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Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project


Atomic

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58 minutes ago, slowlearner said:

 

Functionally, your intake runners will be wetted anyway because at high speed the runners will have a constant stream of fuel pulses spraying on them anyway.

 

The sequential is good for individual cylinder tuning.

Yeah, but I want To have that smoother idle and as you mentioned, individual cylinder tuning. As im having the k type thermocouples on each exhaust pipe for fuel trim correction

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Made first collar with 0.02 mm larger than the shaft with nice sliding fit

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Didn't want to slide it all the way to the center as there is so much going on with the surface of the old rocker arm shaft. New one is on the way from Japan

 

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On 7/19/2020 at 11:53 AM, Atomic said:

Had to order new rocker shaft as it was completely busted with deep scratches, same with the other motor rocker shaft?? Is it due to oil starvation or something?

 

This is a very common problem on high mileage engines. Seems to be on about 80% of them I've seen. 

 

Conventional wisdom is a lack of oil changes. If you get gunk in the oil, it will make it's way to this spot and grind itself into the shaft. 

 

FWIW, I have had great success with cleaning them up with a fine toothed file. Just keep filing that spot until the rocker slides over it smoothly. It is very hard metal and surprisingly hard to screw up. 

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I think I got the fitment just right, now some sliding action:

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Also got some more tool holders from mail, one old one in the left corner because I ordered ER32 holder for it:

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Now the cabinet is full with holders, lets see when I need another cabinet:

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Has been silent for couple of days. I have been installing a complete lowering set for my daily driver V40 MK1.

 

Anyways, I 3D printed an adapter to the rear axle which allows me to bolt up dual calipers, so that I can have a separate hydraulic line for a hydraulic handbrake. I need to start designing some custom brackets to fit the handbrake into the cabin. Also I need to make a mechanism for it to lock up also.

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Hej Atomic!

Very nice project! I just bought a Swedish-sold Datsun, it is registered as a "140 Y Coupé Khlb" from '79. It is fully working and road legal until November when the next inspection is due.

 

I currently have my Volvo 940 in the garage waiting for regular maintenance parts but when that is done I will probably use this thread a lot for inspiration and questions that might come up. I might even start my own project thread 👍

I have not been under the car yet but I already know that there is a lot of rust to fix and that the suspension is worn. What did you do for your suspension? And do you have any "status update posts" where you show the entire car? This thread is quite long.

 

Anyways thanks for creating this awesome project and sharing it!

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3 hours ago, hJohn said:

Hej Atomic!

Very nice project! I just bought a Swedish-sold Datsun, it is registered as a "140 Y Coupé Khlb" from '79. It is fully working and road legal until November when the next inspection is due.

 

I currently have my Volvo 940 in the garage waiting for regular maintenance parts but when that is done I will probably use this thread a lot for inspiration and questions that might come up. I might even start my own project thread 👍

I have not been under the car yet but I already know that there is a lot of rust to fix and that the suspension is worn. What did you do for your suspension? And do you have any "status update posts" where you show the entire car? This thread is quite long.

 

Anyways thanks for creating this awesome project and sharing it!

Thanks hJohn!

 

And gratz for coupe! And I highly suggest for your own project thread as it helps you to get motivated with the car also. 

 

I did coilover setup for the front struts, inserted Mazda 626 cooler brake rotors and turbo volvo 240 4-caliper setup. This requires slight modifications to the volvo calipers, but they have same bolt pattern as B310 front struts. Also they fit up nicely with 626 brake rotors. Finding a suitable set of rims is then a problem as the 4-caliper setup requires some ET to clear out (I just bought bolt on 25 mm rim spacers). Also the front hubs need some trimming as they are hitting the brake calipers. All the things can be found from the first pages of this thread tho. And as I lowered the front end quite a bit I have bumpsteer spacers from technotoytuning to compensate the geometry changes.

For rear axle I have opted for 1030 axle from 740 volvo. I have custom stiffer springs and ford mustang double adjustable Q1 shock absorbers there that are bolt on. 

 

Thanks for checking the project, it has been quite a journey for over 8 years now I think. Surely It's a lot to read 😄 And sadly no, I don't have any bigger status updates to summarize. Might do one on the first page of the build when I have all the technical details sorted out and the car is on the road.  

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There are many good rims on blocket.se in Sweden. Maybe you can find a good pair on the Finnish blocket equivalent (find.it I think one was called and tori.fi).

Otherwise there are good replicas of other rims. I am going too look at RS Watanabe R types or replicas further in to my project as I think they are the best looking JDM rims.

EDIT: I saw that you wrote that as a warning to me and not that you are having problems finding rims.

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Had to use fine sandpaper to get the mating surfaces clean on the rocker arms as the springs had digged deep into the metal and some serious scratches were there. No wonder the rocker shafts get busted, I'm glad that I made the spacers now:

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all fit nicely and everything spins smoothly.

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Is it necessary to provide a way for oil to get between the spacers and rockers?  Or is natural splash oiling likely to be plenty?

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5 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

Is it necessary to provide a way for oil to get between the spacers and rockers?  Or is natural splash oiling likely to be plenty?

To my understanding, the oil is pushed through the Block and into the cylinder head, and then it will go To the rocker shaft through the aluminum support pilars. The rocker shaft is hollow and the oil will squirt and spray around the valve cover from the small holes in the rockers. 

 

Someone correct me if im wrong

 

BP project sells the spacers as is too, without any holes. So i think as long as my tolerances are okay and the oil film is stable, then there is no problem 

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Fair enough.  Cool idea just not one i know that much about.  I'm familiar with the stock oiling system.  I was just curious if that was enough.  Sounds good to me 😁.

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On 7/30/2020 at 12:25 AM, Lockleaf said:

 I was just curious if that was enough. 

 

Stock oiling system is perfectly fine with the collars instead of the springs.  👍

 

As he said, hollow shaft, full of holes, oil gets EVERYWHERE in there.  😁

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Finally got the TIG welder potentiometer and welded the brackets on:

img_20200805_161615_by_atomicsickness_de

distance adjustable via spacers (this is with 1 mm thick):

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welded also the oil return to the pan finally:

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And finished the last hump to clear out the long main cap bolts:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Highflow oilpump body modification:

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Now the L series rotor and shaft fits the A series housing. I just need to make a aluminum pin to lock the rotor into place. Then I need to press the gear to the bottom and drill a hole for bottom pin.

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Bought also 4 different shades of blue and painted V40 fender I had laying around, had a matt lack runout on the leftside and couple of drops on the right side when I was mixing the paints, oops.. 😄 

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I'm probably going to choose one of the colors from the left side. The 4th is a bit too turquoise in the shade, 3rd is a bit too dark. First one is a bit darkish, the 2nd one is kind of bright.

 

Need to do the choise on the weekend and then I'll be buying the car paints, or atleast some for painting the engine block and valve cover with it.

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On 7/21/2020 at 11:12 AM, datsunfreak said:

 

This is a very common problem on high mileage engines. Seems to be on about 80% of them I've seen. 

 

Conventional wisdom is a lack of oil changes. If you get gunk in the oil, it will make it's way to this spot and grind itself into the shaft. 

 

FWIW, I have had great success with cleaning them up with a fine toothed file. Just keep filing that spot until the rocker slides over it smoothly. It is very hard metal and surprisingly hard to screw up. 

 

Could also be decades of oil with lower and lower ZDDP levels too.

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5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Could also be decades of oil with lower and lower ZDDP levels too.

 

 

Could be, but it's just as common on engines that weren't even run in the last 20 years.  😁

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Rolled the datsun to outside so I could paint the engine block:

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Masked the engine and painted with the same color as the outer shell is going to be:

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Had a cup-noodle brake in the car:

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Took off the maskings:

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The one spot with some red on it will have the aluminum cap that I'm going to machine over it. I really do like the color scheme that is coming up. I have pearl black also that I'm going to use for the aluminum chain cover and pulley wheels. Hopefully I get to paint more tomorrow.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Whew, not enough time, and sanding takes a lot of time. During multiple days I have been prepping the valve cover as it was in quite a bad shape and I wanted to make it a bit prettier:

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I think it is quite ready for the blue paint. Need to prep the rest of the parts tomorrow. I'll try to paint these during this week if it doesn't start to rain or something. Then I can finally assemble the rest of the engine together!

 

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It has been mostly raining for a week now:

img_20200905_161435_by_atomicsickness_de

So I have just been prepping other parts for paint, I did a pretty shitty welding on the cam trigger so I used some filler to make the transition smoother:

img_20200905_161038_by_atomicsickness_de

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  • 3 weeks later...

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