pastric Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Greetings everyone! I have a '79 620 King Cab with disc brakes and some lower control arm bushings that are kicking my ass! Got the old ones out using an air hammer. A hammer bit quickly takes care of the inner sleeve and rubber bushing. A chisel bit slices through the outer sleeve fairly quickly but some finesse is needed to prevent damage to the bore. Finesse and air hammer are admittedly a bit oxymoronic. The hacksaw method is probably the way to go, although it surely takes longer. Anyway, my problem is installing the new ones. It requires so much force that it destroys the bushing before it's fully in the bore. Any one have experience with this? Here's what I've done so far: The Haynes manual says to use a "suitable socket and a hammer". DO NOT under any circumstances use a "suitable socket and a hammer" to install lower control arm bushings. Complete destruction of the bushing will result! I made a "puller" out of a threaded stud, pipe fittings, nuts and washers, to pull/press the bushing into the bore, but the results were the same: Too much force destroyed bushing. I've tried heating the frame but rubber bushings can only take so much heat. One thing I have yet to try: Heating the frame and freezing the bushings. I don't hold out much hope for this method since the metal casing around the bushing is so thin, it would heat up rather quickly once coming into contact with the hot frame. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 I take it that the bushing is a metal tube with rubber around it and an outer metal tube? The proper tool is Nissan ST36070000, I know this doesn't help but it does look like it has a projecting finger that fits into the opening in the center of the bushing and covers the sleeve ends at the same time. It's the same tool for installing and removing. I have the FSM and it says basically the same thing as yours. Run some emery cloth through the opening and spray WD to lube it then chamfer the leading edge of the bushing to start it. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Might run you $5 apiece to have a machine shop with a press install them for you. A press is really the best way to R & R bushings. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 2eDeYe;65217']Might run you $5 apiece to have a machine shop with a press install them for you. A press is really the best way to R & R bushings. Problem with this is that the bushings that he is tryint to do are pressed into the frame. Good luck getting the whole truck into the hydralic press. Jason Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 I used a block of wood (that a friend held) and a big fucking hammer, they eventually went it without ruining them thankfully. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Problem with this is that the bushings that he is tryint to do are pressed into the frame. Good luck getting the whole truck into the hydralic press. Jason OUCH! Forgot about that...:blink: What about something like this? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Did you ever figure out how to do them. I'm at that stage now. If its going to be a major pain, i'll just skip that. Larry Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 12, 2008 Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 X2 I can't skip it, my bushings are shot :D Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 12, 2008 Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 why am i starting to rethink my disk swap???? this sounds like a real PITA to deal with. unless mine are different Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 12, 2008 Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 Depends, the drivers side bolt on mine was seized so I had to hack at it with the sawsall to get the arm off. So now the bushing is pretty well done cause I was hacking into it as well. The other side is great... Quote Link to comment
datsun76_620 Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Any more ideas other than using WD/assbly lube and wood? I also (like Pastric) destroyed a perfectly good set of bushings trying to heavy hammer them in...I have another set and really dont want to ruin them too.... I was really just planning on heating the hell out of the frame....I didn't think about freezing the bushings! Quote Link to comment
Freaky320 Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) heat!!!! get out your torch and heat the metal around the bushing put some crisco and set it in dry ice then slide it in like you do the old lady:cool: it will be nice and warm and the crisco works better when it warms up Edited December 17, 2008 by Freaky320 tard kant spel Quote Link to comment
datsun76_620 Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Fellas... 1st Thanks for the help! Just saved me another $20ea!! :thumbup: Well here's what you need to do it right: The Biggest help I found was: THE MORE HEAT THE BETTER!!! Removal: -Heat up the outside bushing sleeve (the frame section not the bushing itself) -As you add heat the rubber in the bushing will start to melt. (This is good....ADD MORE HEAT!) Make sure that if you didn't take off the frame crossmember that you heat the back of the sleve through the little hole in the frame. -The trick here is to get enough rubber out of the way that you can drive the inner bushing section far enough in so your 1-1/4 bushing driver (Harbor Freight) will contact the outer metal bushing section without gouging the sleeve! -> -Now take your 3-5 lb sledge and whack the F#&* out of it! It will take time, muscle, and Patience....(the ones I was taking out were only in for 3mos!!!....Not to mention 30 Years!!) -Add MORE heat to the frame as you go....whacking and making sure that you don't gouge the sleve....(oops...repeating myself.... :blink:) -It will come out eventually......Make sure you burn and clean the inside of the sleeve before you go for replacement....and...KEEP IT HOT!!! Replacement: (here's where I played "The Flash"!!!:cool:) -Take you brand new bushing out of the freezer (YEP! Heat expands...cold contracts!!!) -Slop the bushing with Assembly Lube (someone else suggested crisco...???) -Hand set the bushing on the sleeve so it will go in straight -Take your SOFT 2x4 and the sledge you used earlier and drive it in! (Now if it was only that easy!!!?????) -You will probably only get it in 1/2 way until the bushing starts heating up...NO Problem I Say!!!! -Now take you trusty Crafstman 28mm 1/2 drive socket ( I used a Japanese KTZ 28mm because it had a flatter surface on the open side, but the Crafstman will work) and CAREFULLY drive the bushing in the rest of the way by striking the socket on the outer section of the bushing with your sledge....(you DON'T need as much force as you think!!!! Just nice deliberate strikes - maybe just over a tap -) -The key in the last step is to NOT strike the inner / rubber section of the bearing with ANYTHING! (the soft wood didn't do any damage...) -Drive it until it is set equally on both sides and you are done!!!! :) The Final Result: Quote Link to comment
nosh1t Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 i know nuthing but this http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=1050&page=5 check it out micheal made a jig to put his jack in to do it seems like a good way to me Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 Here is how I did it. My arms are swore... Quote Link to comment
zenndog Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 Thats why the rat in the Ratsun logo has such a big round head. It is full o brains, fo thinkin' Bravo sir, bravo!:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment
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