B210 X-member and Struts

[datsunfreak]

I haven't looked into the redrill yet.

 

Not easy to just "redrill". They are special tapered bushings in the crossmember that hold the lower control arm mounting pins. You'd need to very carefully cut the out and re-position them inboard and reweld them. Using 510 control arms with the 510 crossmember makes everything work like it did stock.

 

I'm concerned about the pivot pointsbeing equal with the center link / inner tie rod points. If they are not the same distance you get weird bump steer and high rate toe through the up and down travel.

 

FWIW, none of the factory set-ups I've seen are done this way.

 

Awhile back I was adapting a rack and pinion to a Datsun and someone noted that the pivots weren't perfectly inline with the control arm pivots. I said none of them were, so we looked at 7 different models of Datsuns all with factory alignment and none of them lined up perfectly.

 

Not saying it's not a good idea, just saying the factory stuff isn't perfect either.

[Dguy210]

Yes, that's why you redrill it, to match the pivot points for the drag link. Bump steer can be a little way off and most guys think it's fine, but it is better to have it match.

 

What they didn't like about the alloy crossmember was "looks weak" , although they didn't test it or try it. I agree the welds look iffy. But maybe it's OK. Drive it 50k miles and tell us if breaks.

 

Is that crossmember even bolted to the stock spot? It looks like they moved the mounting around anyways, or are those holes in the frame rail for something else. Or am I just looking at this wrong?

 

[Kisor]

The redrill comment I made was pertaining to using the S13 crossmember, control arms mount with a through bolt style:

 

 

 

And more so the pivot points being closer to what was designed for that chassis. Whether it be better to modify them for a more modern style setup or not. If they are way out it can cause some high rate bump steer.

[ggzilla]

The last time I said Datsuns came from the factory with non-perfect geometry for bump steer, a lot of guys said I didn't know what I was talking about.

 

Yes, Datsun B uses straight through LCA bushings, like the more modern Nissans ...except USA B210. To redrill the LCA mounting point you weld up the hole, drill new hole and weld strengthening washers (at least that's how some have done it).

[datsunfreak]

The last time I said Datsuns came from the factory with non-perfect geometry for bump steer, a lot of guys said I didn't know what I was talking about.

 

Well, I can back you up at least. :rofl:

 

Haven't checked an S30 Z yet, but I have checked everything else. ^_^

 

 

 

Is that crossmember even bolted to the stock spot? It looks like they moved the mounting around anyways, or are those holes in the frame rail for something else. Or am I just looking at this wrong?

 

 

Must be looking at it wrong? On the 510 and B210 (plus many others) that's how it's bolted up. Bolts go through a pinch weld on the outside of the frame rail.

 

Only car I've seen where the bolts actually go through the frame rail is the 1200. :thumbup:

[SlammedSunny]

Okay, So I have found a 510 Crossmember that I will flip for the engine swap, no big deal. The rear axle is (according to datsun1200.com) 2" wider than my stock H150, that being said.... I have a set of 14x7 +8 celica supra mags on my car now, rolled fenders all around and slightly pulled, I need new wheels anyways and have been doing a lot of thinking when it comes to scrub radius and if they will fit. First off I will be using Coilovers on Stock (or A10) front struts, and the A10 wagon rear axle. So what ive come up with is 15x7 +20 fronts, and 15x8 +40 rears, Im not concerned that the size of the lips will be different im just trying to fit them properly. As for tires I plan to run Toyo Proxes 4's 195/50 up front, 205/50 on the rear. Can anybody see why this wont work?

[ggzilla]

Sounds about right. You can always use spacers if the offset is not enough.