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Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project


Atomic

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You could try adapting an aftermarket unit? Something like this?

 

008568_LG.jpg

 

 

Wilwood and several others offer a 7/8 single circuit master cylinder you could use as a clutch master.  :thumbup:

thanks for the hint :) I will take a look for some of those! My most expensive part is coming: clutch, 400-700€ + megasquirt and sensors 800€ + injectors 100-200€. So I need to gather some more money

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Sup.

 

20131129_200226_1__by_atomicsickness-d6w

Starting to blast some parts again

20131129_200232_1__by_atomicsickness-d6w

I need to mod this thing and cut half of the rubber because the new springs came up with another type of attachment and I need to mod some parts to get things fit together. My only problem is that I'm wondering that this rubber is supposed to protect the upper bearing. So Do I need to leave some wall to it?

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Got the motor off the ground.

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Going to block the ignition and fuel pump holes.

 

I did some repairing to brake system too, but I didn't take any pictures. I can take some when I get some paint for 'em.

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The top hat rubber is an isolater for the suspension and allows proper movement for the bearing.

 

Which springs did you buy? 210 aftermarket springs e.g. Moog brand should have the right ends.

Got some pictures in this thread if you go some pages backwards. They are aftermarket ones. I'm not going to remove the whole rubber shielding, going to leave the bearing down there. I can attach more pictures next weekend if needed.

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By the way, what rear diffs would you guys suggest for my turbo project? I'm planning to get disc brakes for the back too (need to change the master cylinder too then). Because I made some calculations and found out that even my H150 datsun diff ( estimated 130 lb ft. )could not handle the calculated torque ( around 150-170 lb ft. )

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I think the disc brake 200SX diff is stronger (H190 maybe?) and you can use one of the RX7 rear ends to get discs and LSD. I've been looking into toyota rear ends though and I'm thinking of going with a corolla setup. There are quite a few places around here that will build custom setups around the corolla rear ends because they are so popular. You can get pretty much any gear set you want, LSD, disc brakes, 4 or 5 lug ect. It just has a lot of options.

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Oh, forgot to mention that it would be the best if it would have the same bolt pattern as the original.

And was it that LSD is driving both axels at the exact torque? If so, would it adviced to use it for track purpose or drag race? (With lsd, harder to corner?) Correct if wrong

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LSD is easy to corner because it is limited slip.

 

Use no-slip for drag racing e.g. a spool welded differential gears. But makes it harder to corner. Use an air locker for the ability to turn for street use.

 

The H165 with discs can handle more torque thank that. Plus it bolts right in and has the correct wheel bolt pattern.

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LSD is easy to corner because it is limited slip.

Use no-slip for drag racing e.g. a spool welded differential gears. But makes it harder to corner. Use an air locker for the ability to turn for street use.

The H165 with discs can handle more torque thank that. Plus it bolts right in and has the correct wheel bolt pattern.

Thanks man :) are those easy to find and what is the prize tag? + how's the handbrake attachment?

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Yes easy to find through a parts hotline. Sometimes $150 but most yards will charge more.

 

Hand brake is similar but requires minor fabrication to adapt. Same with the brake lines.

 

The stock B310 master cylinder works fine with all disc brakes. Only change it if you want more or less pedal effort. Unbolting the residual valve is the only change needed.

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Wow, over 9000 views on this thread :w00t:

 

I have some new pictures coming up:

 

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I started to machine some parts. Attached a bolt and 2 nuts to get it on the lathe(on the background, which is actually made in Finland and my father's grandfather was designing it, and he owned it. And now I'm using it :) )

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20131206_223200_1__by_atomicsickness-d6wPerfect fit I would say :) 1-1,5mm of space between. Should protect from some dust~

 

And now to do the same for the other -->

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Wow, A15 with a lot of power :o

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1hyZmC2i_Y

 

''ARIAS FORGED PISTONS, SPOOL CA18 H BEAM RODS, MONOTORQUE HEAD GASKET, ARP HEADSTUD KIT, ROLLMASTER TIMING KIT. ALL BLOCK, CAM & LIFTERS, CRANK & CYLINDER HEAD MACHINING DONE AT ARTHUR JOHNSTON ENGINEERING IN GREENACRE (NSW). HALTECH EFI, GARRET TURBO, IGNITION SYSTEM & MANIFOLDS SUPPLIED FITTED & TUNED BY MICK AT MICKS MOTORSPORT IN GREENACRE (NSW)

''

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Wow... That's amazing. Now you have a goal to beat :)

 

So are you still planning on EFI? I keep thinking about it cause bog bros will make either a carb manifold for R1s or an EFI manifold for the same price. Just slightly intimidated by megasquirt, but I've been researching that more as well.

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Wow... That's amazing. Now you have a goal to beat :)

 

So are you still planning on EFI? I keep thinking about it cause bog bros will make either a carb manifold for R1s or an EFI manifold for the same price. Just slightly intimidated by megasquirt, but I've been researching that more as well.

Haha, not sure if I want to beat that, would just ruin my motor and it would last one summer, haha.

 

Yeah, going to order megasquirt. I got VE map from a friend of mine and I will start tuning with using it as a start. I'm considering if I should go straight to 180hp or stick to my 160hp.. Dunno :/ My biggest problem would be the header design. Need pvc piping for a sketch model. And this project is going slowly because I can work with my car only on weekends and holidays. Gladly there is only 2 weeks till next holiday.

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Oh, and I bought some parts from ebay:

 

b6_1.JPG

Rubber seal for my windshield

!B7(CD,!CGk~$(KGrHqEOKkUEzHjyRCezBMz9mO5

New engine mounts(old rubbers were cracked up)

!B7(KpTQ!mk~$(KGrHqMOKjcEycdM8Hz+BMz-DM0

Front suspension bush kit, new.

$(KGrHqJHJEkFH-qh4RkOBSDuCWn81w~~60_57.J

And Datsun emblem to block the mechanical fuel pump hole 

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I know you already have your pistons and have them coated, but I figured I would share the information I got back on having some custom forgies made. With a bore of 76-78mm Venolia will make custom forged pistons for $92 each. This does not include the rings or pins, but if you send them a stock piston they will match the pin size and you can get stock replacement pins and rings for 76-77mm pistons. Keep up the good work :)

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I know you already have your pistons and have them coated, but I figured I would share the information I got back on having some custom forgies made. With a bore of 76-78mm Venolia will make custom forged pistons for $92 each. This does not include the rings or pins, but if you send them a stock piston they will match the pin size and you can get stock replacement pins and rings for 76-77mm pistons. Keep up the good work :)

Good that you share the knowledge :) I considered about the forged pistons, but since they expand more and characteristic of needing slightly greater wall clearance. With larger wall clearances you can destroy a piston in small increments during the engine warm up cycle.

 

RULE. "Do not rush to the forged piston store every time a turbo engine needs preparation"

I love Maximum boost book ;)

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This weekend has more pictures than ever before! Behold my creations, hahhah...

 

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Cut a 'dead' fire extinguisher with no, or low pressure, clean it up and we have a plenum :)

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It has roughly 2,3 liters of velocity and should suit well.

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Aluminium right?

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Attach it right... here..

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From back

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Other angle.

 

 

So the big question here is: should I weld it straight to the intake manifold, or make some kind of spacer so it could be removable. (kinda moral question, do you guys hate me if I 'ruin' the good old manifold with this plenum) :confused:  :blush:  

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