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Didn't block timing chain...


choke artist

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Holy shit balls, some asshole had to just put his opinion here and dredge up this derelict thread?! :D Oh wait, that's me! For the record, I've never heard about cutting the tensioner spring, never had any issues with it, and always just jam a screwdriver backwards down the timing cover to wedge the chain. Never had any chains jump, and just have a small screwdriver end sticking up doesn't interfere with removing the cam sprocket.

 

screwdriverjam.jpg

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You're kidding right? You must be, because if you're serious, you must be delusional.

 

You're the one who thinks he knows more than the factory engineers but I'M the one that's delusional?THat's down right hysterical.L motors have gone BILLIONS of miles WITHOUT this mod your championing.It is NOT needed and serves no purpose.

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The whole point of having that big spring in the tensioner is for chain stretch. No racer in their right mind would be running a timing chain with 155,000 miles worth of stretch in it, 155,000 miles of wear on the guides, with an engine so loose it has 7PSI oil pressure at idle. Put that cut spring in a well used engine, it's gonna jump the chain on startup when the engine has zero oil pressure, especially if it backfires. Sure, on a perfectly tuned engine this isn't a problem. But not every engine is perfectly tuned.

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You're the one who thinks he knows more than the factory engineers but I'M the one that's delusional?THat's down right hysterical.L motors have gone BILLIONS of miles WITHOUT this mod your championing.It is NOT needed and serves no purpose.

 

Z-train, stock is not always best. If you're not comfortable tweaking on stock components to make them lighter, faster, more powerful...or easier to work on, that's ok. I on the other hand love to push the envelope. Stock is never adequate for me.

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1)Z-train, stock is not always best.2) If you're not comfortable tweaking on stock components to make them lighter, faster, more powerful...or easier to work on, that's ok. 3)I on the other hand love to push the envelope. 4)Stock is never adequate for me.

1)In VERY few instances,you are correct.

2)see below:

ZMOTOR.jpg

DSC00735.jpg

LZ-23 stroker

nahh,i'm not comfortable with aftermarket stuff.

 

3)Pushing the envelope is great,but in this instance it's point-less as it serves no purpose in the related application

4)You've got a lot of dis-appointment in store for you.

 

And to the genius' who think this is a pissing contest-it's not.THe modification being supported by Stoffregen Motorsports has its place but that place is in less that 5% of the cars owned on this board.Block the chain and go about the project.If you are carefull about blocking the chain,this mod is totally un-needed.

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Also, no one would know about the spring mod until they've already screwed up and left the chain unblocked. Once you've done that, you've learned the lesson. And there's no guarantee that with the shorter spring the tensioner won't pop out anyway. You still need to block the chain so it doesn't slip down and fold up in the pan.

 

Me, I actually went and bought the official Nissan chain tool. I've used it twice. I tried the wooden wedge thing back in 1992 and only managed to 1) get wood chips in the oil pan and 2) the tensioner popped out anyway. Learning experience- as in, I'm not a carpenter.

'

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1)In VERY few instances,you are correct.

2)see below:

ZMOTOR.jpg

DSC00735.jpg

LZ-23 stroker

nahh,i'm not comfortable with aftermarket stuff.

 

3)Pushing the envelope is great,but in this instance it's point-less as it serves no purpose in the related application

4)You've got a lot of dis-appointment in store for you.

 

And to the genius' who think this is a pissing contest-it's not.THe modification being supported by Stoffregen Motorsports has its place but that place is in less that 5% of the cars owned on this board.Block the chain and go about the project.If you are carefull about blocking the chain,this mod is totally un-needed.

 

I guess since you disagree with my practice, then you must be right.

 

I acquiesce, you guys are right. I'll do everything by the book from now on.

 

You try to help someone and you get pissed on...

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I know this doesn't help the current situation, but you can cut the tensioner spring in half so it doesn't push the plunger out. Oil pressure is what tensions the chain, not spring pressure.

 

Just thought I'd share a trick.

 

Ha!!

I didn't know it's oil pressure is what keeping tension on the chain.

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I'm skeptical. It's POSSIBLE that adding idler sprockets could save power, but you're replacing one parasitic loss for another. You lose energy in friction from the stock guides and tensioner, true. But with twin idler sprockets, you're adding 2 new rotating assemblies, which take power to rotate, and they themselves will have frictional losses at their bearings. I'd have to see unbiased, independent dyno readings. That being said, there are other advantages outside of frictional loss reduction that the setup has (for race applications), though it's not worth it nor practical for a street engine.

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going back to the original discussion... Honsowetz describes a mod of the L-motor chain tensioner foot - by adding a longer steel sleeve to the existing piston, to prevent it being forced out of the tensioner housing. This is especially useful if head/block have been shaved, to keep tension on the timing chain. The bore of the chain tensioner housing has to be honed out to take the new sleeve

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going back to the original discussion... Honsowetz describes a mod of the L-motor chain tensioner foot - by adding a longer steel sleeve to the existing piston, to prevent it being forced out of the tensioner housing. This is especially useful if head/block have been shaved, to keep tension on the timing chain. The bore of the chain tensioner housing has to be honed out to take the new sleeve

 

Sounds like a much better idea than cutting springs

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Whether you cut the spring or not, the curved giude geometry has to be set up properly, and sometimes this requires cutting and welding of the curved guide. When this geometry is set up correctly, the plunger protrudes no more than the thickness of 2 of the rubber washers behind the plunger. The argument of cutting springs on a motor with 150k miles is totally moot anyways, because if you've got the timing cover off, you're going to check all the guides and geometry too. If you just cut the spring, you're missing the point.

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