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My Dragon Datsun 521

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Try to pull straight out or you'll crush the plastic pinion gear. It's mounted on an eccentric. I leave the cable on (though loosened) and pull on it while wiggling very slightly, with vice grips.  

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I have been doing body work, and painting the left door, and fenders I am going put on Dragon soon.  This is the left door inside.  Most of the window frame of the door has been painted, but the exterior door skin still has some dents and minor low spots.



I have been working on the fenders I am going to put on Dragon.  Both right and left fenders have had a lot of metal work done to them, then I cleaned then both down to bare metal, inside and out, sprayed PPG DP40LF epoxy primer on them, then a surfacer, and a guide coat, then sanded the guide coat off.  This reviled some high and low spots I missed. 



I metal worked the fenders some more, and again a coat of epoxy primer.



This is the right fender, again sprayed with a coat of surfacer.


And then the fenders were sprayed with a light guide coat again.




Now, back to door work.  I need to have the doors on the cab, to fit the fenders.  This is the door that I have already painted the inside and window frame of, and I needed to repair some shallow dents and dings in the outside door skin.  

When I was much younger,  I thought it was OK to apply plastic body filler to bare metal.  I also heard this was a bad idea, you should an epoxy primer on bare metal, and let it cure, then apply plastic body filler.   

Since I have had Dragon since the 1970's, and have done previous work on it, I am finding that a lot of areas that I put plastic body filler on have the filler coming off, and rust under the filler, on the what was bare metal.  I am my own dreaded previous owner.



This is a closer look at one of the areas with filler applied, and sanded down.  i have sanded down to bare metal in a few spots, so guess what.  



Another coat of PPG DP40LF epoxy primer.


The epoxy primer has a 24 hour wait time to apply plastic body filler to it.  I wanted to do other work in the garage, and needed to put this door somewhere else.  I also had some other doors that need work in the garage, taking up space, and in the way.  I came up with this idea.




the door for Dragon is farthest back.



While the epoxy primer on the door was curing, I did some more work on the roof of Dragon.  I sanded this area down until I just touched metal again,



and sprayed another coat of PPG DP40 LF on that area.



I had some extra primer left, and sprayed primer on a rear hood brace after I cleaned it.



TRtDoorFiller2ndCoat.JPGhe next day, some more filler on the door.




Edited by DanielC

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It has been almost 10 months since I last added to this thread, I have been doin a little work on Dragon, but not a lot in the winter, since Dragon needed some work with plastic filler, and primer and paint and it was too cold.  In the spring, I need to do a lot of work on my farm.


Anyway, this is a picture from September 2018.  This was sanded down, reprimed, and has been sitting.



Dragon has not had a left door for a while.  I finally got door in the post above sanded, primed, and painted.  The door was painted with Axalta Centari acrylic enamel, with 793 overall hardener. The Datsun paint code is 558. or Axalta code 31025.



This is some lightweight insulation I put in the door.  I cut these four pieces to fit on the inside of the door skin.



This is the spray glue I use to glue the insulation in the door.  You spray the glue on the tow surfaces you want to stick together, wait about 5 or ten minutes, and then press the two surfaces together.



Insulation glued in top rear corner of the door.  I needed to cut more insulation away from the key cylinder hole, and the holes for the outside door release handle.





There is a door brace about 2/3 of the way down on the door.  When I was doing body work on the door, I put some seam sealer between the door skin, and the brace.  Reattaching the brace with seam sealer really helps stiffen up the door skin, making it much easier to sand primer and surfacer prior to painting the door.  The insulation and brace reattachment make the door sound a lot less 'tinny" or rattly when you close the door. 



I had cleaned up and painted the door hinges a while ago. I bolted the hinges on the door just by making a wild guess, and approximately centering the hinges in the middle of their adjustment range in and out, up and down.  I then got more bolts (5/16-24) that bolt the door hinges to the door post on the cab, and put the bolts where I could reach them, while holding the door on the cab.  While holding the door on the cab, I reached in to the cab, and put one bolt in the bottom and the top hinge to hold the door.  This would have been a bit easier, but I did not chase the threads on the door hinges.   With two bolts holding the door. I chased the threads in the other bolt holes, and put those bolts in.


This is the door on the cab, last thing I did before I had to go to work that day.



The next day, I did a minor adjustment on the door fit to the cab.  The only major problem was the door was too low in the back.  This is an easy fix.  I loosened two of the three bolts holding the lower hinge to the door post, and three of the four bolts holding the upper hinge.

then I loosened the last bolt on the upper hinge a little, but left it still slightly snug, and just barely loosened the last bolt on the lower hinge.  Then I could lift the rear of the door, the upper hinge bolt would slide a little bit, and the lower hinge bolt would be a pivot.  I held the door closed, no door catch in the door yet, and it looked good, and I tightened the hinge bolts again.   So now I have a door on the cab, but no guts in the door, yet.  Not even window run channel. (felt)


This is the window run channel I use on a 521. 



The wing window had the forward window run channel in it.  It is just a straight run.    I used this adhesive to hold the Mygrant run channel above in the groove.


the other end of the box, with part number.


Mygrant run channel in wing window.



You need to cut the rear window run channel to length, and make two 45 degree cuts in the run channel at the back top of the door.  I start to measure the run channel from the wing window, and go back across the top of the door, then down the rear guide channel.  you need to put the wing window in the door.  The wing window goes in the door like this.  As you lower the wing window into the door,  you can slide the lower end into position, and then the top of the wing window will slide forward.



In this picture, I am holding the top of the wing window forward, and I made a small mark where the top and rear run channel will be. Notice I left it a little long.



I have put the Mygrant run channel in the door in this picture, but I have pulled it out again.  At the top, and back of the door, I cut two 45 degree notches in the sides of the run channel, so the channel fits the top corner of the door.  The channel is not glued in yet



After cutting and fitting the run channel in the door, I put the sliding window in temporarily, and made sure it slid up and down in the rear channel without a lot of drag.  Without the wing window in the door, the sliding glass goes in to the door pretty easily.




You need a piece of string for the next step.  In my case, I used a piece of hay baling twine.



This is how I hook the string on the window.


The window is lowered to the bottom of the door



With the sliding window in the bottom of the door, and slid back into the rear run channel, you can put the wing window, with the front run channel into the door.  As you slide the wing window in place, make sure you put the front run channel over the top front corner of the sliding glass.


The sliding glass in down all the way in the bottom of the door.  notice the string in the picture, pulling up on the string raises the sliding window.  The window should slide up without a lot of drag, it is does not, make sure the sliding window in in the run channel both front and back.   Use a flash light to look into the door id necessary.



Here the sliding window is slid part way up, and is moving easily. with some drag.  I raised the window all the way up to check the run channel fit in the door.



A picture of the front of the sliding window.


The sliding window hanging on the string.



I have not yet used any glue on the run channel, all this is just checking the fit and moving of the window.  I have had some sliding windows move with too much drag in some other doors I have put together, and I am trying to figure out why.  I think I have figured it out, and will explain in my next post, where I contiue to put this door together.   The wing window, and the sliding window will need to come out of the door to glue the weather strip to the door.

Edited by DanielC
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After you have confirmed the sliding window moves easily, with some drag, you then lower the sliding window to the bottom of the door, and then tilt the wing window top toward the rear, and remove the wing window from the door.  Then you can remove the sliding window out of the door, and remove the Mygrant run channel to glue it in.

I applied a bead of the 3M weatherstrip adhesive to the bottom of the run channel, not on the edges.  I then spread the bead across the width of the bottom of the run channel with the side of the nozzle on the adhesive tube.  If you get the adhesive on your fingers, it will be difficult to get off, but it will wear off in a few days.  You can wear gloves, but the glove tends to get stuck in the adhesive.  Do not try to do the whole weatherstrip at once, but do smaller sections.



This is a small piece of wood building shim, cut off at about the same width as the sliding window glass.  I use it to push the Mygrant run channel completely to the bottom of the groove in the door, and on the wing window.  



Glue the run channel all the way across the top, starting from the rear corner, making sure the notches you cut for the top rear corner are at the top rear corner, and not below, or forward of the rear corner.  Again, start at the rear corner, and work forward, and then from the rear corner work down gluing the run channel in small sections.



After the run channel is glued in, put the sliding window with a string in the bottom of the door, and then put the wing window in, making sure the sliding window is in the rear channel, and you put the wind window channel over the front top corner of the sliding glass.

This looks just like another picture, but now the window run channel is glued into the door.



Slide the top of the wing window forward,


then put the wing window screws in.  The top screw is a machine screw, the bottom three screws are tapping screws.  The screws that came out of this door were rusty, I replaced the rusty screws with stainless screws.  The top screw is a #8-32 thread, about 3/8 or maybe 1/2 of an inch long.  The bottom three screws are #8 tapping screws.



After the four top screws that hold the wing window are in, you may be tempted to put the two screws in to the door that hold the bottom of the front run channel.  Stop.  Do not put these two screws in yet.  The sliding window regulator arm goes in between the inside door skin, and the run channel.


Both windows are in the door, the weather strip is glued in, and the sliding window can be moved easily with the string.  Move the sliding window close to the top of the door, and use the string to tie it up.


Put the window regulator in the door, through the rear hole in the door.



Move the window regulator forward, lift the wing window channel away from the inside of the door, and slip the regulator arm under the wing window channel.



Hold the sliding window, and untie it, and lower it so you can see the slot the end of the regulator arm slides in.



Put the roller on the end of the regulator arm in the slot,



Put the crank post on the front end of the window regulator through its hole.  Do not worry about aligning the screws holes for the regulator, yet.



Tie the window regulator arm to hold the window in the door, the exact position is not critical.



The screw holes will probably not line up.



Put the crank handle on the window regulator, and turn the crank until a screw hole lines up, put that screw in loosely.  Turn the crank a little more and put the rest of the screws in the regulator. 



Then untie the string holding the sliding window, and roll the window up.  Do not roll the window down, you can easily roll the window down too far, and the sliding window will come off the roller on the end of the regulator arm.


Now you can put the front run channel screws in the door, top,


and bottom.



This is the window stop.  Put it in the door.  Check the operation of the sliding window.



With the window regulator in the door, you can put in the door catch and lock mechanism.

However, the door mechanism, unless you have already cleaned and put fresh grease on it need that first.  The grease that was put on it when the truck was made 50 years ago had had 50 years to decompose, and collect dirt, and harden.  I used mineral spirits to clean the lock mechanism, and the interior door release.




This is the grease I used on the door mechanism.



I moved the parts of the lock mechanism around as I pushed the grease under the parts as much as I could.



Like the window regulator, you slide the door release and lock mechanism into the door through the larger hole in the rear of the door. 



The door catch mechanism going in the door.



The door catch mechanism in the door, and placed in the hole it fits in.



This is a picture of the door catch, without screws,



you can put the screws in, and tighten them.



Just a quick not on adjusting the door.  The door latch in the door should NOT move the back of the door up or down as the door is closed.  The height of the back of the door is controlled by the adjustment of the door hinges.  The door catch is only to hold the door closed against cab.  The door catch on the cab rear door post can be ajusted up and down, in and out.   Adjust up and down to not move or hold the height of the rear of the door.  Adjust in and out to hold the rear of the door against the door weatherstrip, and to match the depth of the door to the cab.

Edited by DanielC
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With the door catch mechanism screwed in the back of the door, you can put the front release handle in the door.


The strut that goes to the lower right corner of this picture hangs below the forward release handle.  put the two screws in that hold the forward mechanism to the door, and put the handle on.


Put the outside release handle in the door,


Center the outside release handle in the opening, and put the nuts on the posts that hold the handle to the door.



This is the lock cylinder installed in the door.  The lock cylinder is held by the rusty clip that holds the cylinder to the door, it just slides under some tabs on the lock cylinder.   There is also a hairpin clip that holds a short lever that goes to a rod on the door catch mechanism.  Carefully put this hairpin clip in place, it is really easy to drop into the door and lose it.



I then put the window crank on the door.



Take out the sliding window stop again.  you need to lower the sliding window just below the edge of the door, to get the fuzzy strips that are right on the window glass.


These are the slots in the top outside of the door that hold the four clips on each side that hold the fuzzy weatherstrip in the door.


These are the slots in the top inside of the door that hold the four clips on each side that hold the fuzzy weatherstrip in the door.  note the sliding window is just below the edge of the door.  The sliding window is very close to coming off the roller on the end of the window regulator arm. 


This is the clip that holds the glass weatherstrip to the door.  the tab held in the needle nose pliers  is bent away from the body of the clip.  That needs to be bent closer to the clip body.



You just bend the tab by holding the tab with the pliers, and pushing the two outside legs of the clip closer to the center tab.  this is the same clip as above, after bending it.



The center tab on the clip slides into the slot in the top of the window opening.



Finally, the glass weatherstrip can be slid into the two small legs of the weatherstrip clip.  Start at one end, holding the fuzzy weatherstrip at a slight angle, and push the weatherstrip into all four clips.  Repeat the same process for the second glass weatherstrip.



I have not gotten the inside door upholstery cards redone yet, so at this point, I am done with the door.


Edited by DanielC
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