B210 X-member and Struts

[SlammedSunny]

Hey, I have been doing a lot of research for my KA24E swap lately, And I just want to confirm everything. I have a complete swap from a 89 240sx, and A H165 Rear end out on a 1981 510 wagon (canadian model). Now, I have access to the front crossmember and suspension from this 510 wagon. The information I have found is that the crossmember is a direct bolt in to my B210 and the KA24E will bolt to that, Is this correct? As well as I am planning to put front coilovers on my car utilizing the stock brakes and as far as I can tell the 510 front struts are 2" diameter and the hubs utilize the same bearings and seals as my stock B210 ones do. Therefore, there should be no reason why I couldn't convert them to coilovers and simply swap them into my car eliminating any downtime, is this also Correct? Thanks for the help!

[RedBanner]

I don't know if b210 brakes fit 510 struts.

Every thing else is sound.

 

[ggzilla]

The A10 crossmember is a bolt in for the 210, dunno about the B210.

 

The A10's H165 is not strong enough for a 2.4 liter engine. But will probably last if you drive it carefully.

 

A10 struts come with their own brakes, so don't use the B210 brakes on them. They already coilover design with 110mm O.D. coils.

 

B210 or A10 struts are 2" tube. You can convert either to adjustable spring perch, or fit aftermarket small diameter coilover springs to them. Not sure what your goal is.

[SlammedSunny]

Ill be converting to height adjustable Ground Controls with tokico inserts, Adjustable camber plates, and RCA's from T3. As for the brakes, sorry yes I will be using the A10 brakes if I use the A10 struts, I just want to make sure they will bolt in. According to datsun1200.com the H165 should handle a Ka24 with ease. I don't plan on modifying it either.

[ggzilla]

For a light car like the 1200 it may hold up, but the B210 is 25% heavier than 1200. KA24 has a lot of torque and Nissan fitted larger H190 or R200 behind them.

[datsfun]

Ill be converting to height adjustable Ground Controls with tokico inserts, Adjustable camber plates, and RCA's from T3. As for the brakes, sorry yes I will be using the A10 brakes if I use the A10 struts, I just want to make sure they will bolt in. According to datsun1200.com the H165 should handle a Ka24 with ease. I don't plan on modifying it either.

 

The H165 will handle 200bhp and 200lb/ft of torque. ( assuming you dont spend all day doing burnouts).. I had this in my A10 and it held up for 5 years of spirited driving with 200bhp...a n/a Ka24 should not trouble the H165 (inmho)..

[SlammedSunny]

I dont think it will be a problem and will take my chances, the H165 axle, front crossmember and front struts only cost me $50 all together. Plus here in Victoria, finding any Datsun parts is rare, Ive only seen one other B210 in town and 2 1200's

[RedBanner]

Oh, I guess ai missed the a10 part lol. Yeah that won't fit. Well won't bolt in.

[king bee66]

its going to be too wide

[ggzilla]

Guys use high-offset wheels with it, so the track width will be the same as with stock axle and stock wheels.

[SlammedSunny]

I know the rear axle is 2" wider than stock, and I will just use some high offset wheels to fit them untill I can afford to shorten a 8.8 rear end, Im more worried about the front crossmember

[RedBanner]

You need a flipped 510 (69-73) crossmember. The a10 (79-83 510/violet/stanza) is not a bolt in item.

[SlammedSunny]

Ok, well I guess Im going to have to swap the horns from my A series mounts to L series mounts if it wont bolt in, I mean hell even an S13 Subframe bolts in with a little massage work

[RedBanner]

What? It does? Use that then! Use the whole thing, and struts. Probly have mad camber but hell.

[RedBanner]

I have seen a s14 xmember "in" a 510 and it did not fit. So that leads me to believe you missed something here. Much wider car.

[ggzilla]

It fits with some massaging. Some cutting, some drilling, some welding.

 

The problem with B210 is it is exactly like a 510 crossember: mid-sump. That means both front sump KA and rear sump KA do not fit without modification of either to crossmember or the pan.

 

Just like 8.8 narrowing, it needs no money just some work.

[king bee66]

There is a guy on here doing a complete s14 front end swap in a b210. the amount of neg camber it creates makes the car undrivable.

[ggzilla]

S14 has been done several times to the narrower B110 including the rear IRS. With good camber too. Depends on how you do it.

 

Anyone can botch up a swap, that doesn't prove it's a bad idea.

[Kisor]

S13 cross member bolt holes are within 10 mm spacing of the b210. It bolts in like said previously with a little hole reaming. Problems are it is much lower than the B one. Lca mounting points are further apart. You could retain B 210 arms and only grow track by about an inch pet side. But if using S13 lowers its going to be over 2" per side. That's some funky strut angle to compensate for. Camber bolts would prob correct static camber but swept is going to change fast.

 

You would need to offset the strut tops out further to make it all work out.

 

I have a plan to do all of this on my '78B.

[ggzilla]

Good stuff.

 

Some guys redrill the LCA inboard holes closer together. There's always more than one way to do it. Do it the simplest way.

[SlammedSunny]

Could I use this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Solid-Aluminum-Crossmember-Datsun-510-KA-SR-KA24DE-SR20DET-/190704092596?hash=item2c66d985b4&item=190704092596&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

[Kisor]

Could I use this? http://www.ebay.com/...ssories&vxp=mtr

 

Don't let anyone see you considering that.... (although its a perfectly viable solution)

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/47430-510-ka-sr-ca-aluminum-crossmembers-from-just-intercoolers/

 

For the price though you could have a custom chromoly on made....

[ggzilla]

Some say 510 crossmember needs minor mods to fit B210 like trimming a corner or something. Others say it's a direct bolt in. Both might be correct, it might depend on the year of the B210.

 

Why order a custom chromoly steel rustable when you can buy an off-the-shelf alloy part?

[Kisor]

I posted the aluminum one a while back... it didn't get very good "reviews" from here.

 

 

 

 

 

Good stuff.

 

Some guys redrill the LCA inboard holes closer together. There's always more than one way to do it. Do it the simplest way.

 

I haven't looked into the redrill yet. I'm concerned about the pivot pointsbeing equal with the center link / inner tie rod points. If they are not the same distance you get weird bump steer and high rate toe through the up and down travel.

 

There are a lot of "ways" to accomplish it, but only a couple are correct. Lol...

[ggzilla]

Yes, that's why you redrill it, to match the pivot points for the drag link. Bump steer can be a little way off and most guys think it's fine, but it is better to have it match.

 

What they didn't like about the alloy crossmember was "looks weak" , although they didn't test it or try it. I agree the welds look iffy. But maybe it's OK. Drive it 50k miles and tell us if breaks.