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A little too much for the L16?


slowmomiata

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Most headers I seen leak and all Rust with in 6 months unless you spend the 100-150 to ceramic coat it.

 

long tube headers suck on a lowered car. Or hit the floor when installed on a L20B

the short tube ones I like the but the hole dont line up and wiggle around.So I never installed mine.

 

Best it to ceramic coat the stock exhaust manifold. Dont leak and last forever.

 

But what do we know on here.

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seems like you all know alot and im playing catch up,

i was in the mazda scene before this and hated on

what i now own lol, nissan haha, but i want the header

for looks, i am not building a street light to street light

ricecar, i want a clean looking dd cruiser

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well to update MIkes above photo

Just turn the black paint in to Orange /red rust then youll have your looks and maybe even some nice leaks if they didnt have a flat piece of steel stock.

also soem of these shsort mainfold could hit the steering arm on full cock. Not that it would matter all that much.

 

stock manifold dont cost anything just get Cermainc coated and that can be your Bling.

 

datsuns you need to be dedicated to them. They break all the time.

If yourused to a newer car like a Miata you might be going backwards. Its just alot of learnign on these. As a Young guy your think your beating the system. These are suck old tech motors that buy spending alot of money doesnt always give better HP. if anything your just going back to the stock performance and it wasnt running right in the first place.

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datsuns you need to be dedicated and maintain them or they break all the time..

 

 

They are 40+ years old so something has to be wearing out every week. Well, not that bad but when something does go wrong you can at least fix it yourself.

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Yes they break

3 motor swap 2 trans swaps , rears seals both sides 2 alternators or maybe 3

3 volt regs

1 front trans seal

2 set breaks

2 rear wheel cyliners also drums

3 slaves cyklinders

2 break master

2 clutch masters

1 speedo cable

2 dizzys

1 front cover bad

 

My 510 hasnt been done for long time since most has been replaced already.

 

 

Miata to a 40yr old car will be a different.!!!!!!!have tools ready

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2 alternators or maybe 3

3 volt regs

1 front trans seal

2 set breaks

2 rear wheel cyliners also drums

3 slaves cyklinders

2 break master

2 clutch masters

1 speedo cable

2 dizzys

 

 

Front cover-corrosion i'll bet is from lack of maintenance

 

 

Those are all wear items.

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i just bought an l20b but its gonna need a rebuild and a new cam,

it sat outside for some years, i pulled the valve cover off and the

cam had more than surface rust, i havent pulled it all the way apart

yet.

 

i already have done a full tune up and adjusted my valve lash, i feel

like the car will never fail me haha, it seems to always start and drive

well, soon i am doing the zx front struts and lower the back, but i want to

update and do bolt ons for the l16, i really am in the need of a new alt

swap, i am still doing my research on that, i guess i will keep the exhaust

mani stock and weld up a 2" header back to a muffler, i havent decided on

what muffler to do yet or what style tip, but i will figure that out later when i

buy the pipes.

 

i installed a tach, oil pressure gauge, and water temp ( stock water temp

quit working, i cleaned the connection but got nothing :( ) and i had my

idle set way to high haha it was at about 2200, i have it at a 1000 now,

it sounds alot healthier haha. my oil pressure is surprisingly good, warmed

up at idle its about 18-20 psi, and driving its about 65psi, i take it those figures

are a good thing. the temp sits at 185 and doesnt budge, is that a little too cold

for it to be wamed up? just wondering what normal temp is.

 

before i do the zx front strut swap, why do people recommend the zx mc? i never

can really find an answer as to why to use it, is it just easier to stop because its

a bigger cylinder since the calipers are bigger? if i leave my stock mc in is it just

gonna be a little harder to stop, because right now my brakes stop on a dime, i have

no issues with stopping even with the 16x8 xxrs on it, so i almost feel like the zx mc

isnt needed???

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larger cylinder, more fluid= better brakes. but as you increase the cylinder size, it takes more pedal effort.

 

Sorta.The MC is matched(size wise) to the capacity of the calipers & rear cylinders to provide enough fluid.Gross mis-matching would let the MC run dry during application with mileage on the pads.

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so what youre saying is, the reservoir on the stock one

wont have as much fluid capacity so as the pads wear

it will need more fluid in the lines? couldnt i just fill it as

i go as the pads wear? i dont have a problem with

stepping harder on the brakes

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You can check if your coolant temp gauge works by grounding the wire that goes to the sensor, if your gauge goes max when that wire is grounded then your sensor is bad.

Looks like this VVVV

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Temp-Switch-Nissan-Datsun-240z-260z-280z-310-510-/360261138292?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e13cb774&vxp=mtr

 

May not be as accurate as your new gauge but whatever :P

 

Some people claim success using the stock MC with Zx struts... I would say try it on your stock MC and see how you like it, but have some dough present for a zx master just in case

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so what youre saying is, the reservoir on the stock one

wont have as much fluid capacity so as the pads wear

it will need more fluid in the lines? couldnt i just fill it as

i go as the pads wear? i dont have a problem with

stepping harder on the brakes

 

If you're anal about checking it'll work.

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ya i am definitely anal about checking everything all the time,

and if i didnt get a piece of metal in my eye i would be working

on the car right now, but looks like tomorrow will be partly spent

going to the damn eye doctor, then strut swapping time and i

will post pics of my gauges and struts when on

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