SulphurDave Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 To reiterate what's been said fuck that's a clean truck..... Most members here would shit pine cones to have a nice piece like that lol!! Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 To reiterate what's been said fuck that's a clean truck..... Most members here would shit pine cones to have a nice piece like that True story. Clean out the old gas that's in the tank and slap a new battery on it. See what happens! Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 True story. Clean out the old gas that's in the tank and slap a new battery on it. See what happens! no dont do that sell it to me .......for 500 i will come get it....and poop a pine cone or two to prove it... Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Pulled all the fuel lines coming out from the fender to the filter to the pump to the carb, gonna replace fuel filter and all fuel lines under the hood. Pulled the carb, looks like it could be cleaned or whatever but also looks complicated and full of cuss words when trying to put it back together so I'm tempted to go new Weber 32/36... very tempted but then again cleaning the one I have now is almost free. Decisions.... Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 32/36 is a very good upgrade. very very good. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 but also looks complicated and full of cuss words when trying to put it back together so I'm tempted to go new Weber 32/36... very tempted but then again cleaning the one I have now is almost free. Decisions.... Exactly!!!!!!!!!! You need the crabk case vent tube hose to the lower intake PCV valve 11828-23002 What you got will be good for now but best to get this to keep the stink to a minimum. Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Briefly explain what all is involved in taking the carb apart to clean besides the obvious. What should I expect? Tips? Pointers? How far to tear into it? Things to watch out for? What all is included in a good kit? Jets, gaskets... ? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Go to this page. http://www.davidcmur...dat/620tech.htm About part way down, there is a link for a PDF version of the Datsun 521 Factory Body and Chassis Service Manual you can down load. Do that. Farther down is a link for the Nissan L16 & L18 Series Engines you can download. Do that too. In all honesty, the carburetor on a Datsun 521 is a very sophisticated, complicated carburetor. It is a primary-secondary type of carb, and even though it makes almost any four barrel carb used on American engines look simple. That is why most people just put on a Weber carb, and call it good. Another issue with any old carb is wear in the throttle shafts, where they go through the throttle body. You have the carb off. Check for wear there. The best carb kits come from Nissan, but they are expensive. Probably more expensive that a new Weber carb. Be very careful when you take the carb apart. It is really easy to lose small parts. First, I would try to do a quick clean of the float bowl, watch for deposits neat the main jets, clean the throat of the carb, and then put it on , and try it again. Do not do major invasive surgery unless you really have to. Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Good stuff. Thanks Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 First purchases towards the truck since I brought it home were made today. I bought new spark plugs, oil/oil filter, new fuel lines inside engine bay, new fuel filter and a gallon of Berrymans chem-dip to soak the carb in. Now honestly I don't wanna dig too deep into this carb I just wanna take off what's absolutely necessary to soak this thing overnight, put it back together and see if it runs better. I have a feeling the accelerator pump is bad because I'm getting gas to the float bowl but nothing is squirting from the jets. I can pour gas into the carb from the top and it starts right up and runs pretty decent until it burns the gas then it runs horrible until it dies. If this is the case not sure what I would do from there, replace accelerator pump or bite the bullet and go Weber 32/36. Trying not to spend too much initially in case I need to sell it to get a newer truck for a new job possibly. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 The Berryman's cleaner will require complete dissassembly, because it will eat gaskets, O rings, accelerator pump cups, pretty much anything that is not metal. The most important part of the carb to work correctly is the float level. There is a line on the sight glass on the front of the carb, that is where the fuel level should be. But even before that you need to get good gasoline to the carb. This is what I did to solve that problem. I used this old, but clean inside, gas tank from a lawnmower. To get the gas from the tank to the carb, I was able to just hold the lawn mower tank in the air, above the carburetor, and fuel pump. This is the the thread for the project truck I have. http://community.rat...sun-datsun-521/ Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 The gas was exactly at the line on the sight glass. The fuel pump is working fine too. It's getting gas to the float line just not getting down the throat. Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 So since the hole for the radio is so hacked up and the dash is missing knobs and functional accurate gauges and ugly as sin.... I was thinking of doing something similar to what I did in my GMC, cover the factory panel with brushed aluminum and cut holes for AutoMeter gauges going horizontally across the dash panel with custom lighted rocker switches for headlights, wipers, etc etc. I mean, I wouldn't go "all out" with the fiberglassed dash pad like I did to my GMC but more function over fashion. The GMC is mainly for show and muscle. I even made a custom aluminum panel that replaced the a/c switches instead for fuel pump, fans and to arm nitrous bottle. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 show me more of this gmc please.....i have low rider envy Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 Not a lowrider more of a street rod. How about a video? Click the picture. Quote Link to comment
gene knight Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 pm sent Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 i like it, now put 22 x 14 and under it and drop it on the ground..lol...my dad had a prostreet 89 standard cab on 15x15 welds... cool as hell till u drove it on the highway....15" wide tires in ruts is a hand full....I like the paint scheme.....who painted it ... sounds super healthy ....stroker or a big block... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 " I have a feeling the accelerator pump is bad because I'm getting gas to the float bowl but nothing is squirting from the jets. I can pour gas into the carb from the top and it starts right up and runs pretty decent until it burns the gas then it runs horrible until it dies." You never di the test I told you about?????? plug the main side with your hand after you get the rpms up and open the second barrel wiht a SCREW DRIVER AND THE MOTOR SHOULD STAY RUNNING. if it stayed running Ok to late now. but this would have isolated it down to the primary side being bad. 1) idle jet plugged 2) main jet plugged Personally Im scared to rip apart a stock carb. I think they are RUBIX CUBE in desguise dont worry about the gauges untill everything is running nice and stock Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 i have a few if u want them .... also included is a torn apart rubix cube and a rebuild kit....i used a weber Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 sounds super healthy ....stroker or a big block... 383 stroker Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 " I have a feeling the accelerator pump is bad because I'm getting gas to the float bowl but nothing is squirting from the jets. I can pour gas into the carb from the top and it starts right up and runs pretty decent until it burns the gas then it runs horrible until it dies." You never di the test I told you about?????? plug the main side with your hand after you get the rpms up and open the second barrel wiht a SCREW DRIVER AND THE MOTOR SHOULD STAY RUNNING. if it stayed running Ok to late now. but this would have isolated it down to the primary side being bad. 1) idle jet plugged 2) main jet plugged Personally Im scared to rip apart a stock carb. I think they are RUBIX CUBE in desguise dont worry about the gauges untill everything is running nice and stock No I did not, couldn't get it running good enough to do that. I will do what I can to the carb this weekend and report back Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 Curious... a little late to ask since I bought the truck already but how well (given that it's running right) would this truck pull a 14' aluminum boat and trailer with fishing gear out of the water at a boat launch? I know it'll pull it just driving around town. I'm more concerned about pulling it out of a steep boat launch. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 I'm more concerned about pulling it out of a steep boat launch. Its more how much traction will one wheel hold on a wet contrete with algae growing on it? 14 aluminun is kinda light unless a huge motor also. But Im not a fan of datsuns towing stuff around. I cut soem small trees and only half full it just felt weird. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 It is not too late to ask. I used to tow my 16 foot Tahiti with a 135 Merc in line six all over the place. I even used my 521 to pull the bot one summer when I was working a travelling summer camp that went from Portland Oregon, to Lake Billy Chinook in Central Oregon, then to Lake Shasta, Northern California, to Bass Lake, somewhere around Fresno, California. And then did the return trip. never had a problem pulling my boat out of the lakes, or rivers, except when the water was really low, and there was mud or wet sand on the boat ramp. I also used to tow a two horse trailer all over the northwest, quite often with two horses. To be honest, it seems traffic is a little more intense that it was when I was towing stuff with the Datsun, I strongly recommend you have trailer brakes. A Datsun 521 does not use the brake lights for turn signals on the rear. To hook up the lights on the trailer, you will need a trailer light multiplexor, or put additional separate brake lights on the trailer. Quote Link to comment
SulphurDave Posted September 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 Does anyone know if these side mirrors would fit the 521? I love the paw paw look on these old trucks. Quote Link to comment
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