my gfs thing.... I guess well see how this compromise works, I have what remains of the stock shifter if we come to change our references.... ;)

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Just saying the grip is important if shifting a lot. I don't know what professional race car driver's use but I bet they wear gloves and don't use skulls or pistons for knobs. :lol:  :lol: 

 

I hear ya.....

 

My shifter....

 

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My decision there, 8 ball feels so right, thats the 521 though, in this, we have to agree, time will tell if its impractical in this application. I kinda looking forward to trying it out, feels good in my hand, but it is heavy as fuck...

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I personally think the chromed shifters are retarded. my stepmoms crx has one and in the middle of summer in bend oregon I took it for a drive and burnt the living hell out of my hand just shifting into 1st gear.

 

Thanks for the compliment on my sanding job, that came out of a garbage truck with about 1000000 miles. Never chromed anything. Its bare metal and will surface rust. As far as burning myself on it, I guess it depends on if the sun hits it the 3 days a year it comes out. Just going with the rust theme it already has going on...

 

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There was the rear oil seal I changed today, but first, got my l20b flywheel and pressure plate off, new ring gear on that one :-) , you can see I had it lightened. In hindsight, I could have done a center force and monster clutch for about the same amount of cash, just had heard the old school datsun nuts raving about their shaved flywheels and matchbox dizzys... Anyway, it has a use...

 

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I got the book, so I can figure out where the loose ends and plugged hoses go. Timing, valve clearance, wiring schematic a to put everything back to stock, except the lights, I want 2 filament lights to make the driving lights light the whole lens.

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I got every light working, lost turn signals, installed CB. Front axle, flywheel, clutch tranny, mounted. CB wired, coolant and oil change, power steering fluid changed, power steering and alternator mounted, wheel changed, the cover ground to let the steering wheel rear cup through. Just waiting for the correct rear tranny seal. Started it up today, and it sounds alright. I still need to go through and hook up some vacuum hoses the PO didn't feel were necessary.

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I got every light working, lost turn signals, installed CB. Front axle, flywheel, clutch tranny, mounted. CB wired, coolant and oil change, power steering fluid changed, power steering and alternator mounted, wheel changed, the cover ground to let the steering wheel rear cup through. Just waiting for the correct rear tranny seal. Started it up today, and it sounds alright. I still need to go through and hook up some vacuum hoses the PO didn't feel were necessary.

 

You say you lost the turn signals, try cycling the 4 way switch a few times.

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You say you lost the turn signals, try cycling the 4 way switch a few times.

I've had the 4ways on quite a few times, used them to test my signals while I got all the lights working, I'll cycle them though. I should be able to fix the turn signals, no problem, not my first time chasing out electrical. I'd be happy to save a switch by cycling it though, thanks.

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I've had the 4ways on quite a few times, used them to test my signals while I got all the lights working, I'll cycle them though. I should be able to fix them no problem, not my first time chasing out electrical.

 

The reason I say to cycle them is that the turn signals go threw the 4 ways, so sometimes the circuit connections get dirty and fail when using the 4 way switch.

I have had it happen, I replaced the switch and everything worked great again, but at the time I didn't think of cycling the switch a bunch of times which might have fixed it.

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Also the switches tend to travel tooooo far when placing in the OFF position and loose contact. You could try moving it slightly toward the ON position and see if that gets them going. This is a tip that cost me 2 hours of work to figure out.

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Thanks guys, I will do. My tranny rear seal finally came in after they gave me the wrong one twice, when I gave them info for 2 different trannys, 1 at a time. The seal was identical for my 75 280z 2+2 4 speed, and my 81 720 5 speed. BTW, you're probably right about the 4ways, my turn signals worked until I used them (4ways). Even though its wet, cold, miserable, and will be dark when I get back to the truck, I'm still planning on finishing connecting the tranny to the wheels tonight.

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sunlover -

The fuzzy picture in post #41... what are we looking at here?  I think that's one of the 4X4's numerous driveshafts, but not sure.  The sealing surface looks a little rough, but not horrible. 

 

I had an early 80's Datsun 4X4 years ago.  I still hate that truck.  Ugly, slow, and driveline vibrations that were never fixed after many hours and $ thrown at the problem.

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Hmmmm, never had the urge to post how I hate someone's datsun.

 

Moving on.

 

 

I got the seal, put it in, and the driveline, so it would hold fluid, topped it off, put my other transfer case in, topped that, and found my front axle is slightly water contaminated. There is just one way to install the transfer case with the shifter still on, just about have that in, but it was cold, late, and started raining on me. I said "that's my cue". And called it a night. Hopefully its somewhat dry tonight, bugs the shit out of me having a rig in pieces, especially when I have all the parts I need. Well, everything but more gear oil to change the front axle oil. Rear axle looked like it just got a fluid change BTW.

 

 

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