KA24DET B310 BUILD UP

[Lonestar]

Forum member Lonestar has 15x7 +0 Rewinds on his car. Notice how the rears are 5mm inside the fender but the fronts are 5mm outside the fender?

 

Swapping to 280ZX struts up front would tuck them in better.

 

Yup, I got a set of 280zx struts but I've held off in favor of doing an sr20det swap with full 240sx under carriage. I still dunno if I'm going to to do this or put an L motor in it. My fenders are rolled and I'm still rubbing just a tad on hard turning.

[Lonestar]

Other than that, my 210 would start jerking when I first got her. It always seemed to happened if I cranked over the motor to much when starting back up after driving for a good ways. I thought it was because I flooded it. Question, does your 210 knock or "diesel" when you shut it off cus mine does.

[ggzilla]

Dieseling or "running-on" is caused by the anti-diesel valve not working or idle is set too high.

 

Jesus, did draining the fuel bowl and changing the fuel filter resolve the problem? No more bucking?

[jesusno2]

dunno Im scared to drive it very far lol, runs fine around the block but it did that before too. like i said for such a serious issue, it sure is hard to get it to repeat 

[ggzilla]

Well then sell it and buy a new Kia. Or conquer your fear.

[jesusno2]

new kia's are nice, what my doesnt my datsun have a 100k warranty ha ha ha 

[COOCHaDAMus]

Well i duuno its a match box ignition so i dont really have much to go on, voltage is good on the coil, Cap, rotor all looks brand new still. no cracks in the cap connections are all clean. wires ohm out good no weird resistance. Plugs look good. Car runs like a top other than this issue, which so far i cant get a repeat, I'm still thinking i got some bad fue.l Also trying to hunt down a wobble in the steering at about 40 to 55 it shakes pretty good very annoying.

as i said before i helped max on the stereo, its the rear tire it has a titty on it. i believe its on the tread of the tire. ba ba boom theres your problem. peace

[jesusno2]

Tires got replaced ASAP the vibes from the front I'm guessing by the shake in the steering wheel maybe ball joints possibly they didn't seem bad when I had the struts out.

[ggzilla]

Steering Wheel shake on the B-bodies is most commonly caused by wheel balance. Even with good tires. Rotate fronts to back and see if it goes away.

[jesusno2]

I did didn't help its more wobble like something is loose just dunno what LOL almost like when a track bar bushing is worn. Not quite that bad but that same feeling I notice it more on curvy roads.

[ggzilla]

And you drive that thing? Get outside and find out what is loose before it kills you.

 

You cannot tell by looking if the rod-ends or ball joints are worn. You can check the steering linkage as follows:

1. lay on the ground near the driver's side door, looking at the underside of the car

2. reach up and wiggle the steering wheel back and forth (with the door open)

3. watch to see if any of the rods move independent of each other. If they do, the rod ends need replacement.

4. the steering knuckle, and thus tires, should move with the tie-rods

5. the idler arm should NOT move up and down

This can be easier if a mate handles the wheel, leaving you free to inspect the underside, but it can be done without an assistant. To double check any of the rod ends and idler arm, jack up the wheels and securely block the car, then wiggle the rod end ends forcefully by hand. There should be no play; they are supposed to rotate, but not move end-to-end. Finally, if in doubt, disconnect the rod-ends, they should move with a firm but smooth drag as you rotate them. If they flop around, they are worn out.

[datsunfreak]

My rule of thumb on tie rod ends and ball joints is unless they look brand new, replace them.   B)

 

They are cheap and (relatively) easy to change, and will eliminate a lot of potential problems.  :thumbup:

[ggzilla]

Can you send me all the good, but no-longer-looking-new parts you replace? Because I have never bought new tie-rods or ball joints in 30 years of running Datsuns. Although it is getting more difficult to find good used parts...

[mrmark]

I would think that used ball joints and tie rod ends could only be used for an automotive art project or maybe as paper weights.

[ggzilla]

Naw, in fact your Datsun has used tie-rods and used ball-joints right now ...

[jesusno2]

Drove my car car today to work and back today since flushing the fuel system, which is 55 miles round trip. No issues this time around. 

[datsunfreak]

Can you send me all the good, but no-longer-looking-new parts you replace? Because I have never bought new tie-rods or ball joints in 30 years of running Datsuns. 

 

 

Sorry, my life is worth more than that. And even though you don't think so, so is yours.  ^_^

[ggzilla]

Ha, i'll bet you didn't remove any good ball joints or tie-rod ends -- they were probably all bad.

[datsunfreak]

Ha, i'll bet you didn't remove any good ball joints or tie-rod ends -- they were probably all bad.

 

 

That's because there are no "good" 30+ year old ball joints.    ^_^

[jesusno2]

Still trying to solve my issue as previously posted car bogged out on me again the other day. I'm starting to wonder if I'm dealing with a Carb icing up I killed the ign soon as it started bogging down fuel bowl was full on the Webber fuel filter is full. I'm kinda ruling out a fuel delivery problem at this point.

[ggzilla]

Have you drained the fuel bowl additional times? Sometimes it takes a while for the crud to get out.

[graveltrapp]

When did you last/ever have your wheels balanced? I think I would start there as it is the easiest and perhaps the least expensive on the flow chart of speculation.

[jesusno2]

Have you drained the fuel bowl additional times? Sometimes it takes a while for the crud to get out.

fuel system is Qtip clean no issues their. like i said i pulled the top of the weber off on the side of the road to check. the filter is totally clear and SEE THROUGH lol 

[JAS]

mine gets the same way below 15*F in the morning, think it freezes in the carb throat.... Runs great now that its 35*F... Weber and no preheater.

[jesusno2]

well had a few warmer days and i'm pretty sure ive nailed it down to some kinda electrical problem somewhere. if i completely kill the ignition and just let the car sit for about 5 min it will cruise again for a undetermined amount untill it dies, so something is slowly heating up and killing the ignition or my ignition switch is tweaking out I dunno yet.