Jump to content
demo243

Red 71 4dr - Carbed KA24DE

Recommended Posts

Everything looks great.  Looking forward to seeing this get wrapped up.  As for driveshaft shop, I've heard nothing but good things about them.  As long as you can take accurate measurements you should be fine.  I too need a custom driveshaft made for my motor swap, and plan on trying out http://southbay-driveline.com/(looks like we are both in the bay area).  

Share this post


Link to post

Everything looks great. Looking forward to seeing this get wrapped up. As for driveshaft shop, I've heard nothing but good things about them. As long as you can take accurate measurements you should be fine. I too need a custom driveshaft made for my motor swap, and plan on trying out http://southbay-driveline.com/(looks like we are both in the bay area).

Yea I'm in Pacifica

 

I've read about those guys in the south bay too- they seem to have a good rep- I was gonna reach out to them about shortening and custom built too

 

I saw you picked up that 510 with honda motor - I remember browsing through that build thread - I think he used the same wiring harness I'm planning on. How the wiring look? EDIT: I think that was a different yellow 510 on stanceworks with a Honda swap.... Idk been wasting to much time at work researching datsuns hahaha

Share this post


Link to post

Block off plate for coolant out of the timing cover, also plugged the rear coolant- wish there was a better way then just a rubber plug... but that piece isnt moving... put a spare cap in the glove box so Ill be ready should it dry and crack

 

 

I've had good luck with pressing in a freeze plug then welding it? 

 

I did it like that with the rubber cap once. Lasted about a year. Just made it a point to change it once a year whether it was leaking or not.  :rofl:

Share this post


Link to post

I've had good luck with pressing in a freeze plug then welding it?

 

I did it like that with the rubber cap once. Lasted about a year. Just made it a point to change it once a year whether it was leaking or not. :rofl:

Can't weld... Yet... But I'll keep that in mind.

Share this post


Link to post

Yea I'm in Pacifica

 

I've read about those guys in the south bay too- they seem to have a good rep- I was gonna reach out to them about shortening and custom built too

 

I saw you picked up that 510 with honda motor - I remember browsing through that build thread - I think he used the same wiring harness I'm planning on. How the wiring look? EDIT: I think that was a different yellow 510 on stanceworks with a Honda swap.... Idk been wasting to much time at work researching datsuns hahaha

 

I don't think he had a build thread.  He really didn't do much other than have T3 install the motor/motor mounts.  The wiring will be fairly simple, I'm using the stock s2000 loom (part of it) with the ARC switch panel.  

Share this post


Link to post

Well its in-  But it didnt go willingly....  and Im not particularly happy with how its sitting...

 

Pan and Pick-Up showed up - Big Shout out to Trophy24!!! and some nice looking work by Ray at Garage Autohero 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spec Stage 1 Clutch and Fidenza LW Flywheel

 

 

 

Putting up a good fight.... Got it in the car with the header up but then ran into a clearance issue so ended up pulling it off to mess around with positioning.

 

 

 

So its in.... But Im not happy with it... I forgot to snap a photo of it... but I can not get it to mount up on 510 soft mounts with the upper soft mount hole aligned with the lower x-member hole... passenger side will mount up but then the driver is about an inch behind where it needs to be... managed to wrangle it on there but then the driver side mount was super tweaked. Was able to get it in and bolted up with the McKinney Mounts, but this puts it higher then I want and still doesnt give me the clearance I want.... also puts the trans about an inch in front of the trans x-member. --- also I feel it might not be in the engine bay straight either (rear end of the motor kicked to the driver side a hair)

 

 

 

Plenty of clearance on the driver side... 

 

 

 

Passenger side it super close though... and it shouldnt be this close based on the photos Ray sent me when he fabbed up the pan

 

 

 

So I am thinking I need some custom block brackets to offset the motor back about an inch --- plenty of room to move it back

 

 

I could potentially slot or re-drill the stock block brackets but that ill only get me 1/4-1/2" and I would like to go a full inch back- maybe a hair more... need to take some measurements

 

 

 

But ideally I get something fabbed like what Duke or Creepy did -

 

Dukes -

 

 

 

Creepys - 

 

 

 

 

Or possibly something like the 620 mounts but those are fully fabbed.

Share this post


Link to post

Looking at the shifter hole, it definitely looks offset to the driver's side a little. Is there any way you have the block mounts on the wrong sides? Or two right side mounts? My stock s13 mounts look slightly angled to push the motor back

Share this post


Link to post

Looking at the shifter hole, it definitely looks offset to the driver's side a little. Is there any way you have the block mounts on the wrong sides? Or two right side mounts? My stock s13 mounts look slightly angled to push the motor back:

 

 

Block Mounts are definitely right. You can only mount then on their specific sides. The passenger side front is offset down to clear the filter adapter.  Ive got both s13 and s14 block mounts and it looks like the s14 ones actually sit it just a hair back

 

Going to cut some more of the trans tunnel as it seems to be hitting a little bit, but I dont want to cut to much since the trans actually needs to drop down about an inch to meet the x-member... need to get under there to look at driveline angles too though...

Share this post


Link to post

Sorry all-  been busy .... lazy... and frustrated.... time for some more updates

 

Distributor block off- 

 

 

 

Trigger wheel sensor

 

 

 

 

 

Then came the fun.... 

 

Been  around with the motor and trans mounts for more hours then Im willing to admit.... this is the most frustrating part... With the T3 trans mount forward it puts the engine way to far forward... with it back facing it actually puts it in a nice spot with the engine pretty close to the fire wall.... but this requires new hard motor mounts... also the t3 trans xmember even with the energy suspension bushing is going to require a spacer... pretty bummed on that.... also in trying to get everythign lined up I may have gotten a bit carried away with the cut off wheel... and this car is gonna need some sheet metal work... Also even with the engine and trans lose it still seems like the drivers side mount is further back then the passenger side.... no matter how I tweak it all

 

anyway pictures are worth a thousand words or something like that

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lots of clearance this way

 

 

 

 

 

The angles are off too on the mounts verses the x-member... 

 

 

 

 

 

So super frustrated right now...  really just want to load it on a trailer and drive it somewhere to have the engine/trans/driveshaft taken care of.... The other option is get some custom mounts fabbed kinda like the ones below... and then drill the holes for the soft mounts myself.... photo stolen from the510realm

 

 

 

If using the stock 510 soft mounts Id like to pull them up to there stock positions too.... but I dont think i can take accurate measurements myself to make this happen.....

 

Nobody said this would be easy.... 

Share this post


Link to post

It's easy they said... bolt in swap they said...

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Hey man i feel youre pain.. ive done the Ka swap a few times if you are local to San diego ill cruise by and help you or fab you some brackets!

It just suprises me that no one makes mounts... I mean come on someone makes em to swap into an AE86...

 

 

Up in norcal- but Rag10 is gonna help me out with the mounts

Share this post


Link to post

It's easy they said... bolt in swap they said...

I knew it wasn't gonna a be easy ... Especially with carbs:... But I did think the actual mounting wouldn't be the easiest not the hardest.......

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I feel you pain bud. I just got my de/e in and i ended up looking at it and said fuck it and customed up the mounts. Im using a 280zx trans tho so i had to reclock the motor and trans for a happy medium, I think you sold the trans to me :). 

 

Get the engine in the right spot. Laser or align the output and diff so they are at the correct angle. get some card board and make a mount with tape.  take the card board apart and cut a bunch of little pieces of metal to match your design then assemble and weld them together.  (by the third try it will be perfect or you will be angry as shit) 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Output and diff should not be perfectly aligned. U joint life is significantly higher when run at slight angles. They are designed to operate that way.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I feel you pain bud. I just got my de/e in and i ended up looking at it and said fuck it and customed up the mounts. Im using a 280zx trans tho so i had to reclock the motor and trans for a happy medium, I think you sold the trans to me :).

Thats why you swap to a naps z bellhousing

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Damn its been a long time.... 

 

Well just like everyone else Photobucket screwed this thread...... So I have switched to Flickr.... and hopefully this will work. I am working on ripping all my old photobucket photos and will try and dump some of the better ones.

 

In the mean time--- finally and update. 

 

Its Alive!

 

After a year and a half she drove under her own power again. Still got plenty of kinks to work out but its running.... 

 

So stay tuned for the inevitable photo dump---

 

Heres to tearing out my L... Building a KA... and dealing with all the associated issues that arise... including a full rewire.

 

Bear with me as it may take a couple days to get it all uploaded.... but Ill just leave this here to keep you entertained.

 

36781637212_2317075fc2_k.jpgIMG_2198 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post

Come on man, red or black spark cables.  What are you doing???

 

Looks good though!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Come on man, red or black spark cables.  What are you doing???

 

Looks good though!

Red would fit the colors of the car better... but I am partial to the look of the  blue NGK wires 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post

Red would fit the colors of the car better... but I am partial to the look of the  blue NGK wires 

 

This is the dilemma we all run into..

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Forewarning - it seems my uploads got jumbled around so this may jump around too... The build it self also jumped around alot as it was done over a year and half with lots of frustration and interuptions

 

First step - Pull the L Motor - Never dug deep enough to figure out what the issue was ... but it was knocking bad after throwing the crank pulley off at Thunder Hill

 

36556911100_c89796f83c_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

And sending stuff off to the machine shop - Thanks Busta!

 

36145022093_59d14d53b6_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

 

For those interested in KADE carb manifolds these are the two I was able to find -- 

 

This is an unknown origin - many have said its the Nismo/Nissan USA one but those were produced by Ed Pink and he said it was not one of his 

36953036985_e41ee0d5f5_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

This one is I believe the Nissan Motorsports USA one - made by Ed Pink 

 

36118885344_1e2441fa67_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

Liked the look and Quality of the EWL one so I used that one --- after much searching I still have been unable to find any information on who produced it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

While all that was going on I started thinking about getting the gauges to work... knowing there was going to be some wiring needed I pulled the dash and found a ratsnest... I dont think there was a single wire that was one solid color for its entire run length. Also included were some less the stellar connections and even a hot wire left totally un protected

 

36557096290_3209f9493e_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

36765735336_a6b050bf2e_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

36953060235_20db85e23b_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

I made the bold move and ripped it all out- only thing I left was the tail light harness.

 

After much research I decided on the American Auto Wire Highway 15 kit - if i were to do it again I would probably go for the 22 even though I dont need all of the fuses... just nice to have the extras, and for any one with interior lights or accessories or running fuel injection I would go the 22 as well. 

 

I chose this mostly for the fact that the fuse box comes with out wires connected allowing your to run only what you need and potentially do one wire at a time - after thought... it would be cleaner to run groups of wires together. I think my wiring organization is acceptable for my first time but definitely would prefer it to be a bit cleaner.

 

It is also worth noting that i didnt really use any of the connectors provided by American Autowire using mostly 3m heatshrink crimp connectors. I did use there wires though as the labels should prove helpful in the future should i need to track down any wiring issues- 

 

Highway 15 fuse panel-

 

36953320695_ebc5e8f80d_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

Mounted with the megajolt box next to it on a piece of aluminum on the fire wall  - later I mounted the fan controller between the two

 

36557085180_acebb91f0d_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

Nothing special but I highly recomend getting some space to lay everything out -- just makes it easier to see what you have

 

36557168400_20b6e9758d_k.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

As I said... not the cleanest.. .but you can see most of it... and almost all wires are constant and marked from fuse to destination. All engine wiring goes through the hold right under the fuse box, all accessory (lights and what not go through the lower right hole) - mounted the relays for the headlights and horn under the glove box. 

 

36557200390_8ebfd0146a_z.jpgUntitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

With the American Autowire instructions along with a 510 wiring diagram plus some tech support from Rag10 I was able to get it all wired and working. Only think missing are reverse lights. Just need the connector for the trans. Head lights are wired using the american auto wire switch with power going to two relays and then the stock stalk connecting the ground for either the high or low beams.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Looks awesome!  I'm in the planning stages of rewiring my car and am seriously looking at the American Autowire kit.  I'm hesitant though because, like you, I don't think I will use any of the connectors included in the kit, so I would just be buying it for the fuse box and wires.  Not sure if it is worth it.

 

I really like that cast manifold you have.  Very cool piece.  Just a note on the Uni Filters you are using.  From what I have read and heard they are junk in terms of flow.  With an air filter the one of the most important factors is surface area.  With those small filters you are just choking the engine.  It would be interesting to run the engine back to back with and without the filters and see if the AFR's change.

 

Bummer you won't be in California for much longer, it would be cool to get our cars together and see how they compare.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Looks awesome! I'm in the planning stages of rewiring my car and am seriously looking at the American Autowire kit. I'm hesitant though because, like you, I don't think I will use any of the connectors included in the kit, so I would just be buying it for the fuse box and wires. Not sure if it is worth it.

 

I really like that cast manifold you have. Very cool piece. Just a note on the Uni Filters you are using. From what I have read and heard they are junk in terms of flow. With an air filter the one of the most important factors is surface area. With those small filters you are just choking the engine. It would be interesting to run the engine back to back with and without the filters and see if the AFR's change.

 

Bummer you won't be in California for much longer, it would be cool to get our cars together and see how they compare.

Yea its kinda of a waste to not use their connectors... But I think getting their wires was worth it both for the many different colors but also because they are labeled. You could potentially build a kit... All the wires are more then long enough to connect.

 

Yea I know the uni filters aren't ideal... Plan is eventually go to itg s

 

Need to get my afr working ... Sitting at a constant 7.4 no matter what.... Going to try and recalibrate it

 

The other issue I am having right now is with the tps sensor and megajolt. It will allow me to calibrate it.... But then it's not reading it when running ... So right now it's just on a straight 15 degree map

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.