How to put a Weber 32/36 on that shaggin waggon

[Smyrna720]

First, order the carb. Then open the box. This is what you'll find.

 

 

 

 

Here is what you get.

 

 

 

The first step is installing the SHORT studs into the adapter. I used a little locktite and screwed them in by hand flush with the bottom of the plate. Make sure the plate is correct side up, so you can install the allen head capscrews in later. Divots on top.

 

 

I don't even know why I put that stupid gasket on there. I didn't even use it.

 

 

Then, look at your engine longingly. Imagine what your Weber will look like here.

 

 

I've removed all my emissions equipment already, so you'll probably have more stuff to disconnect than I do, but I digress. Remove negative battery cable, jack the vehicle up and remove the tires. Just kidding. Do remove the battery cable though.

 

Pull off the distributor vacuum advance.

 

 

Next, pull off the cannon plug for the carb electronic controls if you have it, and the EFE heater plug

 

 

Then, the ground wire to the intake manifold. It's 12mm, but you'll have better luck with a #3 phillips head screwdriver.

 

 

Use a 10mm wrench or socket and pull off the accelerator cable mounting bracket.

 

 

Pull the throttle to WOT and slide the end of the cable towards the firewall to turn it free.

 

 

Drink beer, and smoke cigarettes.

 

Now that's done, remove the fuel line clamp. 1/4 on my removable bit screwdriver works well here.

 

 

Now we can remove the mounting nuts... huh huh, nuts. That's what she said.

 

12mm. Use a short wrench.

 

One

 

 

Two

 

 

Three

 

 

Fo.

 

 

Carefully pull up on the carb, and remove the nuts that you couldn't get completely off. Gently pry on the fuel line and lift slowly. DON'T drop any nuts or washers. Turn 'er loose...

 

 

WAIT! OMG WTF ARE YOU DOING? DON'T THROW THAT AWAY! ARE YOU RETARDED?

 

Calm yo tits fool. You might need that someday. Put it on the shelf. Dummy.

 

Anyways, now that that hunk of shit is off you motor, breathe a sigh of relief. you're not even halfway done.

[Smyrna720]

Pull the EFE plate and that other plate thing off. Save it too. You never know, somebody out in California might want it.

 

 

The fuel line as it sits will hit the adapter. Pry it away, but don't go too far. We'll do more with this later.

 

 

Check fitment.

 

 

 

Good enough.

 

Next, pull the old studs out. You can do it like this:

 

 

But that's not the best way. You should double nut it. Huh huh, double nut.

 

 

This is why. New studs are longer.

 

 

New studs in, gasket on.

 

 

Adapter on

 

 

Allen heads in. 5 or 6mm, I can't remember.

 

 

'Nother gasket.

 

 

Wait, wait, what are you doing? Put the nuts down... we're not bolting it on yet. We have fuel line issues.

 

GO EASY with this. Don't kink or break the line.

 

Pull the carb off and using a tapered punch, pull the fuel line away from the baseplate of the carb and toward the fuel inlet.

 

Check fit.

 

 

Mess with it a little bit. Get it somewhat right. It took me 3 tries using various tools. A wrench, a punch and a dead blow hammer did it for me.

 

 

Yeah, I guess that'll work.

 

Next, put your clamps on. BOTH of them. Tighten the bottom one and leave the top one loose.

 

 

Then I guess you can tighten the top one.

 

 

Still got your nuts? Good. Put the on. Things to note. #1, there are two different sizes nuts AND wave lock washers. Small silver ones on the passenger side, 7/16ths if I recall and the bigger ones on the driver side are 12mm. Why? I don't know. #2, don't forget to put that throttle return spring bracket on. Driver side rear bolt.

 

 

Tighten everything down.

 

[Smyrna720]

Throw the NEW throttle cable mount on there. Check fit.

 

 

Fit obviously fucking sucks.

 

Slide the cable in and see how bad it is.

 

 

 

Wow, shitty. We can do better than that.

 

Use a round file to fix the slot that won't allow the cable to slide in all the way

 

Then, Instead of right angles, make it look like a Z. A bench vise is helpful here

 

 

Much gooder

 

Tighten the jam nuts. 14mm.

 

 

Hook the vacuum advance back up.

 

 

Not done yet. Still gotta hook up the electric choke. I wanted to maintain at least SOME professionalism, so I pulled a wire out of the cannon plug from the CARB end, and worked some magic. It's longer now, blue and has a female spade terminal on one end.

 

 

Put it in the BLUE wire terminal on the 6 plug connector. That's the factory electric choke wire. Also, while you're at it, hook that ground back up. #3 phillips, remember?

 

 

Might look something like this

 

 

Zip tie that shizzle out of the way,

 

 

Cross your fingers and pray you didn't drop something in the intake or leave a step out.

 

In theory, it should run.

 

Good luck.

[metalmonkey47]

Only the first few pics are working.

[datzenmike]

Very nice any foo can do this now.

[Eagle_Adam]

i see em all, great write up!

[Smyrna720]

I learned this in the military.

 

There are no implied tasks.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Awesome how to !

Hows the performance compared to the stock carb ?

[KELMO]

Nice how to. Got my glass of Kool Aid and I'm fixin to drink it.....just lately it seems every time I turn around someone is talkin bout the Weber....time to find one for the 1200.

[Smyrna720]

Awesome how to !

Hows the performance compared to the stock carb ?

 

Um, I dunno yet. Check out his thread. Maybe I'll know by the end of the day.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/48285-carbretarder-or-ignition-problems/

[JoeCool]

Good write up. And the comedy was a nice added touch. I gotta get a Weber carb for my truck, the Hitachi is a POS. Floods and ruins like shit when the air is even slightly cool.

[RidgeRunner]

Sorry for reviving an older topic... but great write-up and pictorial! I wish I'd found it before installing mine, would've made it easier to follow someone else's stumbling blocks than to figure my way around them myself (bending the fuel line, bending/filing the throttle cable bracket, orientation of the throttle linkage).

 

I see your intake manifold is slightly different than the one on my '84 (larger carb base opening than mine). At the end of the adapter plate closest the engine, I see the manifold protrudes just a hair into the opening of the adapter... on mine, that protrusion was greater (i.e., a little "shelf" there... might be why mine is a bit noisy when opening the secondaries). I'm tempted (when time allows) to pull the manifold and hog it out with a die grinder. Your carb looks different too, I guess that's the electronically controlled one? Mine had a smaller electrical connector with only 2 wires. (anti-dieseling and choke). Perhaps the manifold difference has something to do with that too. 

[slemers]

What did switching to the Weber do to your fuel economy? Any difference? Did you go with the electric choke?

Inquiring mnds want to know :)

[RidgeRunner]

I haven't run mine enough since the swap to tell what the mpg is like. Maybe the OP will chime in. 

[Scurrvy]

How far is smyrna from gallatin? And could I pay you to come help a brother out? 

[Mr.Dean_Yates]

I need an adapter plate...my weber was drilled out to fit (facepalm)