Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project

[Atomic]

Sorry guys for not doing anything, or at least posting something. The fuel rail is still missing in post and I have been waiting for it like 2 weeks... I would like to weld some pieces to the body of the car, but currently the bottom garage is so full that I wont be able to do anything with it. 

 

Exhaust manifold is missing all the 90 degree pipes - It's really frustrating to find parts in Finland. I know some US websites that sell J - pipes, but they're like $50 each + shipping is probably + $30. And customs and shit...

 

Argh, this is really slow phase working... 

[Atomic]

Ugh, it has been a while again. School is taking my time and have some other things to worry about right now. 

 

But anyways, I got the fuel rail, measured it and marked the places for injectors. Now I need to fetch blank aluminium pipe to connect the injectors to the manifold. And I need to search some drill bits and look up if they're right size. 

 

So if my O-ring is 14mm across, I drill with 13,5mm?

 

And I asked how much would custom header cost in Finland and I got pricing around 800 euros, ridiculous...

[Atomic]

Project is going to be delayed, no money...

[Kirden]

The Ratsun gods will forgive you if they get more pics :P

 

Did you even finalize your turbo manifold? I finally sourced my R1 manifold from bogg brothers in the UK, but I'm still looking at headers (for NA) and a turbo manifold for my eventual rebuild. Luckily I laready have the turbo I want to use, just have to figure out mounting it.

 

Turbo was for my old civic build. Small Greddy turbo and custom ported elbow. I'ts nice cause of the internal wastegate that's been modified for 10lbs of boost. It's a TD04 15G.

[Atomic]

The Ratsun gods will forgive you if they get more pics :P

 

Did you even finalize your turbo manifold? I finally sourced my R1 manifold from bogg brothers in the UK, but I'm still looking at headers (for NA) and a turbo manifold for my eventual rebuild. Luckily I laready have the turbo I want to use, just have to figure out mounting it.

 

Turbo was for my old civic build. Small Greddy turbo and custom ported elbow. I'ts nice cause of the internal wastegate that's been modified for 10lbs of boost. It's a TD04 15G.

Haha, we'll see... I have to work on my daily drive atm.

 

Nope, nobody has 90degree flanges... Good for you, hope you'll find em :) 

I'm having some trouble with my turbo because of the integrated wastegate (less positioning options).

 

It's just... I really want to do the exhaust manifold from stainless steel, but as if I can't get it from anywhere for reasonable price I will do it from different material then... :/ We'll see..

[Kirden]

Due to the steering components, I may end up having to make a log manifold. There's nothing technically wrong with that design and they are vintage, so atleast it will feel period correct :P

 

Something like this:

 

But I may have to position it forward to miss the steering arm. Then I'll lose the factory A/C, but that's a price I'm willing to pay :devil: Also, the log design puts more heat closer to the brake booster, but I'm thinking about removing that to clean up the engine bay anyway.

[Atomic]

Due to the steering components, I may end up having to make a log manifold. There's nothing technically wrong with that design and they are vintage, so atleast it will feel period correct :P

 

Something like this:

 

But I may have to position it forward to miss the steering arm. Then I'll lose the factory A/C, but that's a price I'm willing to pay :devil: Also, the log design puts more heat closer to the brake booster, but I'm thinking about removing that to clean up the engine bay anyway.

 

Logstyle is one way to go, yes. But it will create hotspots to the manifold and therefore the mounting holes must be bigger due the thermal expansion. Same thing to the manifold itself, it should be made like every output is individually placed so there will be room for expansion.

I found this photo while ago and it seems quite nice, other than i would cut those small connection beams between the exhaust ports.

This manifold is straight for A12-A15 motors

[Atomic]

Finally some happy news! I got an answer from martelius exhaust! They priced their tubing as:

 

90 degree 35 mm ID 38 mm OD x8 - 120e (15 euros per )

1 meter aisi 304 steel (same ID and OD) - 12,10e

Postage: 13e

 

So now I need to inquire the prices of the flanges

[Kirden]

If you get a chance can you take pictures through out the process of building your manifold? I may try my hand at building one and would love the reference material.

[Atomic]

If you get a chance can you take pictures through out the process of building your manifold? I may try my hand at building one and would love the reference material.

 

Sure, it may take some time as I need to draw the flanges first and then order them~ I will assume that the turbo manifold is going to cost something around 200-300 euros (still saving 600euros)

[Atomic]

Hello, got something done:

  

(updated)

 

 

So those exhaust ports are done for 38mm OD, 35mm ID pipe. Pipes will be shaped more to square shape and then they should fit straight to the holes.

some corners seem to need some adjustment and i shall update the downloadable files later...

 

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2X-9Tgys3QOeUtfNzZlMmNoY3M/edit <--- dwg file (updated)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2X-9Tgys3QOVTN5bktnMDNfZmM/edit?usp=sharing <--- photo, JPG

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2X-9Tgys3QOY2pEWFhJbUdBSTA/edit <--- corel draw file (updated)

Edited March 9, 2014 by Atomic

[Atomic]

Flanges would cost me around 260e because they have to be water cut.  But I have the opportunity to use laser cutter if I remove the screw holes and size the exhaust ports smaller(meaning i would have to grind them myself). We'll see, updating more this week~

[Atomic]

Yup, I got them cheaper with laser cut 186e, so 74e cheaper, but now I need to drill the screw holes myself and do some honing. I can post the modified dwg file to this reply later on

[Atomic]

So I did some rough calculations today... And, well... Money burned so far: $2470.38 

Parts listing:

$133.02 - injectors

$13.56 - fuel pump emblem

$59.99 - front suspension bush kit

$39.99 -Engine mount pair

$39.99 - front windshield seal

$135.00 - GX double valve spring kit

$55.00 - GX double valve spring seats

$107.00 - ARP head stud kit

$465.57 - VOLVO 850 2.3 T5 R Turbo Charger

$258.74 - Flanges

$183.63 - Exhaust manifold pipes

$111.29 - Gas shock absorbs

$278.22 - Engine repair kit ( seals, bearings etc... )

$194.75 - Cam bearings assembly 

$83.47 - Piston&bearing coatings

$83.47 - New lowered springs

$69.56 - Front fender

$55.64 - Rocker panels

$83.47 - Turbo throttle body with tps

$35.95 - Cooled brake plates 

 

 

Parts needed:

Megasquirt - $1112.88 (with sensors and wiring + direct ignition)

Exhaust piping - $?

TPS sensor cable - $30

Fuel lines and fittings- $?

Fuel pump - $?

Gauges - $?

Exhaust muffler - $?

Rear axel - $?

Turbo piping - $?

Intercooler - $?

Race clutch - $?

Rims - $?

Paint Job - $?

Interior upholstery - $?

 

 

Now just looking at the list... It's ... Wow... Mmm... Well as you can see, most of the money goes to the engine~ (ofc, duurhhhrhrhrh, rust is free :rofl: )

 

 

 

 

 

[Atomic]

Please tell me, that this is worth all the above  :crying:

[ggzilla]

Much less expensive than the guy next door with a Fiat for 200€ per month.

[TENDRIL]

i think once you drive it, all the money fades away, and it will all be worth it 

[Atomic]

Kind words :) helps out a lot! 

So if all goes to plan, next weekend is a picture time with some manifold ideas and hopefully a complete one!

[Atomic]

So here is some homework that I did:

Note: My turbo is actually TD04-16G (T and G are material differences in my knowledge, T stands for titanium and G is just metal, so the graph should be accurate...)

 

So I found this map for the turbo I use (should have done this before I bought it...). But I was lucky that I got just the right size turbo that I wanted.

 

To read the graph:

I calculated the airflow rate for the engine

 

Airflow rate =    92(cid, displacement) x 7000(max rpm) x 0.5 x 0.85 (hoped efficiency)

                          ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------        = 158 cfm

                                                                       1728(converts cubic inches to cubic feet) 

Then multiply it by 1.82 to get boost under 12psi ~ 0.8 bar

158 x 1.82 =288 cfm

 

PR = 14.7 + 12(psi boost)

         ------------                   =1.82

              14.7

 

So 82% more air will be going through the system.

 

Then pinpoint the 288 cfm and draw line to 50% of the redline rpm and plot this point to the compressor map. 

Then draw a curve from PR = 1 and cfm = 20% of maximum or (288 cfm x 0.2) = 58 cfm.

 

So 5000RPM to 7000 RPM under 0.8bar boost, the turbo should have efficiency of 76%, which is perfect!

And the graph wont go over the left side (surge limit/engine chokes) so it should provide me a nice pressure all the way up to 7000 RPM!

[Atomic]

Here are more useful pictures:

 

Exducer bore size will determine how much compressor flow you can get

Here is the graph showing  that bigger bore will give you more compressor flow.

And for my roughly 2'' bore, I can get my 300 cfm to get desired 0.8-1bar pressure

[Atomic]

I heard you like pictures:

So I got my pipes and tomorrow I will be cutting them towards the final shape of the exhaust manifold, yay!

[Atomic]

Hello everyone,

things happened and stuff have to be made, so this happened:

 

We had to move this car so that one of my friends can get his car out of the warehouse. And second friend needed help, so he came to our garage and his car had some serious knocking noises. He opened the bottom of the engine and all of the bearings were trashed and gone. Time passed and it was 7pm when I got time for my exhaust manifold.. But wait a minute, I need my front struts to be completed before that! And oh well... We fought with the bearings and the front struts weren't working properly (when steering). So it was mainly because I have bored the center hole of the spring retainers too small and the bearing and the top bolt were stuck together. Now as I'm currently writing this, it's almost 10pm and I need to have some schoolwork done before Monday... So I'm disappointed that I couldn't even start making the exhaust manifold...  

[ggzilla]

Why is the car upside down?

[Atomic]

Why is the car upside down?

It was easier to work with

[Atomic]

Here are some thoughts about the exhaust manifold. I'm thinking that I could merge the left side pipe with one of the center pipes and right side pipe with the other center pipe, so 4-2-1.

I forgot the motor crane to the other place (I want to build the manifold when motor is in the car) and I'm developing a serious headache and getting dizzy, so I couldn't do any cuts for the pipes.