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OldSkool's 521 Thread...the Mad Idiots Journal.


oldskoolvws

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I would of been driving my 521 by now, on coilovers with the swap done, but 'The end of murica as we know it' needs campaign money, and my dad's drug addicted neighbors need their section 8 money to pay rent

Impeach Obama!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Also, worked on my antennae delete idea a bit. I had to get rid of my ghetto-rigged fender bolt and bezel for a better looking design and model. Don't need the antennae cause my phone or ipod will be the media device, including TuneIn, Pandora, etc.

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Started with this old rear wiper delete button I had (stainless). Filed down some of the rough edges and valleys.

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Broke out my Jool Tool (Fkn thing rules!!!) I bought at SEMA a few years back. I couldn't resist Annie's boobs. I like boobs. You may be able to find them here: http://jooltool.com/ I followed the multi-step process as needed to get it where I thought it was acceptable.

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All done after about 30 minutes of work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Doing a little interior remodeling here and there. Testing a few items .... in particular this little gem ... :hyper:

 

[VOLUME UP]

 

Just to prove it works...

 

 

 

Can you explain how these are wired/connected?

 

E1D52660-1D5D-4164-8075-E073B3C96709.jpg

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Black = 12V- Ground

Blue = 12V+ Constant

Red / Blue = Headlight 12V+

 

In the configuration I want, I'll likely just make myself a new pigtail utilizing the same style bullet connectors and clear heat shrink si I can plug into factory locations. Might have to solder a connection on the headlight switch and increase fuse sizes. Because I have the 520 dash, I don't the ink the factory hole layout is correct. I'll probably split my hazards and cigarette lighter for symmetry.

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Cool, thanks.

 

I didn't think about a backlight on the clocks.

 

Isn't there an extra blue power lead on the 521dash harness? Could be blue with a stripe. I seem to recall a wrapped power lead on mine. My old 521 dash had the clock hole punched out on the bottom of the dash. I swapped to the 520 as well.

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Seems like today would be a perfect day to revisit the BellTech Leaf spring project. Lets pull her out and see what we can do. Need to find them damn whiteline bushings I bought.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54215-au-rite-e-weve-talked-about-torsion-time-for-leafs/

 

Update later depending on how much progress I make :)

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Is that a Milwaukee electric ratchet?

 

 

I have the 1/4" version for work-I love it. 

Love all my Milwaukee tools. The only air tools I use anymore are my die grinders and my 1/2" impact gun. 

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Alright, FOR THE RECORD, THE BELLTECH 720 / HB SPRINGS FIT.

 

It didn't come without hardships but here it is. Sketchy before, test only:

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Stiff after.

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Hardship #1: The centering pin is dead center between the eye's on the Belltech's, off-set on the stock 521. The end result is that your rear end will need to go back roughly 2" once you install the leaf.

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Hardship #2: Because you need to move the axle back, the handbrake lines need to be removed from the rear keepers.

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More later, I'm tired.

 

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Back....2". Does not matter which way they go in. It's centered so 2" back it is. Not sure its an actual 2" but in theory it is. The thrust lines remain the same so the only concern is enough yoke in the drive shaft.

 

When you remove leafs like I did, in theory the arc angle goes back as as the shackles are in the back, I'm just not sure how much. This is because the springs go flat. The biggest I difference I notice right now is that with the OEM springs with packs removed the truck was like a basketball, you could bounce the back end up and down full stroke of the shocks by pushing down even with the air up. Now, solid hard with little deviation. I need to find shorter shocks though.

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The bushings that come with the springs fit the rear shackle bolt. Would recommend getting new rear uppers from whiteline (http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W73252).

 

The fronts however, looking for solutions. Right now best looks to be to use the bushings that came with the springs and change the bolt to a 10.9 14mm or 16mm. I think its actually 5/8"x5" but will experiment. Right now I just have the bolt in through the bushing loose to get it back on the ground. Will find out this week.

 

Looking at the axle, not to bad with the 2" push back. Not sure if I like it or not. Can't really tell to be honest. Don't mind the height, the air shocks are up. I still need to find shorter shocks. You also get about another 3/4" with the 2 little half stacks below the axle. I'm assuming these were added in to maintain geometries on the 720 / HB.

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If you were to use solid blocks instead of the extruded aluminum.....could you make them longer so that the bottome hole(leaf) and top hole(diff) were offset a 1-2"?  You'd have to redrill or slot the shock bracket the same amount.  I might be missing something, but it seems it would work to me.

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If you were to use solid blocks instead of the extruded aluminum.....could you make them longer so that the bottome hole(leaf) and top hole(diff) were offset a 1-2"?  You'd have to redrill or slot the shock bracket the same amount.  I might be missing something, but it seems it would work to me.

 

I think so. Get hot Mister.

 

Actually, I think if the blocks were solid, you could drill and tap holes so that you could make the pin points adjustable.

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