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Sh!ts and Giggles 510


510T

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I went through the same process with my RB26, had a 450rwkw at 25psi setup running great until a supertech valve snapped and lunched the motor, so I got hold of a stock rebuilt RB26 with ARP studs, balanced internals and new oil pump and bearings etc, that had been used for a short period before the guy went with a stroker motor.

 

That motor just never ran right, even at 300rwkws at 21psi, it was just "off", leakdown confirmed it, oil pressure wasnt as high as my old motor either, so I stripped it to rebuild with some better internals, as 300rwkws feels crap after having 450rwkws, and I find things like metal swarf in the sump, scoring of the bores, ring gaps all over the place, bearing tolerances were everywhere as well.

 

So after that, I built the new motor myself, still going strong at 400rwks at 22psi, but at least if you do it yourself, you know exactly what clearances are used, what the ring gap is, how clean the bores are after machining/honing, torque specs used, whether the block was torque plate honed or not, how accurately you balanced the internals and so on.

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All I can do is shake my head.

 

Me too

 

I went through the same process with my RB26, had a 450rwkw at 25psi setup running great until a supertech valve snapped and lunched the motor, so I got hold of a stock rebuilt RB26 with ARP studs, balanced internals and new oil pump and bearings etc, that had been used for a short period before the guy went with a stroker motor.

 

That motor just never ran right, even at 300rwkws at 21psi, it was just "off", leakdown confirmed it, oil pressure wasnt as high as my old motor either, so I stripped it to rebuild with some better internals, as 300rwkws feels crap after having 450rwkws, and I find things like metal swarf in the sump, scoring of the bores, ring gaps all over the place, bearing tolerances were everywhere as well.

 

So after that, I built the new motor myself, still going strong at 400rwks at 22psi, but at least if you do it yourself, you know exactly what clearances are used, what the ring gap is, how clean the bores are after machining/honing, torque specs used, whether the block was torque plate honed or not, how accurately you balanced the internals and so on.

 

I figure after this if I have more problems it will be either improperly set or gapped rings or maybe valve issues.  I plan on moving forward and running it but it may have to come out for a full rebuild over the winter.  I'm really hoping to not have to do that though!  I much prefer driving to wrenching...

 

Uhhhh... What?!!!?  

 

Who does that?

 

Dwight-Schrute-Shakes-Head-and-Rolls-Eye

 

Limitless Motorsports in San Bruno, CA.  Stay far far away.

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Hey dude whats up, I see you are getting back on your feet by fixing your sr20det engine, that's great man don't let problems slow you down, there's always a solution to problems in life except dead, you are great motivation man watching your videos how you destroy most cars in the track, badass dude.

 

Also I have good news, I finally found the heavenly holy infiniti M30 its a 1990 took me awhile to find 1 but this m30 I found its like 3 hours drive ouch.. :( , I was close to give up finding 1. Good luck with the engine man, building my goon it's a challenge for me now, I can tell you that much but I'll see the light at the end of the tunnel.

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Got it started!

 

 

Warmed it up then went straight to rag10's to check the timing.  We followed the procedure but had a heck of a time with it.  I took it around the block and there is something going on that has happened before.  I think the fuel pump is dying or there is a bad connection, maybe related to the ignition switch.  Fun.

 

0BC37080-8E8B-466C-80F1-98910A9BC15C_zps

 

Gas stop on the way to the beer store:

 

90A25201-6007-4BE6-B072-7F4ACE1B965D_zps

 

Got home and was unpleasantly surprised to find some oil mysteriously spattered on the passenger side inner fender.  More fun!

 

92AA0113-22D6-4F50-B965-89475663B7B4_zps

 

I am perplexed as to where it came from...  To be continued.

 

 

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Progress has been made.  I attempted to make the Datlife BBQ this past weekend but had to turn around because the car was running like shit.  Before heading down I met rag10 and a few others at his shop.  We found the oil spatter was from a torn silicone coupler on the I/C cold pipe.  Stopped at Pepboys and got a new one but didn't install it.  I turned around and went home shortly after that.  The car was bucking while cruising and dying at stops.  I had also ordered a new ignition switch from Amazon that morning.

 

Yesterday I got the ign switch installed and damn! wish I would have done that 5 years ago.  Big difference, it had been getting really hard to start and the switch was super worn.  Now it's tight and I don't have to be so touchy with the key.  When I removed the old I/C coupler I found quite a bit of oil from my last engine's blow-by inside the I/C so I washed that bish out with a quart of acetone then a bunch of soap and water and let it dry overnight.  Today I got it all put back together and took it out.  It runs pretty good!  My timing is off on the retarded side I think and it runs rich but it smokes tires again and cruises fine.

 

Oh yeah!  I found some time over the last couple months to finally paint the underside of my hood.  It had been quite an eyesore!

 

285D1ECB-6DC9-457D-AAA7-5A23F8EC82FC_zps

 

80D167B6-DC48-4725-940C-C9BFF046751A_zps

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I've got about 100 miles on it and starting to feel good about things.  I ended up re-stabbing the CAS after double checking the mechanical cam timing and now the timing sits right at 15* BTDC with the CAS in the middle of its range.  :thumbup:   I also cleaned the ECU's temp sensor connector.  The idle is solid at 850 rpm, the temp is stable at 195* and no more weird cruising issues.  That may change tomorrow but for now I am happy.  Still running kind of rich but I'm not too worried about that for now.

 

No leaks!

 

DDF72A48-81D6-4CD0-B8D7-465988760E14_zps

 

Bay:

 

64255656-4FF3-450E-961C-2629E3F35A83_zps

 

My last engine did a hair over 40,000 miles in this 510, I hope to get much more out of this one.  I guess I should keep the boost down until I can get the fuel system upgraded and get a real tune...

 

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I guess I should keep the boost down until I can get the fuel system upgraded and get a real tune...

 

Pussy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

^_^

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Been driving, it's hard to stay out of the upper reaches of the tacho.  I'm a little over halfway through the prescribed 500 mile break in.  No more hiccups yet!  

 

8140CF88-FFAF-404D-9519-D6B651A13A54_zps

44DB4AF7-3ADE-45F1-9B26-F521DFDD3920_zps

 

Also at the urging of a friend I retrieved my defroster grills from the shed and got them installed for the first time since I took the car apart in 2007.  No installed oics but I promise they are in there and make for a much more finished look.  Never mind the cracked dash pad and windshield...

 

C2E75426-C891-448D-BA9E-758652A73656_zps

 

 

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I'm not sure your car could make it out there without losing the oil pan!   :rofl: Marshall Petaluma Road, it is pretty but sooo bumpy.  Like all our rural roads out here.  :(

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