Looking for Bay Area 22RE *reputable* rebuilder

[oldskoolvws]

I know, not a Datto but this is a good place to network. I've owned my 87 4Runner since it was new on the lot but now it is tired. The clock just turned 296,000 on the original motor, no major issues except timing guides. This is my DD against all my newer cars. I love this thing.

 

I'm looking for another new motor or rebuild to carry me another 200-300K. Anyone know of anyone / shop that will rebuild me without turning my Japanese masterpiece to Chinese junk in the bay area? Needs to stand 100% behind their work with no BS.

 

Thanks.

[510T]

Yodaman in Santa Rosa.

707-764-6258

 

This is the place to go for Toyota in the North Bay.

[Ooph!]

Have you compression tested or torn it apart yet to see if the bores are worn? 297K is high but not extreme on a 22R.

depending where in the bay area you are Marino's automotive machine shop in Watsonville is reputable and particular about the work they turn out.

They have done my Datto L16, and some race engines as well as several regularV8 rebuilds me.

[oldskoolvws]

Yodaman in Santa Rosa.

707-764-6258

 

This is the place to go for Toyota in the North Bay.

 

Yeah, just worried about the cost of a Yodaman motor.

 

Have you compression tested or torn it apart yet to see if the bores are worn? 297K is high but not extreme on a 22R.

depending where in the bay area you are Marino's automotive machine shop in Watsonville is reputable and particular about the work they turn out.

They have done my Datto L16, and some race engines as well as several regularV8 rebuilds me.

 

I did do a compression test today, coincidence!

 

150 / 135 / 150 / 150

 

I hit cylinder 2 with a couple shots of oil, went up to 150. I'm running it today to get the oil blown out that I squirted in and will check it again. I may not have seated the adapter properly.

[OkieRA29]

Yay! My 85 Celica 22RE has 302K on the clock. Only on the second set of timing guides. This time I went with the engbldr set with the metal backed chain guides. Can't help with a rebuilder as I am not on that coast. Make sure that they use the metal backed chain guides and you should be good for another couple hundred K or so.

[HRH]

22R head is a boat anchor. Swap on a 20R head, or better yet, build an L, swap that bitch! :D And yes, I am serious.

[jrock4224]

your a baller go to lc engineerng and order a crate motor....maybe a super charger....lol.....

 

87 first year ifs?

[JoeCool]

Have you checked your local your amatuer circle racetrack? Ask around with the 4cyl racedrivers. The 22R engine is very popular for circle track racing. See who they use, you will have a beast.

[banzai510(hainz)]

LC Engineering if your rich

 

Do it your self

[OkieRA29]

Can't do the 20R head swap on any block later than early 84. Toyota for some reason lowered the deck height and went to a single row timing chain. Not to mention the 'RE' is an EFI engine and you have to do serious work to the 20R head to get the EFI to work. Better off throwning money into a port and polish if the head is good. If you do have money, get some LCE parts, cam, adj cam gear, oversized valves etc. The 22RE is a good motor, but takes huge amounts of money to get serious power out of them. They do respond well to boost, but not crazy levels. If you are just looking for DD stuff to do, port and polish, bigger cam and oversized valves should make it fun. Actually, if you have money, get a 7MGTE. Drops right in, 3 wires to run and responds decent to minor mods. First mod on a 7MGTE is Lexus AFM and 550cc injectors or RRFPR, safe up to 15lbs boost with those mods.

[HRH]

Anything is possible given imagination and some machine tools. ;) My KA used to be single row chain too.

[oldskoolvws]

This is gonna stay "reliable". 22RE will be going back in. The questions is from where. Sent Larry an e-mail from Yodaman, sent Oregon Engine an E-mail and called ENGNBLDR. Yodaman and OER will build the motor, question is at what expense. ENGBLDR will not build the motr due to shipping restraints.

 

I'm leaning towards either a rebuilt short block ($1Kish) and a new RV head from ENGNBLDR, a new factory short block ($1700ish) and new RV head or a complete "super sport" 22RE from OER with the lifetime warranty. Just need to decide and move forward. Truck is leaking coolant from behind the timing cover...got to fill everyday I drive.

[oldskoolvws]

Also, I would not buy an LC. I've heard too many horror stories from a few people I know who have had bad motors and bad warrranty claims from them. Out the cash because they didn't replace EVERYTHING on LC's install list which essentially is everything mechanical to the motor under the hood. Bad tolerances, bad warranty practices, etc. Expensive too.

 

Same with Keith Black pistons. If the tolerances are just not right on the upper ring gap to cylinder wall, failure because of the heat redirection of the piston to the upper ring. I almost bought a KB short block. Thankfully I didn't.

 

I'm not crawling or even mudding for that matter. Mainly a DD with some mud and snow here and there. My family is also on board at times so must be reliable.

[OkieRA29]

Careful about a new head as most are made in china nowadays. You might want to have your head checked and see if it is ok and use it if it is. Not saying that engbldr is bad, but I have heard stories of the chinese heads. Still think a 7M swap might be cheaper. Don't know about up there, but around here, you can buy a complete MkIII Supra for 500 or less. That gets you everything you need for the swap. Another 300 or so for the headgasket and ARP studs and you are good to go. More horsepower and just a good on reliablity. Look into it and see what it will run.

[OkieRA29]

Anything is possible given imagination and some machine tools. ;) My KA used to be single row chain too.

 

I did not say it was impossible, LCE sells a single to double row conversion and you can do it yourself as well. The cost vs benefit is the deciding factor. If you go with steel backed guides, there is really no difference in chain life. It is just a pain to not only do the conversion, but you also have to shorten the chain as well.

[oldskoolvws]

Well finally decided. Going with a Sunwest Automotive Engine. Could not find anything real bad about them, got excellent reviews and they're using high quality parts. Cost is comparable to other "higher" end builders. Specs will be something like this:

 

1-NEW HYPER PISTONS

 

2- OVERSIZED VALVES (1MM)

45.5mm Stainless Steel Intake Valves

37.5mm Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves

reduced shank swirl polished

 

3-PORT AND POLISHED NEW CYLINDER

HEAD, CYLINDER HEAD CASTING NEW

 

4-NEW LOW END CAM W/420 INT AND EXH

LIFT

 

5-NEW PERFORMANCE VALVE SPRINGS

 

6-STEEL TIMING CHAIN GUIDES

 

7- BALANCED ENGINE WITH SURFACED

FLYWHEEL AND BALANCER

 

8-NEW TIMING CHAIN COVER

 

9-NEW OIL PUMP

 

10-FULL SET OF GASKETS

 

11- PRE RUN ENGINE IN FACTORY

WITH PRINT OUT OF ACTUAL OIL

PRESSURE AND COMPRESSION.

 

Obviously it will be bored over, depending on the block wear of the donor "core" engine they already have. One thing I'm on the fence about is the Keith Black pistons. I may swap for OEM's. The KB and OEM pistons are the same compression. The KB are hyper pistons but it has no lower skirts. The OEM version has the lower skirts that reduce wobble and allow the engine to last longer. Yes the wobble normally goes in the direction of travel, but after 300K it happens. And yes the tolerance is not as tight as the KB pistons, but for another 300K OEM might work way better. Thoughts?

 

 

KB is notorious for this because of the heat redirection and the small skirts (stolen pics)(usually after a few years of use):

 

 

 

This pic shows the OEM setup with bottom skirts. For longevity, I may go back to these.

 

[OkieRA29]

Since driveability and reliability is the major motive here, I would stick with OEM. If you were looking at boost or other stuff, I would say KB or other.