datzenmike Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I'll wait. Wish you had a comparison of the matchbox spark. Damn.... these units are everywhere in the wrecking yards. 1 Quote Link to comment
red13 Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I'll wait. Wish you had a comparison of the matchbox spark. Damn.... these units are everywhere in the wrecking yards. if i had the coil to wire up i would do the matchbox setup, ideally the remote electronic dizzy would be better. instead of having to gut a ignition module to wire it. Yeah the prw-2 ignition module and gm coil are easy to get a hold of 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Skip the module and connect directly to the Red and the Green coil wires. 1 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 When comparing, or checking for spark in open air, you need to use a much larger gap, like cutting the ground electrode completely off the test plug. The reason is because it takes a much stonger spark to jump (for refference) .040" under compression, than it does in open air. The rule of thumb I have always went by is a minimum of .250" gap in open air. On some really high compression applications, that needs to be even greater, or the engine will cut out durring full load with a standard plug gap. The only way to get around that is to close the gap on the plug, or get a hotter ignition. I campained a 125cc flat track bike in the mid '70s that had a 19:1 compression ratio. The only way I could get it to run cleanly through the rpm range was to run a .016" plug gap. 1 Quote Link to comment
red13 Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Skip the module and connect directly to the Red and the Green coil wires. the prw-2 ignition module does wire into the red and green wire, just used the old module to gut to run wiring through Quote Link to comment
620Bisbee Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Installing Matchbox distributor on 1974 l18 I have the pedestal for both engines l20 and l18 and I have distributor for both 18 and the 20 so far the best I can get is needing to cut a slot out of the timing on the back or use a big washer to hold the distributor down someone said take out the oil pump drive shaft but I don't want to turn that around and get it messed up so it won't run so I'm just I'm just getting the distributor so It'll point at number one any help would be greatly appreciated and do I need the ballast resistor with the Accel super coil? sorry for my so many stupid questions Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 All you need is to get the engine at TDC and the rotor under ANY spark plug wire above it on the cap. Doesn't matter which one because this will become the #1 plug and all you do is move all the other wires into the 1342 (counter clockwise) firing order. Now if you can't get this adjustment, or you are at the far end of the adjustment and can't quite get it, the easiest thing to do is unbolt the distributor from the timing cover and lift it out. Look down inside at the top of the drive spindle and note it's position. Grip the spindle with needle nose pliers and hold onto it while someone drops the oil pump out of the way. Two people should be able to lower the spindle enough to disengage it from the crankshaft and turn it one tooth in the direction you want the rotor to be turned. Push it back up into place and hold with the pliers. Install the oil pump with one bolt for now. You may have to twist the oil pump as it engages the spindle. Drop the distributor loosely back in place and check that the rotor does indeed now point directly under one of the plug wires on the cap. If not keep trying. If it is good, put the other oil pump bolts in and tighten them and bolt the distributor in. Expect to spill a couple of tablespoonfuls of oil when the pump is removed. Have rags handy. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Is it the SUPER COIL BIG yellow one? they come with a .85 ohm ballast resisitor in the box. Me ? yes I would use the stock ballast resisitor. as I don't think it wants a full14volts while running. otherwise buy a 79 Datsun coilor a MSD Blaster 2 coil and don't use anyballast resisitor. PS there were 2 matchbox distributors one will fit the base mount and one will be like 60degs off. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 4, 2019 Report Share Posted April 4, 2019 22 hours ago, 620Bisbee said: and do I need the ballast resistor with the Accel super coil? sorry for my so many stupid questions There are no stupid questions only being stupid for not asking them. ..... ok there have been a few really stupid questions but you are a long way from it. Throw the Accel 'super' coil away or sell it. If the primary coil resistance is 0.8 - 1.0 ohms you can take a chance but don't blame me if it blows up. Get a coil from any Datsun after '77 like a '79 200sx. It rated between 0.8 and 1.0 resistance and is perfect and made for the EI matchbox distributor. If you have a 'points' coil you have to run a ballast resistor or it will draw too much current through it and burn out. Also you won't get the higher output available with an EI coil. Quote Link to comment
Fatdaddy53 Posted July 9, 2019 Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 I need help on this topic...... I have an electronic distributor I'd like to run, can anyone tell me what wires it needs ran to the 2 plugs. .. I currentlyhave a dual point one , and it's either the ei or a pertronix Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2019 Report Share Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) You have the whole assembley? otherwise it might not fit a L16 mount will not work on a L20 mount as whats needed on a Late Model EI L20b distributor. and of those they were 2 types. Most people forget the distributor mount on the front cover of the motor look in the "HOW TO" section of Ratsun they have multiple instructions on this topic Edited July 10, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
nvestor88 Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 Looking to swap my factory distributor to pertronix 1741 on L20 motor. What other parts would I need besides the ignitor kit? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 Probably that's it. I don't think the Pertronix will handle the EI low impedance coil. Quote Link to comment
nvestor88 Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 Which coil would you suggest for this application? Was thinking of running an electronic distributor from a later model car, but seems like they are hard to come by.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 I think the pertronix just replaces the points so no advantage in spark potential, you can use your points coil. An electronic ignition (EI) distributor uses a lower impedance coil that draws more current and makes more power. Hainz would know. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 (edited) pERTRONIX YOU USE YOUR STOCK COIL AND THE STOCK BALLAST RESISITOR 3.2 OHMS TOTAL. If you change it it could pop the pertronix if you don't get it right. Yu can put a lower ohm coil but then need a higher ohm ballast or add another one with the stock one. Hes not getting spark.is the real proplem Edited September 20, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 20, 2019 Report Share Posted September 20, 2019 Just doing away with the points is a gain. No adjustments or ever having to replace or set, file them things. Quote Link to comment
nvestor88 Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 Are the later model electronic distributors hard to come by? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 24, 2019 Report Share Posted September 24, 2019 This was near the end of the L series so not a lot made. '78.... remote igniter. Has the electronics in a box mounted under the dash. If missing a GM HEI module can easily be used. S10 200sx 620 truck '79 ....Electronics was miniaturized to a small box mounted on the side of the distributor. AKA 'Matchbox' S10 200sx, A10 HL510 620 truck '80.... unchanged from '79 720 truck L20B (last year for the L engine) A10 HL510 with Z20S engine single plug per cylinder* S110 200sx with Z20E engine single plug per cylinder* '82.... all Z20 engines had the dual plug per cylinder and the 8 plug distributor. One of these will work in an L series if you don't mind the 4 extra plug wire terminals not being used. * these are often overlooked as they had Z series engines but they are basically the same matchbox as the L series and will work on them. Similar year 210 (A series) engines used the matchbox but it has a drive gear on the bottom held on with a roll pin. I think you can remove the gear and put the bottom from an L distributor on them and the work in an L series engine Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 24, 2019 Report Share Posted September 24, 2019 Get the point distributor to work first to see if the msd is bad Use the test light and see if it flashes. otherwise toe just guessing Quote Link to comment
Ramon510 Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Hey guys, Thousand years after you, I finally have my 510, but need a D4K distributor. Does anyone have one for sale? Regards Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Hi Ramon, a better place to ask is here... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/ Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 (edited) Amazon sell a generic Chinese L series Distributor that one can be made to work if you know what your doing to get the distributor plate to hold correctly its only 60$ https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Datsun-Ignition-Distributor-BlueBird/dp/B01KPRCQM2 Edited November 4, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
ddrum Posted November 28, 2022 Report Share Posted November 28, 2022 I have a question, I have a spare matchbox distributor from a old truck that i got into an accident with, the potential problem is that is base got broken. My question being, can I run it like this on an L16? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 28, 2022 Report Share Posted November 28, 2022 The plastic part (called a collar) helps align the the spindle and the distributor shaft. The part number is 22119-W0400 for most L20Bs earlier ones were metal, might fit.... on the chance Nissan still has them. Try... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/ Quote Link to comment
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