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Dual Mikuni Center Pull Setup


oldskoolvws

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Thread jacking is authorized. I can never seem to find enough information on Mikuni's. I have more sets of dual carbs than I know what to do with and it's interesting to see the variations that people come up with to make work. I may try the ggzilla method above. I don't have the heart to cut the Mikuni Manifold.

 

I'll post some pics of the manifold soon.

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The only way to get the linkage to clear the manifold is to use the rubber Nismo carb isolators. They are thick enough to clear, but you may want to machine the manifold 1/1/6" or so to add peace of mind. There are many different ways to do center pull, and some of them use different length arms. Which setup do you have?

 

Here's a pic of the isolator I'm talking about. It's actually a Roadster isolator, but it's close enough.

Roadster_Isolator_2.jpg

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Well it orginally had the Nismo isolators like your photo.

 

When the carbs were not running right, I was concerned about some cracks in the rubber, so I took them off. While it didn't fix the problem, it seems to run fine w/o the isolators. The problem turned out to be the DCOE air cleaners. I had to drill (another) vent hole in the base plates as the DCOE base plates covered the Mikuni/Solex bowl vents. I did't have room in the small 1200 to fit taller air cleaners. It came with no air filter, but velocity stacks only.

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Well it orginally had the Nismo isolators like your photo.

 

When the carbs were not running right, I was concerned about some cracks in the rubber, so I took them off. While it didn't fix the problem, it seems to run fine w/o the isolators. The problem turned out to be the DCOE air cleaners. I had to drill (another) vent hole in the base plates as the DCOE base plates covered the Mikuni/Solex bowl vents. I did't have room in the small 1200 to fit taller air cleaners. It came with no air filter, but velocity stacks only.

 

Yeah, that vent hole has caused many people the same problem. If it runs fine without any isolators, don't mess with it. I wonder if the fact that it's a small displacement motor, with less probable vibrations, has anything to do with it?

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there's no way in hell I get away with no isolators on mine... Lumpy cam =shaky idle

 

Believe it or not Cody, your idle will improve with the dual carbs. I would still get the isolators though...and a center pull...and a backing plate...and a heat shield...and a good fuel pressure regulator...

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I had planned on all that, cant afford the best of the best things, but...backing plate? I assume that is the filter backing plate to tie the carbs together?

 

Correct. Filter would normally be optional, but knowing where you live, I might recommend one. The single backing plate ties the carbs together which is vital because the center pull linkage can affect carb balance when you romp on it. The backing plate keeps this from happening.

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I think this is what oldskoolvws was originally referring to:

 

dcoe_linckage.gif

 

But yeah, it looks like that setup would hit the Mikuni manifold...

 

It looks like Pierce Manifolds has some DCOE stuff, but who knows if it's compatible with Mikunis? http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm3718.htm

 

And it would appear that Troy Ermish used to have Mikuni specific center pull linkage, but not anymore? http://www.ermish-racing.com/onlinestore.cfm

 

I like the idea of the center pull linkage, as it looks like there is less room for error. I have the same crossbar setup as Hainz and ggzilla, but now the plastic bushings on the rod are wearing out. That = small amount of play between throttle levels.

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This is the problem with the Mikuni manifold. Where the throttle cable needs to come up, the Mikuni cross tube is in the way.

 

That's why using the soft carb isolators helps. So they're $35 each, and you've got some time in setting them up. At least you don't have to cut your manifold in half.

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