The minimalist LZ22

[DatsunHooked]

Long time lurker, first time poster. I will get some pictures of my trucks up when I have a chance.

 

Reason for the post: well I feel like I can offer experience and advise concerning the LZ22 upgrade.

 

Was really easy, but there are some things I'd do diffferent( and will be doing different when I do the lz24.

 

First, I ripped the l20 out of my 77  KC 4x4. very easy pull- old dealership SAS swap. Then I took everything off the l20, and put it on the z22. No, I didn't drill any holes. No I didn't mess with the head gasket (z22 HG) other then cut the front and graft the L series up front.

 

So currently what I have-

stock non-married intake, ported agressively.

l16 exhaust manifold/header- had headers and theyy kept popping gaskets.

2 1/4 exhaust with a raptor turbo muffler

weber 32/36

matchbox dizzy

A87 head

z22 block

 

The difference? I have a much better response in partiall and full throttle then the l20, not as noticable from a dead standstill.

I have the weber with its stock jets, and I barely open it up and it purrs  and performs great. Timing is currently at 12, best performance was definately at 16 but anytime a hill came up it would ping, same wiith 14, dropping down to 10 felt like I only had 60% of the power, but it ran reliably without pinging. I now run premium gas with my timing at 12, but I haven't gone through and finished all the fine tuning still.

 

Looking back? I might drill the holes in the block (wishy washy, motor doesn't overheat or do anything funny cooling wise) But I would definately drill the head for the heating runners that go into the intake manifold. I would also use 2 inch exhaust instead of 2 1/4.

 

I built the motor as per instructions from an engine racer/builder I know locally. He sees no need to go through all the extra effort of drilling the block and HG, and with my results so far neither do I.

 

Next engine project? z24 stock bottom end, u67 head that I will grind the combustion chamber to squeeze some extra CCs, long tube stainless steel headers, hogged out intake, undecided carburator. All for my 79 KC that I wanna drop. When that ones done I got a z24 block with some forged flat tops in it. Probably slap a stock z24 head on it, port it, then use it in the 4x4 for more low end. Thinking maybe stock z24, then a small turbo that pressurizes the carb. I don't like having to rev that poor lz22 ~6K.

 

Questions? Comments? Glad to be part of the club.

 

TLDR- Take a stock z22, use z22 HG and cut front off, run l series head and all timing components, Enjoy.

 

I should add that I would use a U67 head and open it up a bit to lower the CC, which I will be doing shortly for the next lz22 for the 2wd.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Long time lurker, first time poster. I will get some pictures of my trucks up when I have a chance.

 

Reason for the post: well I feel like I can offer experience and advise concerning the LZ22 upgrade.

 

Was really easy, but there are some things I'd do diffferent( and will be doing different when I do the lz24.

 

First, I ripped the l20 out of my 77  KC 4x4. very easy pull- old dealership SAS swap. Then I took everything off the l20, and put it on the z22. No, I didn't drill any holes. No I didn't mess with the head gasket (z22 HG) other then cut the front and graft the L series up front.

 

So currently what I have-

stock non-married intake, ported agressively.

l16 exhaust manifold/header- had headers and theyy kept popping gaskets.

2 1/4 exhaust with a raptor turbo muffler

weber 32/36

matchbox dizzy

A87 head

z22 block

 

The difference? I have a much better response in partiall and full throttle then the l20, not as noticable from a dead standstill.

I have the weber with its stock jets, and I barely open it up and it purrs  and performs great. Timing is currently at 12, best performance was definately at 16 but anytime a hill came up it would ping, same wiith 14, dropping down to 10 felt like I only had 60% of the power, but it ran reliably without pinging. I now run premium gas with my timing at 12, but I haven't gone through and finished all the fine tuning still.

 

Looking back? I might drill the holes in the block (wishy washy, motor doesn't overheat or do anything funny cooling wise) But I would definately drill the head for the heating runners that go into the intake manifold. I would also use 2 inch exhaust instead of 2 1/4.

 

I built the motor as per instructions from an engine racer/builder I know locally. He sees no need to go through all the extra effort of drilling the block and HG, and with my results so far neither do I.

 

Next engine project? z24 stock bottom end, u67 head that I will grind the combustion chamber to squeeze some extra CCs, long tube stainless steel headers, hogged out intake, undecided carburator. All for my 79 KC that I wanna drop. When that ones done I got a z24 block with some forged flat tops in it. Probably slap a stock z24 head on it, port it, then use it in the 4x4 for more low end. Thinking maybe stock z24, then a small turbo that pressurizes the carb. I don't like having to rev that poor lz22 ~6K.

 

Questions? Comments? Glad to be part of the club.

 

TLDR- Take a stock z22, use z22 HG and cut front off, run l series head and all timing components, Enjoy.

There is one hole in the back of the gasket on a L series that is not there on a Z series gasket. It would have been wise to punch that hole out.

 

On a side note, I would love to see pics of the dealer installed solid axle. What steering box? What springs? Which axle? D30? Transfer case? D300?

 

If you could snap some pics of that I would love to see them. Do you want to sell the truck?

[DatsunHooked]

Both of my 4x4s are Dana 30 fronts with drum brakes, and dana 20 transfer cases.Stock 620 steering boxes, and I believe the rest of the steering gear is 75ish cj. Shackle flip front and back with 215/75/15. Real nice simple set up. The other truck is a 4.3 chevy and th350. It has extensive rust issues and will be probably recieving a king cab/super short  bed.  At this time i'm not willing to sell the truck, but if you Pm'd me an offer I might be able to set up a sale to you for the other 4x4 or some others I know of in the area. I will get some pictures, But  I gotta take them and set up an account with photobuck or someone else.

[Sealik]

There is one hole in the back of the gasket on a L series that is not there on a Z series gasket. It would have been wise to punch that hole out.

 

 

Correct...... prior to building my LZ23 I talked to a person on another forum that has assembled quite a few LZs.

He stated that those holes in the block and HG should be drilled out....if not...results in premature piston/cylinder wear.

One side of the cylinder is hotter than the other side.....not conducive

For the amount of time it takes....well worth it.

9 holes in HG....7 in block...done it

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I've always wanted one of those dealer optioned 4x4's. Send me some pics and I'll be in touch.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Correct...... prior to building my LZ23 I talked to a person on another forum that has assembled quite a few LZs.

He stated that those holes in the block and HG should be drilled out....if not...results in premature piston/cylinder wear.

One side of the cylinder is hotter than the other side.....not conducive

For the amount of time it takes....well worth it.

9 holes in HG....7 in block...done it

 

 

 

I use a gasket punch. Either way, the hole doesn't need to be triangular, round is fine.

[bayareawagn]

i am having an issue with my lz22 build. i am trying to figure out what the position should be on the crank before putting on my timing components. i have the head on aligned with the timing marks, but i am unsure of the positioning of the crank. i prob sound a little stupid, but is the crank suppose to be tdc. any help would be greatly appreciated. pics with be awesome but not necessary. thank you in advance for any help. i really need to get my datto on the road!!!!!

 

 

joamel

[DatsunHooked]

Time it  exactly like an l20. pistons 1 and 4 should be TDC.

[DatsunHooked]

One thing I didn't orriginally say, and seem to have seen a lot of in the other lz22 posts is about pinging. I am running an open A87 head, 91 octane gas, at 12 degrees BTDC, and get no pinging. Not sure why. I must admit that the next lz22 is going to have a u67 with some grinding work in the chamber, specifically to match the diameter of the chamber to the block bore, to reduce comepression some so I can have a little more timing.

[datzenmike]

2.2 liters crammed into a 2.0 liter head will up the compression to 9.84 so yes you can expect some pinging on reg gas.

[Sealik]

i am having an issue with my lz22 build. i am trying to figure out what the position should be on the crank before putting on my timing components. i have the head on aligned with the timing marks, but i am unsure of the positioning of the crank. i prob sound a little stupid, but is the crank suppose to be tdc. any help would be greatly appreciated. pics with be awesome but not necessary. thank you in advance for any help. i really need to get my datto on the road!!!!!

 

 

joamel

 

# 1 piston up.........Dimple on crank gear at 3 o'clock.....cam lobes at 10 and 2

 

[hang_510]

Correct...... prior to building my LZ23 I talked to a person on another forum that has assembled quite a few LZs.

He stated that those holes in the block and HG should be drilled out....if not...results in premature piston/cylinder wear.

One side of the cylinder is hotter than the other side.....not conducive

For the amount of time it takes....well worth it.

9 holes in HG....7 in block...done it

+ 1 :thumbup:

 

i use ni$mo HG = 1 hole

 

IIRC only 3 holes in the block i used.

 

 

im ~9.5:1 and can run 87 if im cruising. runs great on 89

[hang_510]

 

 

[bayareawagn]

hey guys. thank you for the help. i've been out of the datsun game for a while now, and have been trying to get my truck on the road for a while, but have been getting lazy with putting it together. i really appreciate it.