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OldSkool's 521 Thread...the Mad Idiots Journal.


oldskoolvws

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I think so. Get hot Mister.

 

Actually, I think if the blocks were solid, you could drill and tap holes so that you could make the pin points adjustable.

 

Get hot Mister?????  You youngin's and your slang.....no clue what that means! lol

 

The hole on the underside of the block needs to be a hole instead of a pin.....to register on the bolt that holds the leafs together.  Making the one on top adjustable might be an advantage.  I like the idea, just not sure you'd ever move it more than once.  Maybe one directly above the bottom hole, then one halfway to your measure goal, then another at your goal.  If there's a problem elsewhere with you goal measurement, you could easily move it back half way.   Actually.....some square tubing with 3/8" or better wall thickness should work just fine if you can't get solid.

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You could remove the hangers and weld them wherever you want them. Or you could drill the perch and spring plate off center (fore or aft). I do this on offroad trucks when in a pinch.

 

If you drilled it an inch off center that would bring the axle CL to an inch back of stock. Wouldn't look bad. Actually, it doesn't look bad the way you have it now.

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INFORMATIONAL POST FOR BELLTECH LEAF SPRING CONVERSION

 

This worked one mine, so don't be whiney with me if it doesn't work for yours.

 

Necessary Parts:

(2x) Belltech Leaf Springs 5974 D21 HB: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-5974/overview/make/nissan/model/d21

(1x) Whiteline Upper Rear Shackle Bushing W73252: http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W73252

(2x) New Bolt, nut, flat washer and lock washer TBD [still investigating this option]

 

Optional Parts:

(2x) Universal Adjustable Lowering Blocks 1.5" to 3": http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Lowering-Block,2153.html [still investigating this option]

(2x) Shocks. At stance, my truck currently measures 15" eyehole to stem sitting collapsed on the shock which tells me I need probably more like 9" shocks. I'm going to remove the shocks completely and see where natural position is. This should give me good reference for new shock selection.

(2x) Airbags. I may put in airbags between the live axle and the frame, not sure yet.

 

You'll use both bushing sets that come with the leafs. The front will get the bushing and sleeve.

 

TOTAL MINIMUM IN for my setup: $350 for the setup. Can probably find discounts and free ship to reduce.

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Get hot Mister?????  You youngin's and your slang.....no clue what that means! lol

 

The hole on the underside of the block needs to be a hole instead of a pin.....to register on the bolt that holds the leafs together.  Making the one on top adjustable might be an advantage.  I like the idea, just not sure you'd ever move it more than once.  Maybe one directly above the bottom hole, then one halfway to your measure goal, then another at your goal.  If there's a problem elsewhere with you goal measurement, you could easily move it back half way.   Actually.....some square tubing with 3/8" or better wall thickness should work just fine if you can't get solid.

 

:) Let me speak real s l o o w  Mike.....m   a   k   e      i   t       f   o   r       m   e     p   l   e   a   s   e   .

 

 

 

 

 

You could remove the hangers and weld them wherever you want them. Or you could drill the perch and spring plate off center (fore or aft). I do this on offroad trucks when in a pinch.

 

If you drilled it an inch off center that would bring the axle CL to an inch back of stock. Wouldn't look bad. Actually, it doesn't look bad the way you have it now.

 

Yeah, I've done that whole reweld the the forward perch thing on a D21. That truck has to have the worst leaf perches ever.

 

 

 

 

 

do you have the stock driveline with carrier or a 1 pc?  might be concerned about pulling the driveline out.

 

I do currently have 2-piece. Just got me a 1 piece. Getting ready to soak it down and replace the universals. Anyone need a NOS carrier bearing and vintage universal for a 2-piece LOL.

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I ran into the same problem when I put 85 4x4 springs on my 80 chassis.  The 4x4 springs were longer by 2: and the centering bolt was 1.5: farther back from the center of rhe front eye.

 

My solution is to take the truck to a local spring shop and have them make a new main  leaf that will center my axle in the wheel well, drop the rear as low as I want and also set the pinion angle at the same time this will include completely rebuilding the spring packs complete with new custom made bushings and Teflon pads..  For $300 I will have the rear suspension completely rebuilt and not have to worry about anything.  This will be all done in 1 day.  I drop it off in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon.

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Why?

Because you're shifting the axle in relation to the leaf springs. The u-bolts move with the axle. The spring plate is part of the u-bolt assmebly. If you shift the axle and  u-bolt assembly, the hole in the spring plate where the leaf spring center pin pokes through will now be off by the same amount.

 

That adjuster block is kind of tecno-geek cool, but the reality is, once you have the axle located, why would you want to be able move it? I see that block as just another thing that could fail.

 

Racers use them to adjust the toe and bite of the rear axle, so they are adjusting them a lot.

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:) Let me speak real s l o o w  Mike.....m   a   k   e      i   t       f   o   r       m   e     p   l   e   a   s   e   .

 

LOL!  Did I ever hear from you about whether the shock bushings worked or not?

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LOL!  Did I ever hear from you about whether the shock bushings worked or not?

Still playing with them Mike. They fit for sure, just got to final install them. I'll finish the rear end then move to the front. I am most likely going to install a pan hard rod in the rear for a little added benefit too but the frame is so flimsy that I may need to reinforce and triangulate.

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