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New and Confussed - L16/L18 motor mounts


mantas

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I've got a set of 1980 L20B mounts (not the insulators, just the steel mount that bolts to the engine). I don't know if they are the same ones you need for your 620. They look the same as the ones in the picture that datsunaholic posted. Maybe someone on here can verify if they will work or not. If you think you can use them, I can ship them to you for $15. P.M. me if your interested.

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That's not a dogleg transmission in there. That's a stock L16 4-speed. Doglegs have nearly totally smooth outer castings.

 

I think i jumped the gun and assumed that a 5spd = dogleg. Guy said it was 5spd so I thought only dogleg trans were 5spd haha. Now i'm not even sure if its a 5spd,,,,,,,is it? Either way i'll have 2 transmissions once that guy with the engine comes through, seems like he has been held up at work so he has not been able to remove the engine yet. Do you also know if i need the insulators or the metal mounts for the l18 to fit.

Better yet, yello620 listed a set of 620 mounts and insulators for sale: http://community.rat...-home/��contact him to see if he still has them.

 

Good find, thank you. I sent him a pm about the mounts and the turn signals which i desperately need since i removed that front bumper diffuser or whatever the hell its called.

 

Anyone know if that lower bumper lip/diffuser/guard (whatever the hell) is worth any money?

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Yes you will need the rubber insulators. That's what takes all the vibrations from your engine... You can use any bushings that fit, though that would take a bit of trial and error. Your better off getting OE pieces.

 

Well i'm getting a set of them tomorrow from "ebay" and have my doubts about them being the right ones. I'll post pics so someone can shed some light.

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The better answer is: You need both the metal mounts and the rubber insulators to work in-conjunction with each other. The metal mounts bolt to the engine, the insulators bolt between the metal mounts and the truck frame. Your "bumper thingy" is called an air dam. It may be worth some money to someone who wants one. I personally liked the look of it on your truck.

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The better answer is: You need both the metal mounts and the rubber insulators to work in-conjunction with each other. The metal mounts bolt to the engine, the insulators bolt between the metal mounts and the truck frame. Your "bumper thingy" is called an air dam. It may be worth some money to someone who wants one. I personally liked the look of it on your truck.

 

Are these the right brackets? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-620-Motor-Mount-Brackets-Left-Right-NOS-/220652789583?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335fee5f4f&vxp=mtr

 

And i'm not really a fan of the air dam, and thanks for clarifying what that was.

Solution:

 

510-hockeypuck.jpg

 

:lol: I thought of this as the last resort, but i really don't like the idea for 2 reasons - the car will feel like a giant vibrator and i don't like reinventing the wheel when it has already been invented.

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Another damn update. All is going smooth as far as part hunting is concerned. I have an oil pan for the 620 truck coming in by Friday, I have the mounts, the metal brackets coming in. Also got an accelerator cable but the thing will take 14-20 business days to get here - GREAT!!! My only hold up is the L18 engine - the guy was supposed to get the thing delivered by now but each day something comes up.

 

Can anyone tell me what that L18 would produce power wise? I don't want to have some 200HP+ engine in this truck, i just want it to be able to climb up a hill and get up to 70mph on the highway, but im also hoping that i'm not the guy being honked at for slowing everyone down at the green light. The L18 has an L16 head, and webber 32/36 carbs, am I still looking at 100hp at the crank? Or should this thing have a few extra ponies?

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You weren't looking at 100HP at the crank with the L16. With the L16 head, if it's a "210" head even less since it'll strangle it. Realistically the stock L16 made mid 90s with NO accessories- like no alternator! so at the crank as installed the L16 was probably high 70s, low 80s. The L18 is good for maybe 5-7HP more, and L20B another 5-10 more, but even then it's under 100. To get over 100 you'd need head and cam work, plus a matched carb setup. $100 a horse isn't out of the question as far as work goes.

 

Finding out what head you are actually getting would help. If it's an A87 or W53 head, which were used on BOTH L16s and L18s, then the L18 will be pretty much stock. If it's a 210 head, that ups the compression but has the smallest valves and ports of any L-series head. So, low end torque will be a bit better but get up into the power band it'll fall off rapidly WELL before the rated 5600 peak.

 

Will it hit 70 on the freeway? Well, the stock L16 and 4-speed would hit 70 on the freeway. I've done it. My Dad used to drive my folk's bone-stock '73 620 to Lancaster (Edwards AFB actually). I climbed Snoqualmie Pass at 70 with it when the speed limits came back up in the 90s.

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You weren't looking at 100HP at the crank with the L16. With the L16 head, if it's a "210" head even less since it'll strangle it. Realistically the stock L16 made mid 90s with NO accessories- like no alternator! so at the crank as installed the L16 was probably high 70s, low 80s. The L18 is good for maybe 5-7HP more, and L20B another 5-10 more, but even then it's under 100. To get over 100 you'd need head and cam work, plus a matched carb setup. $100 a horse isn't out of the question as far as work goes.

 

Finding out what head you are actually getting would help. If it's an A87 or W53 head, which were used on BOTH L16s and L18s, then the L18 will be pretty much stock. If it's a 210 head, that ups the compression but has the smallest valves and ports of any L-series head. So, low end torque will be a bit better but get up into the power band it'll fall off rapidly WELL before the rated 5600 peak.

 

Will it hit 70 on the freeway? Well, the stock L16 and 4-speed would hit 70 on the freeway. I've done it. My Dad used to drive my folk's bone-stock '73 620 to Lancaster (Edwards AFB actually). I climbed Snoqualmie Pass at 70 with it when the speed limits came back up in the 90s.

 

Another very educational post from you sir, thanks again. It seems quite hard to find certain info on google. I haven't tried searching this forum because someone mentioned in another thread that the feature is absolute crap and the best way to go about it is to - google what you are looking for and include the word ratsun. Also i found a place that has many datsun truck parts and they do shipping for certain items - its some kind of a wrecking yard for trucks in so cal. I'm not sure if i should post their number here or in some other thread, but i'm sure the guy there would not mind some extra business. Any ideas on this?

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I have issues with the site search, but if you click the button that says site inside the search bar, you can change it to Google. Then you're only searching this site and that's what I use.

 

I can do 70 or so in my shitty L16 with automatic 3psd (engine has a 210 head) so its possible. I stopped for gas during a cruise and I needed to catch back up. The car made a bit of noise, but she performed great.

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Looking forward to driving as slow as an old woman - on the other hand i already drive like that so why would it matter if the truck is slow. While looking at that empty engine bay i noticed I have a leak in between the booster and master cylinder. Is there a seal in between those two? Like a rubber grommet? I don't want to put this engine in and go for a test drive without brakes haha.

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If there's a leak between the booster and master cyl, the master cyl is leaking. It has a boot, but that's to keep dust out of the inside of the master. If fluid is coming out, the master is no good. Rebuild or replace (I never rebuild, not worth it, though I've kept all my dead ones just in case)

 

Found some replacements already for a decent price, i guess i'll order one and wait. Now here is my other issue. I got the oil pan today.....Was excited as hell, but at the bottom it has "521 Oil Pan" written on there by the shop that sold it to me. When I asked the guy i told him, i need a 620 datsun truck oil pan and he said thats what he has and would ship it over. Could it be that the 521 pan will fit with some minor hammer work? I know for a fact it will not clear but it look like if i bang the front of it, the guy might slide in...

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Found some replacements already for a decent price, i guess i'll order one and wait. Now here is my other issue. I got the oil pan today.....Was excited as hell, but at the bottom it has "521 Oil Pan" written on there by the shop that sold it to me. When I asked the guy i told him, i need a 620 datsun truck oil pan and he said thats what he has and would ship it over. Could it be that the 521 pan will fit with some minor hammer work? I know for a fact it will not clear but it look like if i bang the front of it, the guy might slide in...

 

I guess I have no choice, i'll just have to bash it in, or weld my own pan. Assuming I get my hands on some decent welding gear.

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Why would you throw some away? :confused: I would pay money for one, I just can't find any for sale. I also want to wait it out and do things the right way but my 240sx which is my daily driver for now.......burning oil out the tailpipe, so i might have to tear that thing down in the near future. Its amazing how some things just happen at the wrong time for you, haha. Bad luck wouldn't be called that i guess if it was not inconvenient. If any of you come accross a 620 pan, please shoot me a PM or post in here. That is pretty much the only part missing from the equation at this point.

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