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Sh!ts and Giggles 510


510T

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I had the lower pan off but did not take the upper off or check the bottom end really besides verifying that it had Eagle rods.  I still have his info and he knows I am having issues.

 

The crossmember is coming off and I am going to drop the pan in the next couple hours.

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It does have the top guide and the tensioner seemed fine.  How would I tell if it went or was going bad?  I do have a spare from my old engine I could throw on.  I am partway through pulling the upper pan to check the rod and main bolts and bearings.  I have to back the tranny off to get the upper pan to drop.  I did find a few loose bolts on the upper pan so I feel like I should keep going with that.

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What did the oil pressure look like? It a noise like that I would think there would be deviation in PSI if it were a bearing. The needle would probably bounce a bit.

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Did you check with a digital or mechanical pressure gauge? Digital gauges can smooth the oscillations.

 

Not suggesting it's a bearing.. just noting what I've seen with gauges personally.

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Took me about 24 hours, but I got through the whole thread. You're car is great and it was cool watching your videos, you're definitely getting better! Sorry to hear the terrible news, about BOTH SR's.

Thanks for the thread, keep it up!

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Did you check with a digital or mechanical pressure gauge? Digital gauges can smooth the oscillations.

Not suggesting it's a bearing.. just noting what I've seen with gauges personally.

 

Mechanical gauge...

 

Took me about 24 hours, but I got through the whole thread. You're car is great and it was cool watching your videos, you're definitely getting better! Sorry to hear the terrible news, about BOTH SR's.

Thanks for the thread, keep it up!

 

Thanks for the kind words Noflers!  I will never stop, but it can be quite the challenge to stay motivated during the rough times.

 

I do have an update!

 

Rag10 came by and helped me figure out what was going on.  Our conclusion is that the crank was machined .010" but standard size rod bearings were used.  The plan is to drop the crank girdle and plastigauge check the mains then order bearings, hopefully just for the rods.  Crossing my fingers that that will do it and I can get back to burning up tires in a few weeks.

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Checked the mains.  They turned out to be ACL brand and the correct size, plastigauge showed clearance on the tight side of spec.  Now just waiting for rod bearings to get drop shipped from Clevite.

 

I hope it will all work out!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Back at it!  I was away on a vacation but never have been more excited to come home and get back to the Datto.  My rod bearings were waiting!  

 

Always like to see parts made in Japan:

 

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As I R&R'd all the old bearings I came across another example of incompetent assembly.  Pretty sure 8 halves make 4 pairs.  #4 was missing half the bearing:

 

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During all this I decided to remove the ARP main studs and reinstall the stock bolts from my old engine.  I have no faith that the engine builder or PO had the mains line bored/honed with the ARP studs installed and read a lot about them causing crank binding issues without.  I torqued to spec and the assembly seems to turn a bit smoother than it did before.  At this point I am finishing up cleaning the sealing surfaces of the pans and hope to have it back together by the end of the week.  ;)

 

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