ggzilla Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 ZX struts will move the wheel/tire inboard less than 15 mm (no one has measured exactly the difference). It will be close 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 no one has measured exactly the difference Actually I have. It's exactly 14mm per side. B) 2 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Thanks for sharing that. It confirms what i estimated. 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Actually I have. It's exactly 14mm per side. B) Close enough! the other wheel i have is a +20 and its just flush maybe in the fender just a touch. that combined with a little -camber it should look nice. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Close enough! the other wheel i have is a +20 and its just flush maybe in the fender just a touch. that combined with a little -camber it should look nice. FYI, my +20 wheels (15x7) needed a 5mm spacer to not rub the 280ZX strut. Ideally a +5 to +15 is the best fit. And as you said, with a little bit of negative camber added, a zero offset is perfect. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
JAS Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Still just a sedan, coupes rule! 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Sedan: no rules, just right! 1 Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 Sedan man! Four is mour to love. plus its already paid four and yours... lots of o u r s in this pourst 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 so my 210 almost left me stranded tonight! I suspect it sucked some crud up into the fuel system, or i got some really rubbish gas. it was running fine for a good 50 miles then on the way back from the inlaws tonight it just started bucking and jerking and wouldnt do anything but idle. i checked for vapor lock that wasnt it carb wasnt frozen, (had that happen before) luckily the wife was with me and the ol' wrx scoob became a tow rig again! 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 If it has the stock carb, jist remove the mian jet plugs from outside the carb to drain the crud 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Has a 32 36 weber 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Check the screen under the inlet, will tell you quick if there is crud in the system. 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Just a touch of crap in their. I drained the whole system gas came outta the tank clean. So now I'm lost on why this thing started violently jerking and bucking. Hard parts trying to get it to repeat. I've drained all the fuel gonna get 5 gal at a different gas station. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 It is common for the carb to get a speck of crud in it, even though the tank is clean. Crud can either sink or float. Change the filter and drain the carby. She'll be right. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 If you think it's fuel, it's electrical. If you think it's electrical, it's electrical. :thumbup: Start checking the ignition system. 2 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 workin on it! seems weird it would idle and rev up fine in neutral if it was ignition related but who knows. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 workin on it! seems weird it would idle and rev up fine in neutral if it was ignition related but who knows. Not at all. Ignition systems can also have problems that are load-related. ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 24, 2012 Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 Yep, I been through that recently. 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 Well i duuno its a match box ignition so i dont really have much to go on, voltage is good on the coil, Cap, rotor all looks brand new still. no cracks in the cap connections are all clean. wires ohm out good no weird resistance. Plugs look good. Car runs like a top other than this issue, which so far i cant get a repeat, I'm still thinking i got some bad fue.l Also trying to hunt down a wobble in the steering at about 40 to 55 it shakes pretty good very annoying. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 24, 2012 Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 .l Also trying to hunt down a wobble in the steering at about 40 to 55 it shakes pretty good very annoying. In my past experience, this is usually worn out ball joints (most likely) or tie rod ends (less likely). 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 24, 2012 Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 In my experience shaking at 45-55 mph has always been wheel balance. But bad ball joints will cause the same thing. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 24, 2012 Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 So these are the entire symptoms? * it was running fine for a good 50 miles then on the way back from the inlaws tonight it just started bucking and jerking and wouldnt do anything but idle. That is most commonly fuel. Electrical doesn't usually act exactly like that. And the fact that you found crud in the fuel filter suggests it is a fuel problem too. Just drain the fuel bowl and see if that fixes it. 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 I flushed the whole fuel system so we'll see i really cant imagine the tiny amount of crud i found in the filter on the weber would make the car stall as badly as it was. as far as the wobble i had the struts apart today the tie rods and ball joints didnt seem that bad, or bad enough to cause the wobble it has drive shaft is tight also, I gave it a serious shake down test and watched for movement didn't notice anything. So for now thats on the back burner. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 24, 2012 Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 When you find crud in the filter, chances are something also got through the filter. A tiny, tiny, piece of crud in the tiny main jet will cause all these symptoms. It won't idle either, since the idle circuit is fed by the main jet. Give it a try and see if it now idles and runs correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2012 It always idled fine 3rd gear pull getting onto the highway when it started bucking and jerking like a 16 year old learning to drive a stick 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.