Atomic Posted October 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 Filler image: 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 It is really difficult to do the intake manifold now that I know that I shouldn't do longer intake pipes than 400 mm. I'm not able to fit the plenum and the throttle plate in good position neither. I'm struggling at the moment, hopefully I will get some good idea to solve my issue Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2018 Finally got the courage to make the new intake runners with injector pockets, this time with TIG. But oh boy, let me tell you it wasn't easy to get the first weld tap on place ? And then I learned that I should pay attention where the pocket leans after welding, so I had to do some 'fine' tuning... But overall I'm quite pleased here are some results: Soon to be mounted... soon... I need to clean up the first mistakes I made with MIG welder, so that I can reuse that flange with these new pipes, got all 4 done, happy with the results 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2018 Cut the old manifold to pieces to salvage some bends from it: Mocked up the manifold runners with aluminium tape, the distance to hood is somewhere around 7 cm, so should be just enough space to go over the valve cover: Will continue maybe tomorrow with the other set, welding with TIG is really nice 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Completed the other two bends: And drilled the injector pockets through Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 Bought a dremel kit for honing the injector pockets and intake manifold from the inside, it came with really nice adapter that I didn't take a picture of: The small tool under the blue box is what I'm talking about, really handy! And again, with the help of aluminium tape: So the bends are bit wonky due to my inferior taping skills ? but I should do a jig to line up all the injector pockets when I'm going to weld the runners to the flanges. Probably going to drill holes to a plate and then use that to align the injector pockets. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 26, 2018 Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 So will the plenum be above the rocker cover or above the spark plugs? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2018 (edited) Just now, datsunfreak said: So will the plenum be above the rocker cover or above the spark plugs? Above the spark plugs, I need to remake the plenum that I did year ago, going with silicone pipes over the valve cover so the valve cover is accecable Edited October 26, 2018 by Atomic Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2018 Got a second dashboard for B310, bought the whole dash to get glove box and air vents and such from it: Got also the air vent sheet metal that needs a bit work but it's far better than the ones I had previously from late model B310 with square headlights (had different shaping) Then I was able to get chrome bumper supports also, the need a bit of love and then I need to design new mounting holes for them since I patched the spots where the old ones were I'm glad that I finally got fully functioning air vent system and all the climate control mechanism works and then i was able to insert the glove box also: Then cleaned up the passanger side floor a bit, and hid the main power switch inside of it, it came our really clean looking: In the future I should start molding my own covers for the wires and fuse boxes. Also a carpet and sound damping would be in place soon too. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 (edited) Does anyone have an idea what these are in english? You can basically run another port from silicone / rubber hose. I was planning to use something like these to rob a line for the turbo coolant line. Edited November 10, 2018 by Atomic Quote Link to comment
That4doorKiD Posted November 13, 2018 Report Share Posted November 13, 2018 boost source quick tap or somethin like that hahahaha 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2018 3 hours ago, That4doorKiD said: boost source quick tap or somethin like that hahahaha Was able to find some on ebay but they were looking pretty cheap :I Need to look more into it Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 https://www.ebay.com/i/112599511030 Better? I searched "silicone hose vacuum fitting" and found some other stuff too 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) On 11/15/2018 at 6:36 AM, Lockleaf said: https://www.ebay.com/i/112599511030 Better? I searched "silicone hose vacuum fitting" and found some other stuff too I'm bit sceptical of the finger tightening ring over there. I'll probably just have to order some and test them out Just figured that the threaded pipe fitting will tighten down the finger ring also, d'oh! Thanks for the tip! Edited November 17, 2018 by Atomic Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 17, 2018 Report Share Posted November 17, 2018 I hope it helps. I was not sure if it fit you're needs, but I'm glad if it will. I love this project. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 1000 project pictures posted to the blog with this submission, hurrayy. I bought a new clutch master cylinder: NOS brake master cylinder: New front grillie ornaments: Then I might have a minor problem with the clutch... ? I have the slave cylinder attached to the frame of the car due to not having mounting points on the transmission. The clutch doesn't disengage with this travel and I need to start thinking something else then. What came into my mind is to have pull type slave cylinder attached to the side of the motor from willwood forexample. (the slave cylinder is pushing the fork in the gif, so not to get confused here) Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Is it working in the opposite direction that it's supposed to? Also, may be the video, but it looks like it's moving the entire engine forward? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 It is and it will. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 42 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: Is it working in the opposite direction that it's supposed to? Also, may be the video, but it looks like it's moving the entire engine forward? The pivot point is on the other side of the gearbox. I ended up using the fork that is used with cable normally. And i have tested the clutch to be working when the engine and tranny were out of the car. And yes, the whole engine is moving ? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 On 11/18/2018 at 10:19 AM, Atomic said: I ended up using the fork that is used with cable normally. I think I know the problem. ? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 3 hours ago, datsunfreak said: I think I know the problem. ? Is that a good or a bad thing? ? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 16 hours ago, Atomic said: Is that a good or a bad thing? ? Could be bad. Most cables have the pivot on the opposite side of where the arm comes out. Hydraulic set-ups have the pivot between the bearing and the arm's exit. Hydraulic is made to "pivot", cable is just made to "rise". There's a hole below the throwout bearing in this photo. Can the pivot be moved down there? Quote Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 8 hours ago, datsunfreak said: Could be bad. Most cables have the pivot on the opposite side of where the arm comes out. Hydraulic set-ups have the pivot between the bearing and the arm's exit. Hydraulic is made to "pivot", cable is just made to "rise". There's a hole below the throwout bearing in this photo. Can the pivot be moved down there? Yes, i would need to find a hydraulic fork for there and disassemble the transmission again to insert the pivot point there (same transmission was used with both hydraulic and cable setups). I'm going to try it with the new wilwood slave cylinder. But if that doesn't work then I guess I have no choice. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 (edited) 15 hours ago, Atomic said: Yes, i would need to find a hydraulic fork for there and disassemble the transmission again to insert the pivot point there (same transmission was used with both hydraulic and cable setups). I'm going to try it with the new wilwood slave cylinder. But if that doesn't work then I guess I have no choice. There's always something like this? https://www.jegs.com/i/Howe/505/82870/10002/-1 Edited November 22, 2018 by datsunfreak Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 8 hours ago, datsunfreak said: There's always something like this? https://www.jegs.com/i/Howe/505/82870/10002/-1 Hmm, yes. But would need to modify for mounting points and such? And the maintenance would be always a pain ? Quote Link to comment
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