Stoney Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 I went through the same process with my RB26, had a 450rwkw at 25psi setup running great until a supertech valve snapped and lunched the motor, so I got hold of a stock rebuilt RB26 with ARP studs, balanced internals and new oil pump and bearings etc, that had been used for a short period before the guy went with a stroker motor. That motor just never ran right, even at 300rwkws at 21psi, it was just "off", leakdown confirmed it, oil pressure wasnt as high as my old motor either, so I stripped it to rebuild with some better internals, as 300rwkws feels crap after having 450rwkws, and I find things like metal swarf in the sump, scoring of the bores, ring gaps all over the place, bearing tolerances were everywhere as well. So after that, I built the new motor myself, still going strong at 400rwks at 22psi, but at least if you do it yourself, you know exactly what clearances are used, what the ring gap is, how clean the bores are after machining/honing, torque specs used, whether the block was torque plate honed or not, how accurately you balanced the internals and so on. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Uhhhh... What?!!!? Who does that? 2 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted October 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 All I can do is shake my head. Me too I went through the same process with my RB26, had a 450rwkw at 25psi setup running great until a supertech valve snapped and lunched the motor, so I got hold of a stock rebuilt RB26 with ARP studs, balanced internals and new oil pump and bearings etc, that had been used for a short period before the guy went with a stroker motor. That motor just never ran right, even at 300rwkws at 21psi, it was just "off", leakdown confirmed it, oil pressure wasnt as high as my old motor either, so I stripped it to rebuild with some better internals, as 300rwkws feels crap after having 450rwkws, and I find things like metal swarf in the sump, scoring of the bores, ring gaps all over the place, bearing tolerances were everywhere as well. So after that, I built the new motor myself, still going strong at 400rwks at 22psi, but at least if you do it yourself, you know exactly what clearances are used, what the ring gap is, how clean the bores are after machining/honing, torque specs used, whether the block was torque plate honed or not, how accurately you balanced the internals and so on. I figure after this if I have more problems it will be either improperly set or gapped rings or maybe valve issues. I plan on moving forward and running it but it may have to come out for a full rebuild over the winter. I'm really hoping to not have to do that though! I much prefer driving to wrenching... Uhhhh... What?!!!? Who does that? Limitless Motorsports in San Bruno, CA. Stay far far away. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Limitless hack job....wow wow wow! 1 Quote Link to comment
DAWOLF Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Hey dude whats up, I see you are getting back on your feet by fixing your sr20det engine, that's great man don't let problems slow you down, there's always a solution to problems in life except dead, you are great motivation man watching your videos how you destroy most cars in the track, badass dude. Also I have good news, I finally found the heavenly holy infiniti M30 its a 1990 took me awhile to find 1 but this m30 I found its like 3 hours drive ouch.. :( , I was close to give up finding 1. Good luck with the engine man, building my goon it's a challenge for me now, I can tell you that much but I'll see the light at the end of the tunnel. 2 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Got it started! Warmed it up then went straight to rag10's to check the timing. We followed the procedure but had a heck of a time with it. I took it around the block and there is something going on that has happened before. I think the fuel pump is dying or there is a bad connection, maybe related to the ignition switch. Fun. Gas stop on the way to the beer store: Got home and was unpleasantly surprised to find some oil mysteriously spattered on the passenger side inner fender. More fun! I am perplexed as to where it came from... To be continued. 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Sounds good. You will fix it easy peasy it's japanesey 1 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 There are a lot of things L16's don't do. :rofl: 1 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Hahaha ha There are a lot of things L16's don't do. :rofl: Touché 1 Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Get a consult and wire in the plug then down load a free program for it. Makes setting tps and timing so much easier 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 There are a lot of things L16's don't do. :rofl: Indeed. ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 Progress has been made. I attempted to make the Datlife BBQ this past weekend but had to turn around because the car was running like shit. Before heading down I met rag10 and a few others at his shop. We found the oil spatter was from a torn silicone coupler on the I/C cold pipe. Stopped at Pepboys and got a new one but didn't install it. I turned around and went home shortly after that. The car was bucking while cruising and dying at stops. I had also ordered a new ignition switch from Amazon that morning. Yesterday I got the ign switch installed and damn! wish I would have done that 5 years ago. Big difference, it had been getting really hard to start and the switch was super worn. Now it's tight and I don't have to be so touchy with the key. When I removed the old I/C coupler I found quite a bit of oil from my last engine's blow-by inside the I/C so I washed that bish out with a quart of acetone then a bunch of soap and water and let it dry overnight. Today I got it all put back together and took it out. It runs pretty good! My timing is off on the retarded side I think and it runs rich but it smokes tires again and cruises fine. Oh yeah! I found some time over the last couple months to finally paint the underside of my hood. It had been quite an eyesore! 6 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Awesome! 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Victory !! 1 Quote Link to comment
DatMo Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Looks great man keep it up 1 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted November 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2016 I've got about 100 miles on it and starting to feel good about things. I ended up re-stabbing the CAS after double checking the mechanical cam timing and now the timing sits right at 15* BTDC with the CAS in the middle of its range. :thumbup: I also cleaned the ECU's temp sensor connector. The idle is solid at 850 rpm, the temp is stable at 195* and no more weird cruising issues. That may change tomorrow but for now I am happy. Still running kind of rich but I'm not too worried about that for now. No leaks! Bay: My last engine did a hair over 40,000 miles in this 510, I hope to get much more out of this one. I guess I should keep the boost down until I can get the fuel system upgraded and get a real tune... 4 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 2, 2016 Report Share Posted November 2, 2016 That would be advisable :) 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 2, 2016 Report Share Posted November 2, 2016 I guess I should keep the boost down until I can get the fuel system upgraded and get a real tune... Pussy. ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted November 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2016 Yeah I am sure I will turn it up a bit, 5 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Been driving, it's hard to stay out of the upper reaches of the tacho. I'm a little over halfway through the prescribed 500 mile break in. No more hiccups yet! Also at the urging of a friend I retrieved my defroster grills from the shed and got them installed for the first time since I took the car apart in 2007. No installed oics but I promise they are in there and make for a much more finished look. Never mind the cracked dash pad and windshield... 4 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 dope!!! where's the invite to those sweet pic locations? lol 1 Quote Link to comment
510T Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 I'm not sure your car could make it out there without losing the oil pan! :rofl: Marshall Petaluma Road, it is pretty but sooo bumpy. Like all our rural roads out here. :( Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Been driving, it's hard to stay out of the upper reaches of the tacho... Boost is funny that way... ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
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