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My New Toy: Possible Build Thread


Kirden

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Ah parts sourcing. Gotta love it right?

 

Picked up a sweet U67 from Tdaaj (thanks again). Going to grab a L20B block from MM47 ( :thumbup: ). Now I'm looking for a Z22 crank and a machinist that can put up with my ADD long enough to help me out :P

 

Goal is to have a 2.2L running between 13-15lbs of boost. I don't like turbos on DD vehicles so this will be built around a supercharger.

 

So far the plan is port and polish the head, larger valves if possible, dual high lift valve springs, chromoly retainers, resurfaced (or NOS) rockers, new guides, and a dual grind from Colt Cams with 45 overlap and 496 exh and 507 Int valve lift. Should make power to 6500rpms. Hope for minimal milling on the head, buying a 1.2mm squished height metal headgasket. I want to be between 8:1 and 8.4:1 CR when everything is finished.

 

Still lost on the bottom end for now. I'm tempted to look at aftermarket rods and forged pistons but not really sure yet. Still need to pick up a KA oil pump, Z water pump (I think that is the high output one), new manifolds, and a whole lot of other stuff. Oh well, atleast the ball is rolling.

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Making a few changes in direction for ease and compatibility. Schnieder offers a 488 lift int and exh "turbo" cam grind, dual hi-lift springs, chromoly retainers, and whatever size lash pads the machinist says I need so I'm going all Schnieder. I'm also going with forged pistons for the 4g63 engine. Will have to go to 86mm bore on the L20B block but that shouldn't be a problem.

 

I've asked a few people questions about the rods they suggest to get me to my goal CR but so far no one is biting. I may have a long payday weekend (4 days off) so it looks like I'll be disassembling the block and head and sending out the cam to schnieder next week.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, nothing new with the truck. Been really busy getting everything ready to move. My girlfriend and I are moving in together so that is taking most of my spare change this pay period. Hope to be back to Datsuns soon.

 

Per the rules, I has a oic:

Brit_zps6b4702f5.jpg

 

I'll be sure to get more this weekend.

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Yes indeed :P

 

So sad thing has happened to my truck. I have a feeling I am going to have some severe issues in the near future.

 

The PO rigged the busted carrier bearing isolator donut up with duct tape. Well, being the typical lazy american, I decided to deal with it when it broke, and now I have a feeling that the fix is toast. On decel in 1st-3rd gear, there is a popping that sounds like a bad cv axle. Also, while driving, slight bumps cause the same sounds, but it is not constant.

 

I hope I can figure out another temporary fix till this weekend since I have work tomorrow, but first I have to baby it back 28 miles to get home :(

 

Mike, you want to overnight me some conveyor belt rubber?

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  • 1 month later...

Alright, I haven't been updating this much recently because there hasn't been much to update. However, the truck is going down for a while. I just can't keep up with everything that is breaking and trying to save for the engine build. This time the distributor bolt broke.

 

I find it interesting that, besides the battery having a dead cell and the original alternator going bad, the only other major issues have been because of broken bolts. The transmission mount bolts have broken, all four driveshaft bolts, the alternator bolt (once cause it was old, once cause I didn't put a bushing in the alternator), and the transmission crossmember bolts on the passenger side. I'm starting to thing that I need to spend a little out of each check replacing bolts, motor mounts, and all bushings ect that will help reduce vibration. All these bolts breaking just doesn't seem normal unless there is a vibration issue.

 

Another big thing that is contributing to the vibration is the carrier bearing isolator. It is toast, so I'm saving for the local driveshaft shop to build me a one piece.

 

Anyway, for now I'm stuck driving an 89 olds cutlass ciera that smells like a pound. Guy never cleaned out the car and took his dog everywhere with him. Guess I can't complain too much about a free car though. Cya around ratsun. Hope to be back on this project in the near future.

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I went thru the same thing you did on both my standard cab and my king cab. On the standard I bought one that was 4" and shortened it with a chop saw and welder. It worked great. On the king I couldn't find one so I combined two. No chop saw, used a sawzall... blew up and took out my gas tank and left me at the side of the road in rain. I paid 500$ for my one piece drive line. It's worth it. 

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  • 3 months later...

I've gathered a lot of parts but been too busy/lazy to do work. On the 12th my new radiator comes in but this weekend I should have some updates installing my new matchbox and alternator mount. Oh, also new water pump. Lets hope it all goes as planned so I can have this back on the road tuesday and finally be rid of the autotragic oldsmobile...

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I thought v8 fox body mustang 1pc shafts were the right length, Just weld on the correct yokes front and back?

can get yokes from shaftmasters.com so you don't have to worry about the welds breaking and the mustang shaft will only work on short wheelbase 620s with ka swap that I know of I'm the one that's using the stang driveshaft mine is a reg cab short box
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  • 1 month later...

Ok, long time no update cause I've been fighting myself to get this back on the road, but after the huge amount of money I just spent on it I figured I would drop by and leave a list.

 

Reconditioned L20 (6") rods, Reco Z22 crank, 87.5mm 28.25mm pin height pistons and rings. Still need the SBC ARP rod bolts then the short block is off to the machine shop. Going to have the deck milled to a clean surface, rods modified for ARP bolts, and double check everything for correct bearing sizes.

 

Edit: nevermind, not going to modify the rods to take SBC bolts. Picked up some ARP bolts for the nissan Z20 rods so no modification required :)

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Need less lazy...

 

Still waiting on the crank and pistons to show up. The rods came in and look decent. Not exactly what I was expecting, but for $40 each they are good. They need a good cleaning as there seems to be some machining grit around the edges. Hopefully the machine shop will take care of that.

 

Also waiting to make sure I don't win this bid on ebay before I purchase the bearings. Can't live off ramen till payday...

 

I'm also trying to find time to get the carrier bearing rubber replaced but next week is the end of my company's fiscal year so things have been hectic. Still waiting on my thermostat upper and lower housing to show. If that ever gets here the truck will be back on the road with the L18 for now.

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Hah! Yea, but if I win this ebay bid I'll be all cool JDM yo... If not I have enough for bearings and block machining :w00t:

 

I'd love to say this will be in and running by St. Patty's (my b-day), but honestly the deadline is more like June. If I can get it back on the road with the L18 that will motivate me to finish faster, but until work calms down I can't be in a rush.

 

We are swapping over out enitre system except for the e-com division. The stores (over 200), DCs, buyers, logistics, ect all get an overhaul and I just happen to work in WMS. When I'm not frazzled out of my mind I spend time with my son, not my Datsuns :(

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Woot, someone outbid me. Congrats if he sells under reserve, you are so JDM yo. And now... Fuckin waiting game :crying: I need to fire my fedex guy. UPS always delivers 1-2 days early, fedex waits till the estimated day and hides in the bushes till I leave so they can drop a note on my door instead of giving me my goodies...

 

Monday I'll call up midstate machine. Gotta get an estimate for boring 2.5mm over, milling the block .25-.5mm, pressing on the pistons, and getting them to double check the bearing sizes I need. Supposedly I need one size over mains and two sizes over for rods. All that said I still have to tear down the block and get it ready.

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Catching hell trying to source an 88mm gasket for this build. I can't find the gasket on nissanparts.cc or through the nismo sites. I've tried headgasket.com for a copper one and never had a reply. Waiting to see if I can get a reply from Clark.

 

I've also contacted some builders for L-series engines and they say they modify a Z22 gasket and use the front portion of the L20b gasket. I really want to use that as a last resort because I'm not sure I trust myself modifying the gasket. I've seen it done in a thread on here, but I can't remember where.

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