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Electronic Ignition Conversion - Factory Datsun "matchbox"


ggzilla

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Forget the after market stuff. Their like fishing lures... they catch more fishermen that fish. Running the ballast resistor you are not getting higher output.

 

Get an EI coil that's made for the matchbox EI distributor and throw the ballast resistor away you won't need it. The Nissan EI coil has a lower impedance, meaning more current can flow through it safely without over heating. More current means more output. Just look for any coil after '77 on any Nissan. Order a '79 200sx coil or find one in the wrecking yard.  

 

Hey Daniel. I went to get my coffee and you beat me.

 

 

BTW... that matchbox distributor is from a '79 620 or an '80 720 truck.

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If you got a Nissan matchbox distributor then  you can use a MSD or the 79/80 coil and you DONT need a resistor.   also dont run the power wires to the coil and tywrap them to the center coil wire. that noise will jump on the otherwires

 

 

if you have run on deieseling then its a open chamber head issue and dont have a carb selinoid to block the gas getting sucked in at idle. I just press the pedal down a lttle to open up the butterfly and it might help shut it off faster. or use the clutch. Happen most on hot days or motor really warm

 

 

still have proplems then dist bushing maybe be loose, dist weights inside, carb issue retime it again to anther setting

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I Changed the plugs less than 200km ago, my car hardly goes anywhere. Today i was thinking that maybe its the gas, i hardly do ever use the car, can it maybe be the gas?

 

Im going to remove the resistor tomorrow, might just make a jumper straight across it due to ease of installation.

 

Would make another post for my pre-ignition problem

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im also getting a pre ignition when i switch off my engine, timing is properly setup, can the resistor cause this problem?

 

That's known as dieseling or run on. I have no idea what Datsun or engine you have or the year, or if it has the stock carb. Include all this information in a separate thread. No the resistor or any part of the ignition can cause this as the ignition is turned off and the coil is not firing. .

 

Dieseling in a gas engine is the firing of the cylinders without the ignition on, caused by the heat of compression igniting the fuel and air. Causes can be...

 

1/ Too low an octane gas. The higher the octane the harder the gas is to ignite.

 

2/ Compression too high. Compression concentrates the heat in the air. A diesel engine can produce temperatures above 1,200 F. A gas engine needs less than half that amount to self ignite.

 

3/ Spark plug is too high a heat range. Tip becomes red hot and with the compression the gas auto ignites.

 

4/ Combustion chamber has excess carbon deposits that heat up glowing hot. Over rich carb, choke on, idle mix set too rich and excessive idling.

 

5/ Idle set too high. Allows too much air and gas mixture into the combustion chamber when shutting off.

 

6/ Engine running too hot. Over heating.

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I have been wanting to do this conversion for my Datsun 620 with an L18 motor for a while now, but I can't find the pedestal anywhere. Does any one know the part number for it? I know you can get the 79 Datsun matchbox distributor at Rock Auto, but I am having trouble finding the mount pedestal.

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wiringdizzypedistalsZL16L20B.jpg

 

EIdizzyandhivoloilpump015Large.jpg

 

You should be able to use your L18 base and flat adjustment spacer. What happens is that when assembled and installed, the rotor is pointing is some strange direction and not at the number one wire on the cap and there isn't enough, adjustment to get it timed right.

 

 

So drop the oil pump and the drive spindle above it. By turning the spindle and putting it back in (also called clocking it) you can move the direction the rotor is pointing when the distributor is set back in. All you need do is get the rotor directly under one of the distributor cap terminals AND at the same time enough adjustment to correctly set the advance. The terminal on the cap becomes your new NUMBER ONE plug wire. Then just move the other three wires into the 1342 order in a counter clockwise direction on the distributor cap.

 

 

 

motordistributortiming.jpg

 

This will be the stock alignment of the top of the spindle. The distributor can only engage the spindle below it in one position. You move the spindle... you move the position of the rotor.

 

 

 

If trying this, be sure to set the engine to TDC compression stroke on number one cylinder. 

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There are some variations on the timing plate but if you can find one that fits or modify it then you can clock the sopindle to move the rotor where you want it.

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Resistor is for,tach have not got that far it may or may not need it. the 12v is from where the stock positive side coil was getting power. It wires into the distributor pickup. Red 12v green ground. That is why i gutted a old,module to run wires through it

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Hang on. The Red and Green wires are just a coil that the spinning reluctor induces a current in. This little signal is what tells the module to turn off so there is spark. It's not supposed to have 12 volts connected to it.

 

This might be a viable up grade but it has to work without damaging anything.

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