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'77 Datsun 620


gijosh

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SO a short story first:

 

A few years back my Dad bought an old '77 Datsun 620. it was a really reliable truck that My dad loved to drive. Cops would pull him over just to ask about it. People would follow him to the store just to ask him about it.

Then something went wrong, the truck wouldn't start anymore, and so he parked it in the backyard where it sits now and began to collect dust. Last year, he was diagnosed with terminal brain cancer and past. He went inaudible in onle few months before he could tell me what was wrong with the truck, even though he new. My dad had restored a few vehicles by himself when I was younger.

My Mother recently said i could have the truck to sell or restore it if I wanted to. Unfortunately, I'm a computer nerd, and have never taken on anything of this magnitude without help from my dad.

 

http://i150.photobuc...ation/front.jpg front.jpg

 

http://i150.photobuc...tion/engine.jpg engine.jpg

 

 

So I bought the Haynes tech manual thinking im smart and can figure this out. Wow, my head exploded, so with all my reading and research Im plugging along but still need some experienced help.

 

I found the alternator yesterday which is a victory in my book.

 

I replaced the battery, and the truck just lurches, will add video to show you what is actually happening.

 

I turned the alternator with my hand last night, and noticed the belt doesnt turn with it, just the pulley.

 

I figured, with the lurching, it might be a starter issue based of my minimal knowledge.

 

I also noticed there have been a few electric issues previously, exposed wire in the engine area, burnt connection of the fuse box

 

http://i150.photobuc...oxconnector.jpg Fuseboxconnector.jpg

 

http://i150.photobuc...ion/Fusebox.jpg Fusebox.jpg

 

I'll post more pictures as i get the area cleaned up around the truck.

 

ANY help you folks would have would be greatly appreciated.

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Pretty much any help would be good. if there's any manual out there written for non-car dummies, I'm in. What i really wish i could see is like, a picture of the 620 engine with labels on it. so i know what I'm looking at.

 

I've identified the alternator, and a couple other things... but there's a few things that look like what the starter should be... Just so you cats know what kind of dude you're dealing with.

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export_07.jpg

 

Ok the green arrow points to the starter location, it down low, positive battery cable runs to it.

the yellow arrow is your air conditioner compressor,

purple is your distrubutor,

red is part of the air pump system for your emission control.

not sure if that helps,

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Fuel pump is on frame in front of pass side rear wheel.

 

 

Fuseboxconnector.jpg

 

This is caused by corrosion on the connection between the wire connector and the terminal that holds the fuse. The corrosion increases the resistance and it gets hot. The heat will take the temper out of the metals and they no longer grip tightly adding to the problem. Replace if you can find a 620 fuse box or solder and in-line fuse in place of it.

 

Looks like the Green/Blue stripe wire to the headlights switch.

 

Before you do anything else get a cereal bowl and fill with vinegar and soak your fuse box without the fuses over night. This will clean and remove the tarnish. Replace all fuses.

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Thanks for ALL this help so far. I definitely will be getting a new fusebox... dad had alligator clamps with a wire as a fuse there because of the missing bracket.

 

A friend came over and told me it's most likely a Solenoid problem, So Im in the process of taking off the starter. Had a little trouble with my socket wrench being a little too thick to get into the tight space.

 

Man, the labeled pictures really helped out a ton. thanks.

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Here's a small video of what the truck does when i try to start it.

 

http://s150.photobuc...enginestart.mp4

 

 

You have the truck in gear, that's why it jumps ahead like that. Either push the clutch down and hold it, or place the shifter in the neutral (on gear) position.

 

You were very lucky it didn't start like that or it could have run you over.

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yeah, soooo THAT's how much i know about auto repair and manual transmissions... I overlooked the most obvious thing... apparently you have to keep the clutch pressed down to start it. So there's that. I am thinking that all the truck needed in the first place was a new battery. I will try again tomorrow.

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You can place the shift lever into neutral as well and then you don't have to hold the clutch down.

 

The battery may just need charging. If you can get it started or get a boost from someone the truck will recharge the battery itself.

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That's good to know, thanks. The battery is brand new. I may be just starting it wrong. I work today but have tomorrow to check it out. Thanks for your guys' help. hopefully iI can post some pics soon when i can get it cleaned up and on the road and video of my first stall as i attempt to learn to drive manual transmission...

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Major Victory today. Engine turned over and idled. runs like a champ. The clutch was a little stiff, but the gear shifter finally came loose, and I was able to put it in neutral.

 

I can smell gas, but I don't see anywhere where there is leaks or anything.

 

Things to do now are to get the old sitting int he sun, not going anywhere tires replaced. and fix the electrical aka the fusebox. I've got a plan for that already.

 

I ended up just replacing the starter.. it was only 30 bucks and the other one had some worn down exposed wire coming out of the solenoid.

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Hopefully, soon. Found the paperwork for the truck in My Dad's old files. soldered a new fuse clip into the fusebox. A little jury rigged but it'll do. I've got to take a look at the instrument panel lights. when i turn on the headlights nothing lights up there. Found some old bulbs in the glove box so im guessing it may jsut be a bulb issue, but who knows until i have time to trace wire runs... Theres so much extra stuff that the kid who owned it before my Dad bought it just left in there after he wired it. But i'm excited about it to get it on the road soon.

 

especially with these gas prices I cant afford to drive my brother-in-law's cutlass anyhow.

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This thread makes me happy for a couple reasons... Not only did you decide to keep your fathers truck and get it back on the road, but you're also going about figuring the truck out right. Too many times do new people come around and just want to be spoon fed information instead taking it upon themselves to learn.

 

You might know next to nothing about Datsuns (and even cars in general), but you were smart enough to look for a tech manual to help out. Z-Train hit the nail on the head about Chilton/Haynes books. There's some good info in there, but FSMs are where it's at. What I would recommend doing since you know next to nothing about cars would be to hop on Google or Wikipedia and look up the general basics of how each system and component work. It will help out immensely in your troubleshooting and maintenance.

 

Welcome to Ratsun, welcome to Datsuns, and welcome to cars. Good luck.

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Thanks for everything. Yeah I was surprised about how many youtube videos there are for car maintenance stuff. and just using different tools Dad didn't get a chance to show me... like the soldering iron.

 

It's also the reason It's slow going... Lots of research before I look and see where the new lesson applies to my truck, so so going, but I think I'm doing ok. It was dead a couple weeks ago after not starting for 4 years. I at least got the engine turned over.

 

I see what you mean about the dash board too, its cracked beyond belief. the kid who had it last at least has a dash cover over it.

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I bought a clip to sodler into place. most likely doing that part tomorrow. Luckily have a few days off this weekend to really take a look at the little things I still need to do before i can put it on the road and start stalling at every stop sign

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Heres some more pictures. I was wondering, i have noticed not a lot of people have the same big boxy looking thing in their engine bay as me. Its just left of the engine block if you're looking at it. I know someone had said something about it being part of an A/C system.

DSC09372.jpg

 

DSC09371.jpg

 

Here's a picture of the dash. I removed a plate that had a little "D" logo. Is this where the tach SHOULD go? I need to get one I think.

DSC09360.jpg

 

a straigh on look of the dash gauges and stuff

DSC07100.jpg

 

OK< what follows are a bunch of pictures where i found wires or cables that lead to nothing. any ideas?

 

DSC07109.jpg

 

DSC07108.jpg

 

DSC07105.jpg

 

DSC07104.jpg

 

and finally, I noticed this part has color coded hoses coming off of it, but the last one is capped off. Is it supposed to be like that? I was curious, because the color coded sticker on it, says it goes to the carburetor

 

DSC07107.jpg

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DSC07109.jpg

 

This is a diagnostic plug. Back in the day a Nissan tech could connect into this and it would connect him to the coil, choke heater, BCDD and a few other things in order to trouble shoot problems..

 

 

DSC07107.jpg

 

This is the charcoal canister. It collects gas fumes from the tank vent and stores them. When the motor starts, vacuum sucks the fumes into the carb and burns them. Later models had a vent hose from the carb to collect fumes when the hot motor was shut off. If you look that hose is marked CARB. It's blocked because your truck does not have this vent but the California truck for that year probably did.

 

 

DSC07108.jpg

 

This looks like the front driver's fender side marker lamp plug.

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