Logical1 Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I just did a complete clutch job on my dime and was pondering how PL510s don't have clutch return spring like some other makes do. I want to make this clutch last so I went about fabbing one up to test how it could be done, if it would work, & if it would help! I figured my best bet was something I could bolt over my slave cylinder so I cut a piece of 1/16" x 1" x 5" steel and bent it into a square wave shape, drilled holes for the slave mounting bolts & mounted a spring. I was thinking I could drill a tiny hole at the end of the clutch fork to connect the spring to, what a joke that was. The steel used in Datsun clutch forks is NUTTY hard. Even with a new carbide bit and a impact drill, it didn't even scratch it! I was somewhat discouraged because there was no way I was going to pull my tranny out to put the fork in my drill press. So after some thought and test fitting I came up with this: How does it work? like this! When I wrapped the spring around I could see the slave cylinder compressing and the fork holding tight against it. Tested it out and I had to adjust my clutch push rod just a bit but other than that, so far, so good. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I just did a complete clutch job on my dime and was pondering how PL510s don't have clutch return spring like some other makes do. Pretty sure the PL510 DOES have a return spring and adjustable push rod on the slave. Yours looks like a FS5W63A dogleg. So not only is it not the PL510 transmission but it's designed to work just fine without spring or adjuster. Have to ask why you're doing this and what you're hoping to gain? Doglegs and 71Bs have been around a long time without return springs and they don't have a recurring problem with the release bearing. I think that hardened clutch arm is going to chafe that spring and wear it away. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Looks like that spring might migrate south? If you install a new rubber boot that seals your clutch fork to the bell housing, keeping out dust...etc It should also help position the throw out bearing away from the clutch fingers That said....some after market clutch assemblies have the throw out bearing in constant contact with the fingers 1 Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Holy overly complicated batman!!!! lol I agree its going to migrate south as well. Dude just drill a small hole in the corner of the arm and a tab under one of the bolts. Add a short spring between and call it a day. Also its more a tension spring then return spring. there is plenty of pressure on most clutch set ups for unaided return. A spring is a simple way of keeping the hole assembly tight. Quote Link to comment
Logical1 Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Mike: I guess I have never seen a truly 'stock' dime then, as the several I have worked on have not had a spring or any place on the fork to attach one. As for what I'm trying to achieve, Like you pointed out its a dogleg bolted to an engine that it didn't come with, with a clutch from a completely different application (roadster P/P) and as these parts may "bolt up" I'm sure there is room for improvement and fine tuning to get them to optimal operating efficiency. Yes doglegs have been around for years and worked without bearing & p/p failures, However when I shined my flashlight into the bell housing I can see the bearing just barely touching the P/P and spinning. With the return spring , it backs off the plate every time. It might only add a few miles of extra life but that was my goal. Sealik: Its hard to tell from the pictures but the way the tabs on the spring clip are angled up from the fork it pulls the spring up closer to the bell housing. Some after market clutches may be designed for constant contact but I don't think the Koyo roadster bearing and P/P were, so I wanted to try and achieve a definite engaged spinning - released no contact. Dude just drill a small hole in the corner of the arm and a tab under one of the bolts. Add a short spring between and call it a day. I was thinking I could drill a tiny hole at the end of the clutch fork to connect the spring to, what a joke that was. The steel used in Datsun clutch forks is NUTTY hard. Even with a new carbide bit and a impact drill, it didn't even scratch it! I was somewhat discouraged because there was no way I was going to pull my tranny out to put the fork in my drill press. Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Ya I can read but after seeing that contraption I felt you needed encouragement to go back and do it right. Why would you be trying to drill a whole in hardened metal with an impact drill? All thats doing it destroying your bits. Hammer drilling is for masonry drilling concrete, stone etc... Many clutch arms are hardened steel, they deal with repeated abuse over long lives. Drilling them though isnt uncommon even with datsuns. I drilled a 1/4 hole in my old 4 speed before I swapped the l28 in a couple months ago. Early z slaves are non adjustable and later are, through a hole in the arm. Put your purse down, take a sharp cobalt 1/8 bit, oil push with steady medium pressure at low rpm and it will go through the arm like butter. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
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