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Are the Nismo HD torsions still available?

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HD torsions?  never heard of em.   WHy pay money for Nismo torsions when you can get coil overs?

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What, for shock absorbers?

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Is that a later model torsion bar or what.I never heard of them myself.

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You guys never heard of Torsions? All the Datsun trucks used torsion bar front suspension.

 

99996-T4010 26MM TORSION BAR SET #1 620

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It's the easiest way to achieve moar low.

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I have always wondered about this, did they make beefier versions.

I cannot recall if I have asked this before, did the 720 diesel trucks have better/stronger torsion bars than the gas versions, to make up for the added weight of the diesel engine?

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It's the easiest way to achieve moar low. ??????

I dont get this one.

But GG posted the part number

1 888 833-3225 Call!!!!!!!!!!

 

make sure yiu get the bigger/thicker one.

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guys I'm pretty sure he means Harvey duty by HD. and yes torsion bars are factory height adjustable. hence draker's moar low comment....

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You guys never heard of Torsions? All the Datsun trucks used torsion bar front suspension.99996-T4010 26MM TORSION BAR SET #1 620

What do you mean you guys?I know what torsion bars they suck that's why I dont have any on my truck ow,I just don't know anything about these gismo one he seeks.

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By "you guys" I meant ignoramuses like mrbigtanker. You dish it out, you can take it too.

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By "you guys" I meant ignoramuses like mrbigtanker. You dish it out, you can take it too.

Im confused?

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OK, no more j/k

 

Heavy Duty torsions are perhap still available -- call Nissan Motorsports to find out. Hainz listed the phone number. And yes, torsion bars have some disadvantages compared to coil springs, but so do coils have disadvantages compared to torsions. But mostly they work very well, used by Ford, VW, Packard, Jaguar, Cadillac and others.

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there was another member on here (or was it on another datsun truck forum) who swapped out his stock torsion bars for some others through a certain company...

i think his were red...

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HD torsions?  never heard of em.   WHy pay money for Nismo torsions when you can get coil overs?

true, but some people are only able to swap parts, and not necessarily fabricate their own parts/mounts/etc

OR know/want to pay someone with a welder to do so. plus its more economical

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HD torsions?  never heard of em.   WHy pay money for Nismo torsions when you can get coil overs?

 

true, but some people are only able to swap parts, and not necessarily fabricate their own parts/mounts/etc

OR know/want to pay someone with a welder to do so. plus its more economical

 

To each his own reason. For me, none of the above.

 

My reasoning is simple. It's in my name. Oldskool. I love the challenge of making old technology work as well or better than new technology or seeing if I can make current technology better. It's no different than a vintage rodder running a straight axle or a Mustang II front clip; it's all down to choice and means.

 

The goal for my trucks suspension is to run mostly vintage technology with a few tricks to obtain substantial corner handling and a very smooth ride while in full static drop. The torsions are part of this equation according to the mental notes in my head. I've been pursuing a much more vintage technology but I don't think it's going to pan out. I'm thinking to complicated and parts a pain. Here's what was going to originally happen:

 

suspensionfoo.jpg

 

Here's the actual product http://storm.oldcarmanualproject.com/packardtorsion1955.htm

 

The ideas not gone yet...

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Just call

the 99996 part number means its USA made part so there might be another supllier other than nissan.

 

I believe they made this for snow plow set ups or something of that nature its its even possible for a datsun to have enough weight to hold up a snow plow

 

 

nissanmotorsport moved to Tennesee so cant calim on the service now . But when in Californian it was good but no market for the old stuff anymore so they moved all the parts and it might not even be avail.

Call MOFO if you want it

 

Just buy soem KYB "Gas A Just" and that will stiffen it up or the KYB MOMO MAX. from RockAuto

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To each his own reason. For me, none of the above.

 

My reasoning is simple. It's in my name. Oldskool. I love the challenge of making old technology work as well or better than new technology or seeing if I can make current technology better. It's no different than a vintage rodder running a straight axle or a Mustang II front clip; it's all down to choice and means.

 

The goal for my trucks suspension is to run mostly vintage technology with a few tricks to obtain substantial corner handling and a very smooth ride while in full static drop. The torsions are part of this equation according to the mental notes in my head. I've been pursuing a much more vintage technology but I don't think it's going to pan out. I'm thinking to complicated and parts a pain. Here's what was going to originally happen:

 

suspensionfoo.jpg

 

Here's the actual product http://storm.oldcarmanualproject.com/packardtorsion1955.htm

 

The ideas not gone yet...

Thats different never even heard of this set up you are trying to do,seems like a lot of work though,and to each your own i can understand the Oldskool thought but for me i like the way old things look and the way new things work,You know just like  VW's they have come such along way from the old Sandy beach day's but i dont disagree with you i want so see this if you do it.And give me some credit at least i kept my truck with a L block for now.lol hint hint  HAWAIIAN....

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all the old nismo catalogs i've seen always had a oic of a baja or offroad 521 next to these, think they were for moar higher not moar loar

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If they are firmer, you can go lower and not bottom out, firmer would also keep a 4X4 higher, the  moar loar you go, the firmer you want, and the same principle applies to the rear of a vehicle also.

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High or low is simply determined by how they're indexed and adjusted.  Stiffer for lower vehicles is to keep them from bottoming out since you're removed most of the factory available travel.  It's better than welding the A-arms to the frame, though it rides and handles about as harsh.

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Thats different never even heard of this set up you are trying to do,seems like a lot of work though,and to each your own i can understand the Oldskool thought but for me i like the way old things look and the way new things work,You know just like  VW's they have come such along way from the old Sandy beach day's but i dont disagree with you i want so see this if you do it.And give me some credit at least i kept my truck with a L block for now.lol hint hint  HAWAIIAN....

This would definitely be a spare frame project. I really want to do it. Maybe in the future. There is nothing wrong with new school. I actually thought about running coil overs and thought about running bagged coil overs. Without massive rework for my goals though, it won't work. BTW, your truck wins over mine everyday. Do what you want and if you lose the motor, you may have a buyer here though.

 

all the old nismo catalogs i've seen always had a oic of a baja or offroad 521 next to these, think they were for moar higher not moar loar

That's one of the oldskool tricks. Utilize 4x4 suspension components for the 4x2. They are usually designed beefier and stiffer. I tried to this with my 2004 Colorado but there was too many differences. I finally used a fully modified DJM / Belltech combination to achieve the results I was looking for.

 

Just buy soem KYB "Gas A Just" and that will stiffen it up or the KYB MOMO MAX. from RockAuto

They are too long and will likely raise the truck. However I will be modifying the shock perches to a hoop to hoop style with hopefully a design trick not yet seen here (by me anyway). The shocks are not designed though to hold the weight of the vehicle, only damper the rebound or shock effect of the articulated suspension. Yes, if they are gas-adjusts, etc, they will hold the weight of the truck. Problem is when your in a hard corner, if the weight of the vehicle is depending on the shock for height, it cannot rebound properly and maintain good symmetry. I am looking for static low, ride handling suspension and semi-decent ride. The torsions are a key component to this process.

 

Think I'm gonna try to order them online first and see what happens. Are the 520/521/620 all the same? Is 720 torsions?

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This would definitely be a spare frame project. I really want to do it. Maybe in the future. There is nothing wrong with new school. I actually thought about running coil overs and thought about running bagged coil overs. Without massive rework for my goals though, it won't work. BTW, your truck wins over mine everyday. Do what you want and if you lose the motor, you may have a buyer here though.

 

That's one of the oldskool tricks. Utilize 4x4 suspension components for the 4x2. They are usually designed beefier and stiffer. I tried to this with my 2004 Colorado but there was too many differences. I finally used a fully modified DJM / Belltech combination to achieve the results I was looking for.

 

They are too long and will likely raise the truck. However I will be modifying the shock perches to a hoop to hoop style with hopefully a design trick not yet seen here (by me anyway). The shocks are not designed though to hold the weight of the vehicle, only damper the rebound or shock effect of the articulated suspension. Yes, if they are gas-adjusts, etc, they will hold the weight of the truck. Problem is when your in a hard corner, if the weight of the vehicle is depending on the shock for height, it cannot rebound properly and maintain good symmetry. I am looking for static low, ride handling suspension and semi-decent ride. The torsions are a key component to this process.

 

Think I'm gonna try to order them online first and see what happens. Are the 520/521/620 all the same? Is 720 torsions?

At least i still got my side markers and bed hooks.i just kidding i just kidding.Aloha bradda.HAWAIIAN

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