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Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project


Atomic

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You are referring to the tuned length of the intake runners into a plenum? The increase of volumetric efficiency by altering the intake pulse timing by lengthening or shortening the runner length.  Why not design this into your intake??? it's FREE power. I think all engines today use this. Chrysler did a lot of experimenting with this. My '64 Dodge had a tuned intake runner from the factory.

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

You are referring to the tuned length of the intake runners into a plenum? The increase of volumetric efficiency by altering the intake pulse timing by lengthening or shortening the runner length.  Why not design this into your intake??? it's FREE power. I think all engines today use this. Chrysler did a lot of experimenting with this. My '64 Dodge had a tuned intake runner from the factory.

I already Did this with my current design. Ultimate design would have variable geometry runners.

 

But im bumping the A series pump buying again since this went to new page. So if anyone has a spare a series pump hit me up. 

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Got another pump body for 10 euros. Will be trying to get the gear off from the shaft again. Then the stainless steel wire arrived and I picked it up today. I'm still in the middle of designing another type of intake manifold, will be posting pictures in the future when I get it ready.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got another oil pump sandwitch plate, much higher quality and cost only 5 euros more than the last one (this one was 15 euros)

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It also comes with a thermal switch that triggers at 80 degrees, I will be using that to have the oil-cooler flow. Plus then I have a thermal electric switch that will trigger at 90-100 degrees so i can keep the oil at operating temperature

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  • 2 weeks later...

The cylinder block is now machined (bored, honed and straightened). The machine shop is next working on the bearing surfaces and will give me a report if new surfaces are needed.

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Ordering new bearing sets from Australia, found this site:

http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/

 

Planning to order cam bearing set with std size, main bearing set with 0.5 mm oversize and conrod bearing set with 0.25 oversize. Everything was fine with the current bearing surfaces on the crankshaft and resulted only in small polishing on the surfaces.

 

That just left me wondering it it only was piston slap from the cylinder number 4. This time there should be no slap at all at least. I might be able to pick up the engine from the shop in 1 or 2 weeks from now. 

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2 hours ago, Atomic said:

Ordering new bearing sets from Australia, found this site:

http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/

 

Planning to order cam bearing set with std size, main bearing set with 0.5 mm oversize and conrod bearing set with 0.25 oversize. Everything was fine with the current bearing surfaces on the crankshaft and resulted only in small polishing on the surfaces.

 

That just left me wondering it it only was piston slap from the cylinder number 4. This time there should be no slap at all at least. I might be able to pick up the engine from the shop in 1 or 2 weeks from now. 

 

I was out at SW Motorsport last night. Stewart is a master tradesman, a gentleman and a legend. Apparently there's a game you can play where you name the 510 part and he names the part number. 😄

 

I hope you can sort out your other issues. Looking forward to seeing this running. 

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I have been working with the intake manifold concept for a while, here is something that I have done:

manifold_by_atomicsickness_ddrwn1q-fullview.jpg?token=eyJ0eXAiOiJKV1QiLCJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJzdWIiOiJ1cm46YXBwOjdlMGQxODg5ODIyNjQzNzNhNWYwZDQxNWVhMGQyNmUwIiwiaXNzIjoidXJuOmFwcDo3ZTBkMTg4OTgyMjY0MzczYTVmMGQ0MTVlYTBkMjZlMCIsIm9iaiI6W1t7ImhlaWdodCI6Ijw9MTA2MyIsInBhdGgiOiJcL2ZcL2VmNDQyY2U4LTI2ODQtNGUzMS04NjU0LWMwNzJkMGI1MGUzM1wvZGRyd24xcS04ZjA1N2ZlNS0yMmRmLTQwYWEtODZhZC02MDg0ZDhmZDc2MTEucG5nIiwid2lkdGgiOiI8PTEyODAifV1dLCJhdWQiOlsidXJuOnNlcnZpY2U6aW1hZ2Uub3BlcmF0aW9ucyJdfQ.59y0LjFRgoK2YvcR7D0jIEhe0zisFc0wtOLuU08mzPw

 

Still work in progress and couple of things to sort out. It's a variable geometry intake manifold that uses diaphragm actuators to control the secondary and tertiary butterfly valves. I need to make a flange point towards the plenum so that the butterfly valves can be installed. I have something else thought out also to make it as a single piece if possible. The center cover is detachable with the B310 turbo lettering, it was looking kinda empty and I tried how a plastic cover would look over it.

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That would be 70C I would imagine. My oil temp takes forever to read above the minimum 60F. I can drive into town and no movement. I do have an oil cooler that I probably do not need. I once got it to 193 F which is probably close to or just above the water temperature. Toyed with a water /oil cooler idea to speed the warm up. 

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7 hours ago, slowlearner said:

That's very cool. Why not 3D print it in high temp plastic? There a company doing that in New Zealand with individual throttle bodies. 

Im in  contact with one 3d printing company about the project and they can do both metal and plastic prints. The injector part should be made out of aluminum because high ethanol content in fuel. Not to mention petrol resistivity. I might look more into that later

Edited by Atomic
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I'm going to ask if they can print the inside butterfly valve mechanism so that the intake runners from plenum towards the aluminum 90 degree flanges can be made as unibody piece. So nothing much changed at the design, added the injectors and rail to see how it looks. Probably going to use similar mounting as previously with two 12 mm rods that have M6 threads at the rail end so that the rail can be secured along with the injectors

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I have been thinking about twin turbo and twincharger (turbo + supercharger) in general. As I have more things modeled on my computer I can probably make some fun designs during the weeks

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Ordered the copper head gasket with two thicknesses of 0.8 mm and 1.0 mm. Tampereen Vesileikkaus Oy was the only one that had the material stock of copper and instant quotation, kudos to them! 

 

I'll be calling to the machine shop this week and ask what's the situation on the crankshaft etc.

 

I haven't received any info back from the SW motors, maybe someone local could give them a call to answer for my quotation about shipping? I was asking them about cam bearing set with std size, main bearing set with 0.5 mm oversize and conrod bearing set with 0.25 oversize for the A15 motor. I hope C-virus doesn't affect the situation..

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I have sent some inquiries on sets of KING bearings: CR4442AM (conrod set with 0.25 oversize) and MB5229AM (main bearing set with 0.5 oversize). I'll be calling the machine shop tomorrow to see how are the parts coming together

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Ordered new bearings from Australia. The machine Shop said that the Block is ready and they should be ready with other bearing surfaces next week. That means i can start To piece everything together soon. I will most likely have to wait for the intake manifold solution before i can start the car again. But its not too far out to do this during next month. Its also getting warmer outside So i can take the car for a ride too if everything goes well

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5 hours ago, dukerollo said:

I don’t know if you have looked into an actuator for your intake yet, but the d21 KA24e has vacuum actuated butterflies in the runners.  The mechanism may suit your needs and should be cheap. 

I was thinking about adjustable wastegate actuators, but I will keep those in my mind too! 

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Seems like the pushrod openings (bottom) should have had a larger openings, I dremeled them out to get more clearance just to be sure nothing will scrape the gasket

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then it was time to prep the head and utilize old head gasket as a mask for the ceramic coating

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held it down with aluminum tapes at first

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and then covered the rest with some other tape i had laying around

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I think i got the coverage pretty good (before baking)

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in it goes

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took some time before I could take it out as it was pretty hot as you can imagine

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all in all i would say the bonding was good, except for two intake valves that had some flaking, even tho they were cleaned beforehand and blasted 

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I was able to clean the two intake valves and I'll probably take them out and bake them separately again. I could leave them as is too, but I'm thinking that they would be absorbing most of the heat now and that's probably not good

 

And then I got the copper gasket spray from post office too. I think I will soon have everything that I can put the engine back together. I might go for couple of additional upgrades such as custom cradle to keep the bottom end steady

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Started sketching the girdle:

img_20200329_105348_by_atomicsickness_dd

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I was thinking about making it from AISI 304 10 mm thick, or then just mild steel as it just sits in the oilpan anyways. But I'm most likely leaning towards the AISI 304.

 

The main bearing cap ends have to be milled down too to fit the girdle so I need to figure that out. Also sent out a quotation request for ARP main cap bolts with 10 mm more height than normal (M10x1.5 80 mm long with 26 mm thread)

 

Then I started making the board for AD converters for the K-type exhaust temperature sensors:

img_20200329_121458_by_atomicsickness_dd

 

 

Edited by Atomic
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On 3/19/2020 at 3:16 PM, dukerollo said:

I don’t know if you have looked into an actuator for your intake yet, but the d21 KA24e has vacuum actuated butterflies in the runners.  The mechanism may suit your needs and should be cheap. 

 

There is very little air moving at idle and low speeds, so those butterflies close and the notches in their tops force what air there is to pass close by the injectors in the tops of the intake. This generates swirl and turbulence for good mixing of the injector spray. Smooths and evens the idle and low speed.

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