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Need distributor help


Nismo1970

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My uncle had mentioned I might want to invest in a new distributor, when he was helping me tune my carb. He had mentioned that mallory was the best, n i've always taken his advise when it comes to mechanical help, until i saw the prices for a mallory, n i was like "i think a simple one for now will do." So my question is what kind to i need and where do i get it fast? I have an L20b in my 521. Shes stared up yesterday, but didn't today. Still cranks and truns but doesn't start. Help Plz, Thank you in advance.

 

This is what i have in it right now

2012-12-28_15-28-14_47_zps0d54b4a6.jpg

 

Cap Off

2012-12-28_15-28-26_547_zpscb0dabc5.jpg

 

Coil

2012-12-28_15-28-42_435_zps7db8b7e9.jpg

 

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Mallory is the best.? He probably thinks Chevrolet is also the best. Those "made in china" tune-up parts are not the best. The genuine Nissan cap & rotors are still good after 30 years.

 

Your L20B already has the genuine Nissan electronic ignition from a 1978 620 pickup. Very good stuff.

 

 

> she did get a spark but after it jus cranks

 

That is a wiring problem, not a problem with any particular part. There is power on the Start (crank) circuit and on the Run circuit.

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are you still getting spark at the spark plugs?

 

and just cuz the fuel has made it to the filter doesnt mean its making it to the cylinders.

 

No spark, it just cranks but doesn't struggle to turn on. it did at first but now it jus truns. tried putting a lil gas in the carb but nada

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Mallory is the best.? He probably thinks Chevrolet is also the best. Those "made in china" tune-up parts are not the best. The genuine Nissan cap & rotors are still good after 30 years.

 

Your L20B already has the genuine Nissan electronic ignition from a 1978 620 pickup. Very good stuff.

 

 

> she did get a spark but after it jus cranks

 

That is a wiring problem, not a problem with any particular part. There is power on the Start (crank) circuit and on the Run circuit.

 

He owns two C10's, so i guess its safe to say he thinks chevy is the best, but he did lead me to my 521 and always helped me work on it. so i guess id better make a run to my local nissan dealership. :crying:

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The problem is the WIRING - not spark plugs, not fule lines, not the "module"

 

Very common problem

 

> she did get a spark but after it jus cranks

 

That is a wiring problem, not a problem with any particular part. There is power on the Start (crank) circuit and on the Run circuit. Wiggle the wires on the back of the ignition switch.

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2012-12-28_15-28-42_435_zps7db8b7e9.jpg

 

Wires all on that coil? looks loose to me.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's what your distributor should have to make it work. The black box is known as a remote igniter so look on the wiring for it and see if wiring is loose or fallen off.

 

remoteigniter.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

If not the black box could be missing and a (your dad will love this!) General Motors HEI unit substituted. Wired in this way...GMHEIconnections.jpg

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Guest 510kamikazifreak
don't see a module. but i got it rewired not too long ago, so i'm assuming for 700 bucks they wired it right.

 

 

Looking at the wiring for the money you paid,I would "hope" but ...

 

Where does the black wire go?

Looks like only wire on negative terminal?

Appears to be no grommet?

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For $700 you won't get a good wiring job, but only an inflated job. That distributor says "12V... resistor" which makes it the wrong one to use. The 1978 L20B system uses a 12V no resistor coil, Nissan part number H7280.

 

On a 521 it needs to have both harness wires (that formerly went to the resistor) to be bolted to the coil positive terminal or it won't make any spark until you let off cranking.

 

 

The lower terminal wire isn't connected to anything in this photo:

2012-12-28_15-28-42_435_zps7db8b7e9.jpg

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Ya that lower black wire is all alone. Hmm? Better go back to that shop, n get an explination. Havent had time too do much to it or look at it, but like i said before it was running fine before it started no problem, but jus recently it gave me problems. It started yesterday, but i bearly got her started. Ill look at it tomorrow.

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You can get genuine Hitachi cap & rotor from the Nissan dealer. Be prepared it may take 3 days to order it.

 

Genuine cap & rotor can last more than 30 years, they are really high quality. I would not replace the cap & rotor unless it is carbon-tracked. A gentle wash with dish soap and dry overnight is normally all the cap needs. Scrape the terminals inside the cap (and the edge of the rotor) to remove the normal oxidation.

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Thanks, i'll definitly look into it. I do want to replace the rotor at least, cuz ya made in china doesn't look great. as one of the guys here mentioned. but thank you for the info. I can always count on fellow ratsun members for questions. Have a happy new years Ratsun fans. Jus another great year of owning a datsun down :) Safe travels.

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I was wondering the same thing about the lower wire does not looked hooked up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

so this rig was running with all the wires on one side.

 

Datzenmikes photo with the box is about the EZest way to hook this up.

 

if the lower wire that is not hooked up that has to be the - side and that has to be the trigger side.

 

Your uncle should be able to figure this out.I dont want to hear its a Jap shit. Thats what most chevy guys say.

 

so in Datzenmikes photo with the blu wire(goes to -coil) from the remote box. find this wire and should go to the - side coil. I bet its hooked up to the + side. I dont know what color you used so it might be splice as that all you had for a wire(whatever color you had)

also if you got a tach that is also from the - side coil also.(soemtime disconnecting them will help trouble shooting

 

 

also read what the coil say on side and tell us what is says.

If it says needs a external resisitor then you have a point coil and you should get a modern 78 79 coil as they dont need a resisitor. Coils that need a reisitor are for point ignitions and not made to run a constance 12-14 volts for a long time. soem people get away with it but soem dont.

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I was wondering the same thing about the lower wire does not looked hooked up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

so this rig was running with all the wires on one side.

 

Datzenmikes photo with the box is about the EZest way to hook this up.

 

if the lower wire that is not hooked up that has to be the - side and that has to be the trigger side.

 

Your uncle should be able to figure this out.I dont want to hear its a Jap shit. Thats what most chevy guys say.

 

so in Datzenmikes photo with the blu wire(goes to -coil) from the remote box. find this wire and should go to the - side coil. I bet its hooked up to the + side. I dont know what color you used so it might be splice as that all you had for a wire(whatever color you had)

also if you got a tach that is also from the - side coil also.(soemtime disconnecting them will help trouble shooting

 

 

also read what the coil say on side and tell us what is says.

If it says needs a external resisitor then you have a point coil and you should get a modern 78 79 coil as they dont need a resisitor. Coils that need a reisitor are for point ignitions and not made to run a constance 12-14 volts for a long time. soem people get away with it but soem dont.

lol its funny, my uncle won't say that, he's a chevy dude, but he actually steered me towards buying it, and always answered any questions i had.

 

so the blue wire is going to the remote box and is on the negative side of the coil.

 

so the coil says

 

"GT 118 12V

Oil filled coil

Use with external resistor."

 

I dont know if that black wire is a ground, but there are two wires ground on the inside, so i dunno exactly what that wire is lol

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