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L16 Mods - Looking for input Dual Mikunis? Header? Ignition?


BenTerrible

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L16 is bone stock. Original plan was to dump in the SR20DET S15. Car is one of the cleaner ones out there and I am unsure at this point if I want to put it through a motor swap.

 

Anyhow, suspension is also in the works. Would like to get a little more out of the stock motor. Considering twin 40 mikunis, ignition upgrade, exhaust, and possibly a 5 speed dogleg trans.

 

Just wanted to start a thread to get input on the Mikuni setup, tuning, performance, reliability, so on.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

-BT

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All that work will still not make the L16 fast. Swap in L20B if you want faster but still with a stock look.

 

* Ignition: Upgrade to Datsun electronic ignition and ditch the maintenance-requiring points

* Header: L16 & L20B are already fitted with free-flowing cast iron header from the factory

* Exhaust: It's for looks, not for power

* 5-speed: Doesn't make your car accelerate faster or have a higher top speed. Just lowers noise and engine wear when crusing on the freeway

* Dual-Mikuni PHH: Looks sick and sounds wild. Go for it!

 

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All that work will still not make the L16 fast. Swap in L20B if you want faster but still with a stock look.

 

* Ignition: Upgrade to Datsun electronic ignition and ditch the maintenance-requiring points

* Header: L16 & L20B are already fitted with free-flowing cast iron header from the factory

* Exhaust: It's for looks, not for power

* 5-speed: Doesn't make your car accelerate faster or have a higher top speed. Just lowers noise and engine wear when crusing on the freeway

* Dual-Mikuni PHH: Looks sick and sounds wild. Go for it!

 

You're right about the header and the L20B swap. I would be sure to re-curve the distributor and the exhaust will make you power, just don't go too big. For a stock L20B, I'd go 2.25" and a turbo muffler. Unless you want loud, then a straight through or "lazy s" muffler like a Magnaflow or Borla. Borla straight through mufflers are worth 5hp on a ITC L-16 so maybe a little more on an L20B.

 

And I wouldn't run Mikunis on a stock L motor. Mild porting of the ports and bowls, larger valves and a cam are needed before Mikunis help in HP. If you get lucky and find a L20B with one of the desired heads (like a W53 or U67) this would help. If you got really lucky and found a 219 head that would be huge. A DGV Weber on a stock motor is all you really need.

 

But yes, Mikunis do look and sound cool!!!

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Your first Datsun? 510?

 

Everyone name drops the SR or the KA or VG then they find out how much work there is to do it and how much more work it is to do it right. Any experience swapping motors? Well helping a bud swap a civic motor won't help here. Many many things are one offs... custom made parts to make the motor fit. All the above motors are EFI going into a car that only had carbs so the whole fuel system needs changing. The power is so high that only a fool would run a 510 with stock brakes and suspension.

 

Better to just drive it. Fix the small things and upgrade the brakes and suspension while you enjoy it. Get it 'sorted out' and over the winter look for an L20B motor and build it. Slip it in next summer. The L20B is just the L16's big brother and not a lot of mods needed to slip it in. By now you have the car handling and stopping properly and maybe time for a bit more power (it's ok now)

 

Maybe a KA24 E or DE. They're cheap and plentiful and make good power. Convert to EFI.

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... Bigger brakes are a good idea!

 

SR20 makes it a rocket ship. Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely. At any time or place chances are you will be going faster than if you had the stock L16. The 510 brakes were adequate..... 40 years ago. Today they are a joke. (I mean no disrespect saying this) ... a car's braking performance should far exceed any of it's other abilities.

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As far as carbs go check this out. It is long but has lots of good info on using motorcycle carbs.

 

http://community.rat...s-lots-of-pics/

 

All you need is a manifold, throtle cable and a good jetting.

 

Best part, they are cheaper than twin sidedrafts.

 

Dogleg trannys are cool but reverse is where 2nd should be soooo.... it takes some getting used to. I went through 2 dogleg 5speeds in my old 310. I kept shifting into reverse at like 20 mph.

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All that work will still not make the L16 fast. Swap in L20B if you want faster but still with a stock look.

 

* Ignition: Upgrade to Datsun electronic ignition and ditch the maintenance-requiring points

* Header: L16 & L20B are already fitted with free-flowing cast iron header from the factory

* Exhaust: It's for looks, not for power

* 5-speed: Doesn't make your car accelerate faster or have a higher top speed. Just lowers noise and engine wear when crusing on the freeway

* Dual-Mikuni PHH: Looks sick and sounds wild. Go for it!

 

Actually with the correct gearing, the 5spd will make your car accelerate faster, and with an overdrive, it will give you a higher top speed if your car can handle higher speeds. Most cars are limited on top speed by aerodynamics. Everything factors in: Rear diff gearing, tire and wheel combo, and the trans you use will offer different gearing options.

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If it is a stock L-16, a L-20-B cam will liven it up a bit. Make sure the rocker arms stay in position.

 

Check the basics first. Timing, Valve adjustment, air filter. Do not be afraid to let the L-16 rev.

 

My opinion, FIVE SPEED WILL NOT MAKE THE CAR GO FASTER, unless you change the rear axle ratio.

 

As with any engine, are the rings good? Are the valves in good shape? How is the compression? Stock L-16 should be 159 to 171 PS.

 

There are benefits in changing the exhaust system after the stock L-16 exhaust manifold to something more free flowing.

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If your 5spd has a lower gear set (higher numerically) than your 4spd, then yes, it's just like putting a lower geared (higher numerically) rear diff in your car. It will make the car quicker. You can argue how quick, but it will help. The lower geared 5spd I put in my '65 Mustang took one second off my 1/4 mile time. It's a ratio of numbers, you have to get the ratios correct.

 

With that though, I will stop pushing my opinion.

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Agreed. With the correct gearing, the Four Speed will make your car accelerate faster. Yes, the differential gearing has the biggest effect on acceleration.

 

And with a more powerful engine it will give you a higher top speed.

 

The most popular 5-speed for the 510 has the same ratios as the 4-speed along with an extra "overdrive" gear. But since 510 is HP limited for top speed, 5spd alone won't make it faster. You could fit the longer truck 5-speed and get lower 1st 2nd and 3rd gears.

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Mikes first post pretty much summed it up.

 

Sort out the little things, get some good wheels, tyres and suspension.

 

Do your research for a bit longer and decide if you really want to go through the cost of an engine swap to a non L series, compared with upgrading to an L18 or an L20. Theres benefits in engine swaps although it depends on how much money you have to spend.

 

Down the track you may find someone who has a complete long motor for sale( L series) with the twin carbs and other goodies you want.

 

Daniel also gave some good advice I.e. don't be afraid to rev the L16!

 

My two cents worth.

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I will be the first to admit when I'm wrong.... ggzilla made a good point that I wasn't considering, and that is for the most common Datsun swaps the 4spd does have the lowest gear set. Here is what my research found, hopefully this is helpful for other people:

 

KA24(D)E & SR20DET (S13/S14):

1st- 3.321

2nd- 1.902

3rd- 1.308

4th- 1.000

5th- 0.759

 

SR20DET (S15)

1st- 3.626

2nd- 2.20

3rd- 1.541

4th- 1.213

5th- 1.000

6th- 0.767

 

280zx

1st- 3.062

2nd- 1.858

3rd- 1.308

4th- 1.00

5th- 0.864 ('78-79)

5th- 0.773 ('79-80)

5th- 0.745 ('80-83)

 

510

1st- 3.382

2nd- 2.013

3rd- 1.312

4th- 1.00

 

optional 510:

1st- 3.657

2nd- 2.177

3rd- 1.419

4th- 1.00

 

200sx

1st-3.382

2nd-2.013

3rd-1.312

4th-1

5th-0.854

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Your first Datsun? 510?

 

Everyone name drops the SR or the KA or VG then they find out how much work there is to do it and how much more work it is to do it right. Any experience swapping motors? Well helping a bud swap a civic motor won't help here. Many many things are one offs... custom made parts to make the motor fit. All the above motors are EFI going into a car that only had carbs so the whole fuel system needs changing. The power is so high that only a fool would run a 510 with stock brakes and suspension.

 

Better to just drive it. Fix the small things and upgrade the brakes and suspension while you enjoy it. Get it 'sorted out' and over the winter look for an L20B motor and build it. Slip it in next summer. The L20B is just the L16's big brother and not a lot of mods needed to slip it in. By now you have the car handling and stopping properly and maybe time for a bit more power (it's ok now)

 

Maybe a KA24 E or DE. They're cheap and plentiful and make good power. Convert to EFI.

 

Sweet...SR20VET it is!

 

SR20VET??? I see a 510 for sale next spring with an unfinished SR swap. Lack of planning, money, research, time and skills leads to loss of interest in the whole car.

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As far as carbs go check this out. It is long but has lots of good info on using motorcycle carbs.

 

http://community.rat...s-lots-of-pics/

 

All you need is a manifold, throtle cable and a good jetting.

 

Best part, they are cheaper than twin sidedrafts.

 

Dogleg trannys are cool but reverse is where 2nd should be soooo.... it takes some getting used to. I went through 2 dogleg 5speeds in my old 310. I kept shifting into reverse at like 20 mph.

 

Correction 1st is where 2nd should be.

And reverse is where 1st is on a standard transmition.

It is confusing at first but I like it better. I have a dog leg in one car (love it) and a 4sp in my wagon and I haven't ever messed up by trying to put it in reverse. Have started in second a few times in the wagon though.

 

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Correction 1st is where 2nd should be.

And reverse is where 1st is on a standard transmition.

It is confusing at first but I like it better. I have a dog leg in one car (love it) and a 4sp in my wagon and I haven't ever messed up by trying to put it in reverse. Have started in second a few times in the wagon though.

And when a friend needs to borrow it, dont tell him. Instead just stand there and laugh at him like he's an idiot who cant drive a stick.

 

If it runs and drives, dont tear it apart. As stated above tune it up and sort out it's other issues. drive it while finding a good deal on an L20/5 speed, and swap it over a weekend. Dont turn it into a "someday" project. Someday never comes.

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SR20VET??? I see a 510 for sale next spring with an unfinished SR swap. Lack of planning, money, research, time and skills leads to loss of interest in the whole car.

 

speaking from Experience? well more than 220 posts

 

no

just ck the Dime Quarterly "for sale" section or here every now and then

Gregslist also is a good donor of projects

 

i go to craigslist/ cars and trucks/projects all the time. It is pretty disturbing to see how many cars get completely disassembled, stripped of paint, and the just sit.

 

A nice heated, well equiped shop, and a very understanding GF or wife is also mandatory. Being a gearhead has made me a single guy more than once.

How many for sale ad's have you seen that start with "the wife says it has to go"

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