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White powdercoat - 10inch Turbines


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Anyone done it? I'm thinking about doing it, either that or black them out...... Black is hard to keep clean. I'm noticing that with my black bonnet now... Previously I've done Mitsubishi Evo Grey on wheels, hides brake dust and looks great.

 

Thoughts, pics or advice welcome.

 

Cheers,

Geordie

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Hulk green and black. It's name right now is 'the other guy...' When it finally gets a paint job, if in my lifetime, the name will change to 'Bruce'. I've got Z bolt on flares for front and back - just haven't ever seen whiteout Western Turbines - seen black and I like it, but maybe I want more of a race look with stretch.... hmmmm

 

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To bad your not closer I own a pc shop we could do a dope two tone and for everyone else if u go to a powdercoater and they don't sand blast or insist on blasting your wastin your money..... Those cast turbines will need some gas out time in the oven they will pin hole everywhere if they don't..... My snoflakes did and I rushed it the first time and they were garbage had to start over.... At least to my liking.... Cast wheels are a bitch but can be done....I ended up keeping my son flakes in the oven pre baking for 4 hours ...... Whites never come in flat or satin it's always semi gloss .... We use about ten brands of powder and none have a flat white..... Maybe one reason is flat colors don't clean well..... White being the worst one time grabbing it with a greasy hand and it is very tough to get clean..... For yor wheels being rough cast I wouldn't reccomend anything but a gloss white they will get permanently dirty between the spokes.... It's a fact of life your shop should have let u in on..... I run gloss white titans on my Mazda and there a bitch to keep white there's one wheels that gassed out in the lug holes I ran it anyway and took it back off and re did it with in a week after I couldn't ever get them as clean as the other three ..... Feel freeto pm or ask on here of u have any further concerns

 

One last thing cast wheels should never be blasted with black iron or slag only use walnuts shells and garnet they don't pit the metal and cause voids.... U should never use slag or iron it contaminates aluminum , Especially cast...... Things your pc shop shoulda told u ahead of time

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The blastin with slag or iron will imbed in the cast and of they don't get coverage.....minimum two coats it will bleed little rust dots that definately are removable ....... I prime all cast wheels to alleviate this and still Sao. Oat after epoxy primer by DuPont

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To bad your not closer I own a pc shop we could do a dope two tone and for everyone else if u go to a powdercoater and they don't sand blast or insist on blasting your wastin your money..... Those cast turbines will need some gas out time in the oven they will pin hole everywhere if they don't..... My snoflakes did and I rushed it the first time and they were garbage had to start over.... At least to my liking.... Cast wheels are a bitch but can be done....I ended up keeping my son flakes in the oven pre baking for 4 hours ...... Whites never come in flat or satin it's always semi gloss .... We use about ten brands of powder and none have a flat white..... Maybe one reason is flat colors don't clean well..... White being the worst one time grabbing it with a greasy hand and it is very tough to get clean..... For yor wheels being rough cast I wouldn't reccomend anything but a gloss white they will get permanently dirty between the spokes.... It's a fact of life your shop should have let u in on..... I run gloss white titans on my Mazda and there a bitch to keep white there's one wheels that gassed out in the lug holes I ran it anyway and took it back off and re did it with in a week after I couldn't ever get them as clean as the other three ..... Feel freeto pm or ask on here of u have any further concerns

 

One last thing cast wheels should never be blasted with black iron or slag only use walnuts shells and garnet they don't pit the metal and cause voids.... U should never use slag or iron it contaminates aluminum , Especially cast...... Things your pc shop shoulda told u ahead of time

 

Thanks for the heads up man - would have been nice if you'd chimed in on this thread before I went and got them blasted...... Which I did off my own back as I want it done at least semi-professional. To be completely honest, I don't really care about clean - hard to clean etc. I've already paid way too much for these rims (to have the only ones here in AUS I'm pretty sure) and what you are describing - altho I'm sure it is legit and a best practice way of doing it - I just don't think I could find a PC nut here that would put in that kind effort and share that knowledge for a customer. Honestly!

 

I almost went black - hell I could have gone rattle can black but I chose white and only time will tell how they will look.

 

Here is the breakdown of costs so far - it's ok, you can tell me I'm crazy.....

Purchase price - $350 US

Freight/Customs/Taxes - approx. $1,200 to $1,400 AUD !!!!

Blast - $140 for all 4

Powdercoat - $60 per wheel

Rubber - approx. $85 to $95 a wheel

Flares - universal Z flares - black gel coat - $250

 

To get stance and to have not only the only white turbines around but probably also the only turbines in Australia..... Priceless.

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Wish we had competition like this....

 

Purchase 5 pretty rusty wheels...$50.

PC 5 15x8 K5 steel wheels by a good shop...$45 a piece.

5 used 195/60R15 tires with 7/32" tread...free.

Labor to mount/balance wheels...10 minutes of my own time.

 

Baddest 521 in my town...priceless.

 

Drizzle, drizzle.

Sorry to rain on your parade.

 

Your wheels look bad ass!

Get some mounted pics already!

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Damn man sorry I missed the thread earlier I try and chime in.... Didn't realize we were that far apart .....almost a full day lol...... U got a ton of dough in these and I'm sure they will turn out ..... Just tryig to share the things I have learned and experienced in my time ..... Sounds like u are getting a fair price I charge between 65 to 75 a wheel on cast but I also invest more money then a typical shop in my prep and using expensive epoxy primer.... I prefer my work is done right over trying to make huge profits..... But like I said the blast technique and product I use to boas is less aggressive and takes more time but I think the result is ten times the product some people put out ..... That's probably my draw back from being a wildly successful business owner.... I treat every customers wheels like they would be my own cause I kinda feel like they are being that I am being trusted with someone's wheels..... Trust me after the fact when some customers come by to show off and I see the condition of there car or rig that I made the wheels nicer than the rest of the car but I still feel awesome when I see that car later rolljgon the road and see how mch better the car looks.... As far as the k 5 ..... After blastin I take a weed burning propane torch and burn the seam where the hoop and center are joined..... Seems rally's and this type of wheels it makes the seam turn out better since all kinds of contaminants can bleed from that seam..... High temps change th viscosity of things and grease and oil will appear for no where..... On the primer coat I will preheat the wheel to about 300 and immediately coat the wheel taking care to hit the seam good..... It's tough to get powder to take in those areas and pre heating allows the powder to stick and adhere to the seam better..... Once I switch to color I will still hit the wheel hot but not as hot since the primer increases conductivity..... I usually shoot the first coat of color at about 180 to 200..... Then on the final coat I will shoot it at ambient temp and a lower kv setting ...... This is the steps that I har the best result on a welded hoop style wheel....

 

Wheels can be tough but if u take the time and figure out wha works best u can eliminate the chances of errors ......

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looks like new studs needed.... guy who sent them to me forgot to include his lug nuts! frustrating however, they wouldn't fit the front studs anyway cause that hub/rotor & calipers isn't standard obviously.... Now need to find longer wheel studs to suit with mag wheel nuts.

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here are the flares also - really going to have to have a good look at these as I'm pretty sure the 'bigger' flares are for the rear - however my offset on the front is gumby and like a tractor so the rims stick out further than the rear. Soopa ghey!

 

Thanks for the kind words on the rims. I've got some travel coming up which will get in the way of getting these mounted asap. Once I've got rubber and time to put them, take them off, put them on, cut the guards etc - I'll post up here. & yes - I'm getting stretch. Opinions on stretch left at the door. I've read enough threads about it to know both schools. Cheers.

 

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