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VintageRice

EPIC DIY $20 Camber Plates RATSUN STYLE ! ! !

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fully agree. i have been going there since i was a little guy and he has always been there with the same classical music playin.

Holy crap another Arlington, wa 510 ! Horray! What car is yours? Have I seen you around?

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Forward this to tristangrind

you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:P

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Look... I'm just a machinist... I don't know what you expect me to do about... Oh wait.

 

 

:rofl:

 

So are people looking for sets? - is that the gist of what's going on in here?

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But with the tires already being to close to the footwell (only made worse by a severely lowered car), wouldn't it be better to add caster by pulling the bottoms forward?

 

 

Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height. It would not be a one size fits all. For my combination I will be using adjustable T/C rods but I wouldn't mind some increased caster from the upper mount moved rearward.

 

One other relatively low cost alternative would be 240SX camber plates. Cheap eBay ones can be found for about $75. Its not as resourceful as making your own steel plates for $20 but they do have an integrated bearing.

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Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height. It would not be a one size fits all. For my combination I will be using adjustable T/C rods but I wouldn't mind some increased caster from the upper mount moved rearward.

 

One other relatively low cost alternative would be 240SX camber plates. Cheap eBay ones can be found for about $75. Its not as resourceful as making your own steel plates for $20 but they do have an integrated bearing.

 

Same bolt pattern as 510?

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yes, they have the same 3 bolt pattern. Here is a picture of mine:

75B7B783-C708-446C-B9DB-2A40B5A25F7E-6491-00000EEC3E14A552.jpg

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Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height.

 

Yes, but if your car is low enough, and the tires are the right diameter, they rub. :rofl:

 

At stock ride height the TC rod goes from a high point (radiator support) to a low point (LCA). When you lower the car even a little bit, it flattens out. Thus making it effectively longer. And it pushes the wheel back, into the footwell.

 

If nothing else, this needs to be addressed just to maintain something akin to the stock geometry. :thumbup:

 

Tilting the top back, while increasing caster, doesn't address the "problem".

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Yes, but if your car is low enough, and the tires are the right diameter, they rub. :rofl:

 

At stock ride height the TC rod goes from a high point (radiator support) to a low point (LCA). When you lower the car even a little bit, it flattens out. Thus making it effectively longer. And it pushes the wheel back, into the footwell.

 

If nothing else, this needs to be addressed just to maintain something akin to the stock geometry. :thumbup:

 

Tilting the top back, while increasing caster, doesn't address the "problem".

 

On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells. I think most folks max out in the 5°-6° range.

 

Vintage, why not do both?

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Becouse the grant steering wheel adapter can't take it :(

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On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells. I think most folks max out in the 5°-6° range.

 

Vintage, why not do both?

 

Cause drilling round holes is ez. Slots are not.

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Drill 2 sets of holes instead of a slot? Then its got 2 castor settings.

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On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells.

 

If you spend enough time on a track with high speed sweepers, you wouldn't think that. But few 510 owners do, so... ^_^

 

"Too much" caster means when the wheel is turned, the contact patch gets smaller. Look at 80s/90s Mercedes (which run a shit ton of caster) when the wheels are turned all the way. Almost looks like it's laying the tire on it's sidewall. :o

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If you spend enough time on a track with high speed sweepers, you wouldn't think that. But few 510 owners do, so... ^_^

 

"Too much" caster means when the wheel is turned, the contact patch gets smaller. Look at 80s/90s Mercedes (which run a shit ton of caster) when the wheels are turned all the way. Almost looks like it's laying the tire on it's sidewall. :o

 

Depends on how much static camber you run. If you've got too much static camber, as you turn the wheel and the body rolls, then yeah, it's possible that it could be too much. One of the major benefits of caster, in addition to the steering feedback, is the camber gain with steering angle. This allows you to run less static camber. This can reduce camber thrust, improve straight line braking, etc. With anything, yeah, you can overdo it, but 5° of caster isn't all that extreme IMHO.

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Now that I think of it, John, I think you and I have had this conversation before. Via email in response to a bb list post I think? I don't remember what we came up with though...

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Now that I think of it, John, I think you and I have had this conversation before.

 

There is no telling... :rofl:

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B0833FA4-0624-4799-ABCA-E45074D87F54-9331-00000B3DCB9F0F06.jpg

 

Got these in the mail, went to napa got two big washers the size of the stock 510 tophat bearings, used the washers between the bearings and the tophats just for more surface area contact. Didnt like that small area of the top of the top hat riding on the plastic part of the bearing. All together, went for a test drive and it seems alot more stable driving down the road and also more responsive. Seems to want to center itself better now rather than pulling one way or the other. Best part is my front is no longer higher than the rear. Looks and rides great. I just hope the rigidly mounted struts hold up. Think they will though.

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drill the hole in your plate bigger and run the stud bushings for a sock. that should give you the flex you need for a couple bucks.

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drill the hole in your plate bigger and run the stud bushings for a sock. that should give you the flex you need for a couple bucks.

 

What bushings?  Post pic of what you mean.  I shud get something in there.

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Maybe just having the hole in the plate a few thousandths over would allow for the strut to move a bit without it binding or rattling. Skateboard truck bushings or generic swaybar bushings might be trimmed to fit.? Keep us up on this, I like where your going.

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using my phone so pain to post pics, but the shocks that have a stud at the end. they run a washer, rubber, mounting point, rubber, washer, then nut. my rear shocks on my 720 run them on the bottom mount. can someone post a pic for me please. it looks like a cheap easy fix, my favorite type

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good cause to post a pic i have to type out the link myself, no paste with phone on this forum. last time took me 4 trys and someone else to do it for me. and as cheap as you made those you could do 2 more, a degree more and less, adjustable. just swap plates. i love the idea of your camber plates

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