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mntnman

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Well I haver cked 2 of mine and Datto510s(Eric's 510) cars and all had power with switch off and were the later car with the later dashes.

The way I understand the common drawingon the Haynes manual page 181 is pull the switch all the way Out to the headlight positions it puts a ground High beam swith puta ground on the relay to put 2 grounds.

 

Parking lamps are switchable power.

 

dont matter anyways long as it works I guess.

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Ok so I put new high beams in and got rid of the fog lights, pulled all the connections off and cleaned theme and my brights still stay on, they will not go to low beams, pulled relay apart and toggled that back and forth with no luck, cleeaned the ground on voltage regularor, would the 5 pin relay be the problem with a 6 pin plug, its the green wires that don't plug into a pin, would it be the grounds on the running lights, I'm at a loss and need to get it to pass safety so I can drive it for the first time on the road

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Heres whats weird. The relay defaults to Low beams, not highbeams. If the relay breaks, you simply dont get high beams (sometimes other problems). It almost seems to me that the relay is plugged into the plug backwards, but thats pretty difficult to do if I remember correctly. 

 

Which slot is the relay missing a pin?

 

Any pictures?

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So not sure how to load a pic but if I unplug relay all lights go out, looking at back of plug from left to right top three goes black red then black then red black, left to right bottom, red white then black then two green with blue stripe, I think wiring is off cause its a 5 pin relay but not sure

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all lights(well lows) go out as the relay is a just a pass thru on the normal closed contack.

pull ther light switch it grounds. Thats the way I understand it.

 

page 181 of ther haynes manual you could just jumper where the relay went to if you know the LOW wire hook up.

 

 

Unless I see the relay Im only guess and hoping this is a stock relay.

 

 

 

if headight wires look stock and not blu red splices I bet its a wrong relay or a just corrosion in the relay.

Unless you not telling us soemthing.

 

I seen a guy hook up the harness wrong under the pass side glove box and all sorts of weirds things happen

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Ok worked on it some more tested all lights and they are all good, seem like the brights just don't want to turn off at all, is there a way I can use stock light switch and high low switch and wire in a couple relays, any help please, diagrams are good if you got them

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The following colors are what I believe the wires should be.

From the fuse box, to the headlights, one side of the car, red, the other side, red with a blue stripe.

these two wires connect to the "ground" terminal in the following diagram.

headlightplug.jpg

You have probably found out by now on a 510, the ground terminal is not grounded.

The two high beam only lamps, (two terminals) and the high beam terminal on the high/low lamps have a red wire with a white stripe.  These wires go to a "Y" close to each pair of lamps on each side of the car, and then go to the headlight high/low relay.

 

The low beam terminals, one on each side of the car go to a red with a black stripe wire, and that wire goes to the headlight high/low relay.

 

The wire between the headlight high/low relay and the light switch on the dashboard is red with a yellow stripe.  

 

there is a black wire from the headlight switch that goes to a ground.  I am not sure where this wire goes to ground, but I suspect it goes to one of the bolts holding the voltage regulator to the inner fender.

 

 

With this switched ground system, if you use headlight lamps with a metal case, or reflector that is connected electrically to the headlight plug, one of two things will happen when you plug the lamps in, and put the lamp in the car.  

One thing is the high beams will all come on, because the lamp casing (reflector) is providing the ground normally made by the headlight relay.

The other thing that will happen is the power lead coming from the fuse box will be grounded, and the fuse will blow.

 

 

You say the highs do not want to turn off at all.  Does this mean you have to remove fuses, or disconnect the battery to get them to go off?

If you now have "normal" all glass headlight lamps in your car, and the high beams stay on all the time you have the red wire with a white stripe shorted to ground somewhere.  It could be to the body of the car somewhere, or there is a possibility that this red wire with a white stripe is connecting to a ground wire in the wire harness somewhere.

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So I have read a bit and from what I understand I should have power at my lights with the light switch in, I don't have any power to lights or the light fuses got power to the common fuse and running lights fuse so where to go from there to get the power to the lights

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So I have read a bit and from what I understand I should have power at my lights with the light switch in, I don't have any power to lights or the light fuses got power to the common fuse and running lights fuse so where to go from there to get the power to the lights

 

This is my experience with 510s.

Power should be at all the prongs with the switch off.

Then a ground will turn on the lights.

 

Your fuse box the light side which you have 2(laboled of fuese box cover) should have power. Now one side of the fuse holder should have power and if the fuse in these completes it to go to the other side. You can replace the fuse. just in case the ends are bad inside but look physically good.

 

the fuse box get power from the starter lug wire ,USUALLULY A THICK WHITE WIRE GOES IN TO THE FUSE BOX AND THERE IS A COPPER BUS THAT SPEADS THE POWER OUT TO VARIious SPOTS. sometimes the wires under the fuse holders break as water gets under there. You need to trace the power from the starter lug up to the fuse box ect till you loose it.

Now if fuse box was changed from another car there ia other fuse boxes that are slightly different I have seen that get power for the lights in a red /yel wire I believe( 2 i think).

 

also You need to take photos are were doing alot of guessing. Maybe the wire was changed as most people get confused from switchable ground to switchable power.

If a alamp was installed in another breacker in trouble shooting as most alarms are switchable power. so things get rewired.

 

the Common fuse has power all the time. This operates the door buzzer, dome light and cig lighter circuts. Think of your lights light the cig lighter. there power on the center. when you push the cig lighter in it Grounds thus completing the circut. same as the switchble ground with 510 lights.

 

so get your volt meter measure power at the starter lug. 12volts then work you way up to the fuse box then to the conncetors. Maybe just have a dirty plug. I assume you ohmed out the lights and they are good.

 

 

Just to let uyou know my 521 is different switchable power.

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is this red yel wire going to the fuse box?

 

Im only going by memory here. If there is a red yel wire going to the fuse box. you could flip the fuse box over to be safe to see where it goes in the fuse box. hopefull its to the light fuse.

 

I had this situaltion where I didnt have lights either. What happen I wrecked my car and Icehouse put another fuse box in there. Come to find out if zi took the red/yell wire and put it to +12volts I got lights. (I believe the light switch was pulled out)

So I noticed o that fuse box the copper thick bus line was split in 2 separating the feed to the mutltple fuses. so I took my old fuse box back and fixed the broke stuff and it work like it was supped to.

 

Since I am only reading parts of this I assume this rig was running and lights worked before. and if you changed soemthing you better let us know. Cuse Im doing alot of arm chair toruble shooting here. or if pervios owner mods are installed I dont know. Im goin by basic stock say 70 and later 510s.

 

68s and early 69s they are also kinda funky and Im not a wire expert on them.

 

 

 

 

so you got pwer to the white wire going to the fuse box. Now ck for power going to the 2 fuse holders. if you get power there then put 2 new fuses thne the power should come out the white connector comming out the fuse box.

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Hainz I am telling you not all 510s have power to the headlights at all times. Im not trying to purposefully disagree with you, but enlighten you so you dont lead people astray.  If you wish I will show you many other diagrams I have that affirm this.

 

 

mntnman pull your headlight switch out twice, then check the voltage of the red/yellow.

 

 

As far as the red/white getting grounded early, thats why I had him remove the headlight relay, it took the ground away for the red/white and red/black wires. If he had a ground problem the lights should have stayed on.

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I too think some good pictures of the headlight relay on this car would be a help.  

It could be a 510 with switchable power, or it could be that the feared "previous owner" did something known only to him.

A picture will probably enable one of us to say, "Uh, that's not stock"

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All 510s are switchable ground. Some disconnect the ground at the switch, some turn off the power at the switch.

 

My car switches the ground for hi/low, but turns the power off to turn the lights off.

 

I too want a picture of the relay.

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So to update this I fixed it with a headlight relay out of a z car from junkyard, just because the old one clicked doesn't mean its right, my guess is it wasn't the right one since it only had 5 pins on relay and 6 on plug, I'm so happy now to do the exhaust and get it registered, thanks for all the help everyone, not many people in Utah have 510s

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