Atomic Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Love this build keep it going man! Thanks dude! Loving your build too! :) Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Today I read some maximum boost again. So here are some interesting calculations: "Of known dyno runs on piston engines with a variety of turbo systems, the lowest output we have achieved is .052 bhp/cid psi and the highest is 0.77bhp/cid psi. The variance is due to the engines' basic designs. To guess at the output of your own engine, choose a logical boost level and multiply each of the two values by both displacement in cubic inches and boost pressure plus 14.7." Example: A 350 cid engine with 10 psi boost. Lower value: = 0.052 x 350 x (10+14,7) = 449 bhp Higher value: = 0.077 x 350 x (10+14,7) = 666 bhp So in my case: 1488cm³ = 90.803in³ and 0.8bar = 11.60304psi Lower value: = 0.052 x 90.8 x (11.6 +14.7) = 124 bhp Higher value: = 0.077 x 90.8 x (11.6 +14.7) = 184 bhp Conclusion: So I'm hoping that I will reach my 160 bhp at the dyno run when this engine is completed! If I'm going crazy with 1bar boost Lower value:= 0.052 x 90.8(14.5+14.7) = 137 bhp Higher value: 0.077 x 90.8(14.5+14.7) = 204 bhp Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 A12 can make 160hp with stock block and stock A14 head, no problem as long as it not allowed to run lean 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Back to our donor car: Beaten up pretty badly :/ The head was in great condition, unlike the other one. Corrosion has done its work here again... One valve was stuck and I lubricated it and it returned to normal position :) The donor head and the one in progress. And last but not least, it was fathers day so my father and I went to event, where people were selling car and bike parts. I also found this nice t-shirt + datsun mechanic hat. I'm so sorry for the blurry images :( Replacement camera is just so bad at macro zooming. I get more parts next week, hope to see you guys again soon, cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 UPS What the... delivery problems/delay caused by sender CORRECT STREET NEEDED NOT DELIVERED, UPS INTERNAL ACTIVITY CODE 11.11.13 16:01 HELSINKI Delivery Attempt Delivery Attempt 11.11.13 16:01 Out for Delivery Estimated to Arrive (En Route), Destination 11.11.13 04:37 HELSINKI Out for Delivery Estimated to Arrive (En Route), Destination 11.11.13 04:35 HELSINKI In Transit with Destination Carrier ARRIVAL SCAN 10.11.13 22:10 HELSINKI, FI Even though all the information and street address is correct.. Need to call them.. I want my ARP head studs ;( Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 What do you guys suggest? Racing clutch or normal? I'm not going to make burnouts, but I'm definitely going to get some lap times with this build. And for now, going with normal 4-speed tranny. Btw, parts finally arrived. For some reason UPS didn't get our billing information and needed to make a call for them. Oh, and does B310 coupe and B310 wagon share the same hood? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 What do you guys suggest? Racing clutch or normal? How often do you want to change it? B) Oh, and does B310 coupe and B310 wagon share the same hood? All the front end sheetmetal is the same regardless of body style. What you have to watch for is year. There's an early front and a late front. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 How often do you want to change it? B) All the front end sheetmetal is the same regardless of body style. What you have to watch for is year. There's an early front and a late front. Well, not very often, haha. But should I try with the normal clutch or just buy one racing clutch instead? Oh, I found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATSUN-1200-NISMO-Metal-Clutch-Disk-NISSAN-A12-A14-A15-B110-B310-UTE-SUNNY-/251316033662?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a839a587e and it tells me that I should buy this cover with it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATSUN-1200-NISMO-Racing-Clutch-Cover-NISSAN-A12-A14-A15-B110-B310-UTE-SUNNY-/261260196525?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd4523aad But it's kinda optional, what do you think? Should I be able to just buy the racing clutch and rock with the old clutch cover? And thanks for the answer :) Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Well, not very often, haha. But should I try with the normal clutch or just buy one racing clutch instead? Oh, I found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATSUN-1200-NISMO-Metal-Clutch-Disk-NISSAN-A12-A14-A15-B110-B310-UTE-SUNNY-/251316033662?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a839a587e and it tells me that I should buy this cover with it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATSUN-1200-NISMO-Racing-Clutch-Cover-NISSAN-A12-A14-A15-B110-B310-UTE-SUNNY-/261260196525?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd4523aad But it's kinda optional, what do you think? Should I be able to just buy the racing clutch and rock with the old clutch cover? Well, the clutch disc is what really makes it "aggressive". The cover you mentioned just has a higher seat pressure. Basically this: "Race" disc if you plan to drag race (more resistance to shock loads) "Race" cover if you are worried about extra horsepower making the clutch slip (stronger "grip"). Both to cover all your bases, or to be the coolest kid on your block. B) And that disc has a sprung hub so it's not really a "full race" clutch. Those usually have sold hubs. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Heavy duty street clutch (note springs): Full race clutch {note no springs): 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Well, the clutch disc is what really makes it "aggressive". The cover you mentioned just has a higher seat pressure. Basically this: "Race" disc if you plan to drag race (more resistance to shock loads) "Race" cover if you are worried about extra horsepower making the clutch slip (stronger "grip"). Both to cover all your bases, or to be the coolest kid on your block. B) And that disc has a sprung hub so it's not really a "full race" clutch. Those usually have sold hubs. :thumbup: Thanks dude :) Yeah, I'm not so much into ''full race clutch'' so I might go with the heavy duty street clutch. And I asked some local shop to make me a clutch that suits for my needs, and they offered a custom made clutch : 200 hv/350 Nm CG Cerametallic Heavy duty five-bladed race clutch frame with spring-loaded hub and ceramic coated friction pads. and they will balance my flywheel and the friction surface will be machined. €695 (includes shipping) vs. the ebay one that i was linked before. (both clutch and the cover) €530 (includes shipping) What do you think? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Hi guys, another question here: when I have my new stiffer clutch, would I be able to get bigger master/slave cylinder so that the clutch would be lightweight again? Adding some pictures today --> Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Pictures: Why can't they cut these so that the holes would mach? ARP studs in place... Rocker studs destroyed... So yeah.. I was tightening these bolts with a torque wrench to their specific torque (2.0-2.5kgf) And around 1 kgf the studs just snapped... Then I looked the torque wrench and it seems like it's has been treated incorrectly, because the metal arm was out of center. So what I'm going to do tomorrow: go to store, buy electronic torque wrench, check ALL bolts (main bolts etc.) because i have this little fear in my mind that they're out of their specifications. I'm glad that I have spare ones... And yes, the rocker arms were loose so they would not put any pressure to the springs yet. If it isn't the torque wrench, I don't freaking know what it is, jeez... 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 ****Current torque wrench I use is beam-like Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 have you ever had it calibrated? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 have you ever had it calibrated? Hahhah, don't ask me, it's just my father's old tool. So I'm guessing that it hasn't been calibrated :( Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 might have it looked at then..... i had a buddy that was using the one his grandpa gave him, and he kept blowing head gaskets until we did a head gasket in my garage with my tools..... Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 might have it looked at then..... i had a buddy that was using the one his grandpa gave him, and he kept blowing head gaskets until we did a head gasket in my garage with my tools..... Yep, considering what would be best, calibrating beam-line or buy new electronic one. I wonder if I could calibrate it at home.. But I guess I would need another torque wrench for that...? And my fears are now that I have tightened the main bolts too tight and that's why it's kinda heavy to spin the crankshaft (with pistons and camshaft installed etc.) I'm guessing the worst... My luck~ Haha Quote Link to comment
mrmark Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 I have snap-on's tech angle torque wrenches and they're really really good. They measure in inch lbs, foot lbs, newton meter and torque angle as well. Got 3/8 and 1/2 inch. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 I have snap-on's tech angle torque wrenches and they're really really good. They measure in inch lbs, foot lbs, newton meter and torque angle as well. Got 3/8 and 1/2 inch. The one which 'clicks' ? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 My way to get the cracked bolt out of the motor Valves adjusted, clearances checked, motor spins. New torque wrench is awesome, works perfectly :) 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Hi guys, another question here: when I have my new stiffer clutch, would I be able to get bigger master/slave cylinder so that the clutch would be lightweight again? Unfortunately, Nissan used the same 3/4 master on almost everything they built with a manual transmission. :blush: Quote Link to comment
mrmark Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 The one which 'clicks' ? I also have a clicker type snap on that I use basically just for torquing wheels. I find it faster and more responsive than the tech angle's beep and buzz. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Unfortunately, Nissan used the same 3/4 master on almost everything they built with a manual transmission. :blush: Hmm... Well I guess that I can go with the stock part :/ unless I take it from another car Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Hmm... Well I guess that I can go with the stock part :/ unless I take it from another car You could try adapting an aftermarket unit? Something like this? Wilwood and several others offer a 7/8 single circuit master cylinder you could use as a clutch master. :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
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