nl320what Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 If its turbo it wont rely on the intake pulses to feed the cylinders on boost. The intake will be pressurized, so its forced and already pushing at the valves with the charge. The camshaft plays a huge role in a boosted motor. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted September 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 If its turbo it wont rely on the intake pulses to feed the cylinders on boost. The intake will be pressurized, so its forced and already pushing at the valves with the charge. The camshaft plays a huge role in a boosted motor. Yeah, I'm mainly trying to affect the curve when there is close to none boost (under 3k RPM). ''Turbo applications will generally find best results with long runners, which provide a broad, flat torque curve at low speeds, while the turbo keeps the top end strong. In the fuel injection applications where only air is moving inside the runners, the runner design becomes free to go up, down or sideways.'' - Corky Bell, Maximum Boost Quote Link to comment
nl320what Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Check this design, you just really want the intake air to be evenly distributed to all the cylinders, and have as little angles and edges as possible for the air shown here. It would be fun to do it and adjust it to see what happens. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted September 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Check this design, you just really want the intake air to be evenly distributed to all the cylinders, and have as little angles and edges as possible for the air shown here. It would be fun to do it and adjust it to see what happens. Yeah, that's going to be the other problem when I'm done crafting the tubes. I have some designs in mind for evenly distributed plenums. Will see how I'm going to do that, I have some basic formulas and may try to make a symmetrical one, we'll see Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted September 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 Got new autogauge meters, water temp, speedometer, tachometer and boost gauge. All with adjustable light, peak and warning functions + controllers: Tacho and speedo were 95mm, seems like a perfect fit for the original dash: And boost gauge slides in to the clock pocket: Used soldering iron to get into tricky parts to remove some sections from out of the way: Tadaa...: Cut some foam to pad them: Closed the case, they're nice and snug in there: First start up, white colors: But going to use amber most likely: Also installed oil pan in this position, was pain in the ass, took me 1hour... 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted September 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2017 Bought a new underbody coat gun and sprayed really thick layers to the bottom of the car: So I got the engine and transmission installed. Filled the tranny with 2L of that redline racing oil, also bought some 75w90 for the rear axle. It was real pain in the ass to install the tranny and motor back again.. First there was a small breather hole that leaked when I lifted the combo up.. Had to close that with aluminium tape.. Then the transmission started to leak from the bottom seals... But it was all due some bolts were not torqued fully.. So I took the shifter assembly off for the time of assembly. Finally everything torqued and no more leaks.. It was really annoying to put a small guiding pin to the end of the transmission where the linkage system for shifter was.. Spent good 3h with this battle, didn't take any pics because got a bit frustrated :rofl: :rofl: Should probably clean the garage again :angel: 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 I know it might be early but I have been looking for shifter knobs already :rofl: :rofl: (maybe too much expectations for the project to work) Or maybe this :rofl: (not really) 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 Got the drive shaft installed, it's about 14mm off centerline, hopefully that wont affect much.. Need to think how to mount the slave cylinder for clutch fork: Had to rise the front about 5cm because the tires were hitting the fender lips because of all the weight at the front: Bought new brake calipers for rear axle: Random shots: Cleaned the garage a bit :angel: 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted October 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 Lots of pictures today, so: Bought more brake parts, new brake pads, T-fittings and assembly kit: Also got free Mazda MX3 coupe seats: The dirver side seat was almost bolt on with datsuns original rails, had to extend the rail on the drivers side door a bit, but the one next to drive shaft tunnel is direct bolt on, also the width is the same, so no extra work required besides the weld on extension: Passenger side was trickier, I had to extend both of the rails about 3cm, but bolted to the floor nicely: The seats feel nice and suit the car imo: Driver side seat has 3 adjusting levers, you can control the pitch (how high your elbows will go), height of the chair and ofc the normal skew: On the passenger side, it has a small pull mechanism for quick release the seat so you can get easily off from the backseat: Put the doors on and took some random photos: The plan for the chairs is to holster them to suit the original seats, so black leather to the sides and headrest + backside and then black fabric to the middle of the seats Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Sorry long time no updates, have been really busy with bachelor thesis. Here are some photos of the new gauges: I'm thinking about replacing the fuel meter gauge with water temperature gauge, so all 4 gauges will be matching style and color. Still need to think about where I want to mount the shift light etc 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Re: The original Ramchargers were engineers from Chrysler and they experimented in depth with intake runner lengths with their favorite hobby (drag racing) after work in the '60s. If over the valve cove, it doesn't have to be at 90 degrees. You could lean them all forward to make a larger radius bend which would also lengthen them. Fit easily removable silicon hoses over the valve cover area so you can get at the valve train. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Engine bay wires: also wired the temp sensor too. Gonna be busy with bachelor thesis, hopefully I can do much more progress on December 3 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Those gauges look right at home in there!! Nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment
nl320what Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Autometer gauges look nice, Glowshift is another company that does budgets fully programmable stepper gauges with Start-Up shows. Suggestion... bang out your first manifold design to get it running asap and dyno it. All the the while make some big changes to it and dyno a new manifold to see how it really works. Calculated numbers dont take into account, blow by gases, octane, injector and ignition tune, and real reciprocating mass loads. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Autometer gauges look nice, Glowshift is another company that does budgets fully programmable stepper gauges with Start-Up shows. Suggestion... bang out your first manifold design to get it running asap and dyno it. All the the while make some big changes to it and dyno a new manifold to see how it really works. Calculated numbers dont take into account, blow by gases, octane, injector and ignition tune, and real reciprocating mass loads. Yeah, I'm pretty glad that how they look. Still need to place lambda and oil pressure gauges somewhere. And I'm lacking time at the moment so haven't had time to make the manifold. I'm trying to write my bachelor thesis ready by December Quote Link to comment
nl320what Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Im with you on that, education is tops. With any spare time you have, we would love to see a manifold made and hear it fire up. I seen this from a SR20DET build, it looks quick and easy design: https://docrace.wordpress.com/2011/02/12/sr20det-intake-manifold-update/ Quote Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Engine bay wires: also wired the temp sensor too. Gonna be busy with bachelor thesis, hopefully I can do much more progress on December Love the progress. Those fenders are looking great. Cant wait to see what December brings. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 Does anyone know if Datsun 79' 610 brake booster fit B310? They look both the same: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-A-1-Cardone-Vacuum-Power-Brake-Booster-w-o-Master-Cylinder-fits-19/232549880157?fits=Make%3ADatsun&epid=75320025&hash=item36250d915d:g:heUAAOSwAHtZ-rDr&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Does anyone know if Datsun 79' 610 brake booster fit B310? They look both the same: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-A-1-Cardone-Vacuum-Power-Brake-Booster-w-o-Master-Cylinder-fits-19/232549880157?fits=Make%3ADatsun&epid=75320025&hash=item36250d915d:g:heUAAOSwAHtZ-rDr&vxp=mtr That's a 620, and yes it should. The small diameter boosters are pretty much all interchangeable. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 That's a 620, and yes it should. The small diameter boosters are pretty much all interchangeable. Woops typos :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Made a plenum mockup with solidedge. Its volume is around 0.73 liters, so about 50% of the engine displacement. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Is there a recommended percentage of plenum volume to engine size? Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Is there a recommended percentage of plenum volume to engine size? ''Virtually all fuel injection manifolds will have a plenum. The plenum volume should be a function of engine displacement - in general, 50 -70%.'' - maximum boost, Corky Bell Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Man i need to read that book. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted December 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 Small update, I was able to squeeze a 40mm id tube to 32mmx39mm oval. So I just need to remove some material from the flanges. Wall thickness is 2mm 1 Quote Link to comment
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