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hurts donut

help! replacing the timing chain on my 82 720 4x4.

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I decided to put the new chain and stuff on, but the new chain has no marks on it? Aren't they supposed to have marks on them like a special colored link or something?

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Apparently this timing chain manufacturer sells unmarked chains? Which that is kind of stupid if you ask me but whatever. So I marked the new chain with the same marks and I can't get either chain to line up I have the valves closed and the 1st piston at TDC and the timing marks are no where near lining up. No matter what I do I can not make the timing marks on the chain match the marks on the sprockets. Are they just not supposed to match? It seems like if I put the chain on it shouldn't matter where it is positioned as long as the sprockets are in the right spot.

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watch my vid.?

The cheaper kits are mostly taiwan made chains and dont have the brite links

 

TDC the block and head.

then if old chain has the links you can put them side by side and ink pen mark the new chain

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watch my vid.?

The cheaper kits are mostly taiwan made chains and dont have the brite links

 

TDC the block and head.

then if old chain has the links you can put them side by side and ink pen mark the new chain

Yes I put ink on the new chain to match the links on the old chain. The block and head are at TDC.

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Finally figured that out, but when I was putting the timing guide back in the bolt broke so I have been working on that since 12:30. :(

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One screw extractor broke, the other didn't work, and the third one removed the broken bolt! So now I have all the new timing parts in and it looks amazing!

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You've got some fortitude captain! I always enjoy reading others efforts and it helps ease the pain that this shit doesn't only happen to me. Keep it up and it is always interesting to watch a team effort (although it is your knuckles) such as this have a happy ending.

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You've got some fortitude captain! I always enjoy reading others efforts and it helps ease the pain that this shit doesn't only happen to me. Keep it up and it is always interesting to watch a team effort (although it is your knuckles) such as this have a happy ending.

Thanks man! Really appreciate the encouragement.

 

Timing chain tensioner was pretty far gone. The guides had pretty good grooves in them too and the chain appeared to have stretched significantly.

IMG_20180102_194134117.jpg

New parts look pretty good if you ask me. Got the new tensioner squished all the way in like the picture in the FSM and managed to get the chain put in the right way, after several tries. ;)

IMG_20180102_165736995.jpg

Does this thing go on this way?

IMG_20180102_171623274.jpg

Or this way?

IMG_20180102_171630044.jpg

The picture in the book is not clear to me, but if I stare at it long enough it starts to show whatever I want. :rofl:

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IMG_20180102_171623274.jpg

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Thanks.

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I made an instructional video and I am going to place it here for anyone who stumbles upon this thread.

 

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Thanks man! Really appreciate the encouragement.

 

Timing chain tensioner was pretty far gone. The guides had pretty good grooves in them too and the chain appeared to have stretched significantly.

IMG_20180102_194134117.jpg

New parts look pretty good if you ask me. Got the new tensioner squished all the way in like the picture in the FSM and managed to get the chain put in the right way, after several tries. ;)

IMG_20180102_165736995.jpg

Does this thing go on this way?

IMG_20180102_171623274.jpg

Or this way?

IMG_20180102_171630044.jpg

The picture in the book is not clear to me, but if I stare at it long enough it starts to show whatever I want. :rofl:

Oil slinger is on backwards in picture #3.

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The oil slinger is the big metal round thing right? I have it in the picture #2 way.

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Every one I find is oriented this way...

 

P8260016.JPG

 

 

There was one on a chev and a jeep forum also facing outwards. It's to spin and throw oil away from the front cover seal.

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A terrible development.......

 

I just put a compression tester on it an turned it over with a breaker bar (yes I put a plug in the other hole so just hang on a sec). And I got nothin, should I expect nothin when I turn it over by hand like that? Also when it got to compression on #1 it hisses! Maybe I have a bunch of busted valves ?:( Would that muck up my pistons too?

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A terrible development.......

 

I just put a compression tester on it an turned it over with a breaker bar (yes I put a plug in the other hole so just hang on a sec). And I got nothin, should I expect nothin when I turn it over by hand like that? Also when it got to compression on #1 it hisses! Maybe I have a bunch of busted valves ?:( Would that muck up my pistons too?

I don't think you can do a compression test like that.... I always thought it need a few cycles to the engine to get the number on the gauge to come up properly, and I believe you want to be holding the throttle wide open while cranking....

I usually crank it over till the gauge stops....

 

The hiss is probably from the valve not sealing properly to the valve seat....

The could be carbon on the valve, a nick in the seat or valve or even a tight valve lash holding it slightly open....

 

You could probably pull the plugs out and catch a view of the valves through the spark plug hole as you rotate the engine...

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They look fine through the plug hope. I am tempted to take the head off just too have a look see as it is only 13 bolts. I just hope my blue wedge can hold the timing tensioner.

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 At the moment the crank and cam are properly aligned so turning it with the starter is not going to do any harm.

 

If there is a hissing sound on #1 on the upward stroke to TDC then you have some compression. Try again maybe your method was faulty (get a second opinion) and use the starter

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