My Turbo L-Series Build (Previously question for best turbo L-series head)

[ggzilla]

Best head casting would be the H77 -- includes the injector notches and fits the EFI manifold already.

[D52E]

More part:

 

Turbo V-band inlet and outlet:

 

Cylinder head intake/exhaust studs:

[Kirden]

Wow, wanting to do this to my L18 now... Following the topic so I can see what I prefer, KA or L18T :P

[denis.drc]

Still waiting for the flanges but i started to mock-up manifold options:

 

 

 

Looks awesome! Can't wait to see the final result!!!! :thumbup:

 

 

Where did you get the FANCY piping? I love that thick-wall stuff.

[D52E]

The piping is sch10 1.5" and I got it from Ace stainless supply in Santa Ana CA. I happen to be out in that area for Christmas week so I stopped in and picked up the bends.

[denis.drc]

The piping is sch10 1.5" and I got it from Ace stainless supply in Santa Ana CA. I happen to be out in that area for Christmas week so I stopped in and picked up the bends.

 

Thank you, sir!

[slowmomiata]

what is this engine going in because i was mocking up my draw through design today and i only see one flaw with this, your turbo is going right onto your motor mount, it will hit theres not alot of room to be stuffing the turbo into right there where yours looks to my mocked up, i plan on writing up my build thread tomorrow with pics and all the info on the turbo setup etc, its literally a free build but more will be posted tomorrow :)

[D52E]

The vehicle is 1969 PL510 (2 Door).  The initial mock-up was a bit crude and very close to the mount bracket on the motor (1982 720 truck mount bracket at time of picture). 

 

I have since acquired a PL510 mount bracket for the next mock-up.  I am waiting for the exhaust flanges for the next mock-up.  The supplier has informed me that the flanges will go into production soon.  They are supposed to be 1/2" thick CNC machined cold rolled steel.   The head used for the pattern was a stock port unmodified U67 with square ports.  The outlet on the flanges is supposed to be 1.5" round transition (recessed) for weld -els.  I hope they come out good.  I will try to post as soon as I get them in hand.

[denis.drc]

The supplier has informed me that the flanges will go into production soon.  They are supposed to be 1/2" thick CNC machined cold rolled steel.   The head used for the pattern was a stock port unmodified U67 with square ports.  The outlet on the flanges is supposed to be 1.5" round transition (recessed) for weld -els.  I hope they come out good.  I will try to post as soon as I get them in hand.

 

Sounds promising! Excited to see the flange.

[D52E]

Flanges are here:

Head side

 

Manifold side

 

Close up of the transition

 

Side profile

[EricJB]

Man that is nice. The transition to round will make it easier to weld up. I didnt think to do that. I had mine laser cut.  

[Xnke]

Awesome head flange...how much for one?

[D52E]

I'm working on adding up my costs to get the flanges produced (shipping parts back and fourth to the manufacturer, packaging and any other incidental part costs).  I estimate about $35 to $40 a piece plus shipping for the 8 flanges I will sell.  I still have to figure out best shipping cost and packaging to try and keep cost down for us. 

 

Also, I am considering limmiting sale to one per person - I would prefer to pass these parts on at cost to Ratsun members and reduce the likelyhood of someone purchasing them to flip them for a profit.

[VintageRice]

Those flanges are NICE holy crap and precise.  $40 is an absolute STEAL.  I got quotes upwards of $300 for a waterjet cut flange for my KA24e back when I did mine.

 

Ended up learing a cheap free CAD program and sending the file off to a plasma guy and still cost me about the same as that.  Nice.

[denis.drc]

WOW! That is indeed an amazing flange!

[73DATSON]

I'm working on adding up my costs to get the flanges produced (shipping parts back and fourth to the manufacturer, packaging and any other incidental part costs). I estimate about $35 to $40 a piece plus shipping for the 8 flanges I will sell. I still have to figure out best shipping cost and packaging to try and keep cost down for us.

 

Also, I am considering limmiting sale to one per person - I would prefer to pass these parts on at cost to Ratsun members and reduce the likelyhood of someone purchasing them to flip them for a profit.

I'll be your first customer. Let me know when your ready for sell:-))

[RacnJsn95]

Wow, very nice looking flange for the price! Super clean! How much would they be in the future since you aren't sending a head in as part trade?

[spudly13]

subscribed!

[D52E]

As far as price direct from the supplier, I'm not sure what they will sell them for. Now that the company has the CAD file and CNC file I would imagine they can easily make more Parts.

 

Also it looks like 4 or 5 members have PM me expressing interest in flanges. I will give them first shot once I get my self over to the post office and confirm the best flat rate shipping cost.

[datsun 521 ute]

Good to see your sticking with the L series. :thumbup:

Have you thought of using the turbo diesel manifold from a LD20T? This is a factory cast manifold which bolts straight on and the head only needs a little port matching. Has Nissan T25/28 flange, I also used the LD20T inlet manifold as it has rather big runners and had a friend make a custom plenum for it.

What turbo are you looking at running and also what cam?

Nice maching on those flanges by the way.

[D52E]

521 ute - I have not been able to find a source for an LD20T manifold in the USA.  I believe these were not sold here. 

 

Do you have a recommended source that can ship to the USA?

[datsun 521 ute]

No I don't unfortunately. I was fortunate enough to find my setup several years ago, I didn't even know those engines were issued in Australia. Although I am waiting for someone to get back to me in regards to one of these manifolds.  

[Jim Young]

If you still have round port flanges, or are considering ordering more, add my name to the list.

 

I've gotten a few more parts than I can use to make one L20B with either a W58 Peanut Head (needs checkout and squaring up, at least, since the cam binds) or a W58 open chamber head, though that would have to come off a long block that turned out to have still been good after 200,000 miles.  I pulled it to keep to keep too many parts dissapearing from it before the half price day at Ecology, expecting another guy to take the block when he got the chance to get back to me.  He hasn't called back so I have to decide whether I'd be better off selling the whole engine for what I paid for it or keeping the head for my rebuilt short block. I'd rather not use the stock exhaust manifold (why I'm interested in the flanges) and haven't found any other after market manifolds (or used ones) for what I consider a good enough price. 

 

I'd also like to get an L16 finished that needs a freshened up short block (it ran but has gotten surface rust since the 210 head with a bad valve seat was removed). Besides the 210 open chamber head with the bad valve seat, I have 2 A87 peanut heads that need some machine work to overcome some deep gouges on the head surface, clean up or replacement of rusty cams, and what look to be reground valves sunk in a little to deep, etc.

 

If one of the A87 heads check out, I'd consider having it rebuilt with a couple of L28 cam tower fitted to it with a shortened cam spray bar (made from the L28, with the center section cut out and rewelded to fit the L20B).  I'm not sure how big the oil to head restricter should be drilled out to handle the extra volume but I was able to get a couple of what I believe are the higher volume L28 Oil Pumps (one aluminum and one iron).

 

Though my number one priority is getting one of the L20B's freshened up for the 73 521 and mated to a short tail 5-speed (from a Z22 but with the L-series front half), I will probably finish the L16 as a more economical engine and test both for gas mileage, selling whichever is left over after the testing.

 

Since I'm beginning to favor fuel efficiency over the higher performance engines I used to build, I'm considering acquiring a Z22 head, front timing cover, and other accessories to put on the L20 short block to see if there might be an affordable path to an engine that incorporates direct injection.  I understand back in the 50s, Mercedes adapted their 6-cylinder engine for the 300SL by using a second spark plug hole for the direct injector input.  I believe that might be possible with the dual plug NAP-Z engine also, and would prefer to use the smallest one possible for the least expense, which to me, would be the L20B block with the Z head and a combination direct and port fuel injection system depending on the cost of adapting an electronic control system.

 

Any thoughts, suggestions, or crossfedd from similar projects aimed at fuel efficiency would be greatly appreciated.

[620Turbo4X4]

Latest aquisition - Z22 engine block from 1983 720 4X4 truck.  Bore is at 87mm and looks like stock pistons (mileage unknown).  headgasket was original looking and labeled Nissan.  Oil looks and smelled ok - no aparaent metal debris visible in oil.  Engine turned over freely and compression resistence felt on all 4 cylinders.  Clutch that came on it was coming apart (possible reason for truck in junkyard?).  I will take the oil pan off and check rod/main bearings later.

 

If I match this block with the U67 head i will have to do some valve unshrouding and combustion chamber CC'g to reduce compression.  According to the OZDAT calculator this will yield 9.7:1 static compression.  I will have to remove about 6CC's to bring the static compression down to 9:1.

 

 

I would highly recommend going throughout that bottom end and getting "forged" and dished pistons if you want it to last for more than a day. The factory cast pistons won't withstand much boost for very long, and with all the pressures and heat involved with turbocharging. by the time you hear it pinging under boost, it will be too late…

 

The lower you can get the compression the better. 9.7:1 is pretty high even for a N/A engine. You won't be able to run much more than 3 lbs boost without detonation and preignition. Theres really no use in even having a turbo if it only has 3lbs boost. I recommend getting it down to at least 8:1 so you can run 10-15 psi and make some power.

 

Head studs will be a necessity. I would have the blocks head gasket surface cut for o-rings around combustion chambers, and seriously think about some ARP rod bolts and main studs.

 

 

You also need stainless valves. The stockers will melt.

 

 

 

I'm also starting a turbo lz frankenstein build.

 

Photo of my intake so far,

 

[D52E]

Thanks for sharing.  That is a nice looking intake manifold.