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What I'm working with!


uberkevin

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Is there a way of doing it where you won't get your wheels to stick out so much

Not with this mKlotz kit. The tire poke isn't that bad, to me.. but I do understand. You can roll Bee's brackets then I believe the tire poke won't happen..

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But I went with this kit do to the fact that the 521 wheel bearing is N/A not that my truck needed new bearings but yours might. So make sure you think about this before you buy a kit.

Also the poke can be fix with different off set. But I'm sure you know that.

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Not with this mKlotz kit. The tire poke isn't that bad, to me.. but I do understand. You can roll Bee's brackets then I believe the tire poke won't happen..

 

Based on the calculations I did, even with Beebani or Krec's, I was still going to get some poke because I'm trying to stuff 15x8's under the fender without tire stretch. When I asked mklotz to make a new run of Z'd arms, we customed mine to be  1/2" shorter than stock to get around this. I'm using Krec's brackets. If this doesn't work when I finally get it all together, I'll camber the front slightly with the upper control arm to get the top of the wheel under the fender.

 

Ultimately it all depends on equipment used, tire and wheel size and offset of the rims.

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No sir.

 

Parts list. For MKlotz 521 brake swap. Should add master cylinder and prop/valve.

2 hubs from 620-720(made before 10/85), 2 wheel drive

2 rotors for a 1984 720, 2 wheel drive, 4 cylinder

2 calipers for a '87 Hardbody

2 hoses for a '87 Hardbody

2 banjo bolts for a '87 Hardbody

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Which kit you buy has zero relation to the 521 bearing being NLA.

 

Klotz makes a washer which allows the 620 bearing to work in the 521 hub.

That's all that matters.

 

All the kits use the 521 hub. Done deal.

Klotz's kit uses 80 to 86 720 hubs I used 1980 hubs because of the stock wheels I want to run.

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So this thread http://community.ratsun.net/topic/36962-anyone-running-a-1-wilwood-master-cylinder/ is stupid old but it has some info that I found a little helpful bit would like someone else to give me some experience with this or idk haha.

 

I decided to leave the 1in wilwood master on my truck 'was on before we found the bent lines' so I didn't wanna take it off.

 

After adjusting my prop/valve just about all the way up 'less rear brake' my pedal is still pretty darn stiff. I'm sure I can get use to it but I'd rather not!

Here's what I'm talking about in the thread poated.

"

There's a very high probability that you'll hate the pedal feel for a 1" master cylinder, unless you have the equally massive multiple-piston calipers they are designed to go with. If you use that big of a master on regular style brakes the pedal will be very stiff, and not in a good way. I know, I've done it.

 

It's not that it's "only" 1/16 larger than the 15/16's, but when you increase diameter the volume increases exponentially, not linearly. A 15/16 master has .69 inches of area, and a 1 inch master has .78 inches of area, which (if my math is right) is a 12% difference. Which is A LOT.

"
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The 521 bearings can still be found. I got a set off Fleabay cheap a month ago. Its all about the research and cross reference. The 620 bearing is a great setup. I'm going to likely run that only because of the availability and mine is full custom front anyway but I'm still using the 521 hubs.

 

I'll give you all a little hint, not all wheel bearing were used only as wheel bearings. Some were used in drive and transmission applications. I'm going to see if I can find a set on ebay. Be right back LOL.

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Well stock up on them! So everyone can come to you for them haha.

 

My bearings were fine.. and the hubs I grabbed had just been repacked or something cuz they were tits!

 

..I would rather not push as hard as I do for my brakes.. maybe I need to drive Jrocks truck to get a different feel. Ha.

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Set of 4 on Ebay...with pictures $40, free ship. Manufacturer....FAG.

 

 

FAG is a huge bearing mfg. If they are still making this bearing then you should be able to have a reliable source for a long time. A quick email to one of the distributors or sales guys would let you know what the status is on manufacture of that part number. I'm sure every 521 guy on the forums would be in your debt.  :)

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