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Red 71 4dr - Carbed KA24DE


demo243

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Anybody have a good reccomendations for a rebuild kit? The machine shop I spoke with is looking for 1300 for "stock" parts...

 

Looking at Cleggs or RPM Machine right now - any experience?

 

 

Also ordered the T3 trans mount, oddessy battery mount and picked up a full ford edis 4 set up off Ebay.

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Cleggs is actually located about 20 minutes from where I live. I have used their engine kits with good results. they are the same kits They assemble engines with in house They are also a machine shop, one of the best in my area, and where I have all my machine work done. I would recommend them.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Got a few more updates... mostly just parts I've picked up.

 

Scored most of a motor along with a ton of really good performance parts on craiglist for super cheap, so looks like I will be building a forged motor-

 

Here is the first part. Block appears to be bored/honed already. Most of this stuff wont get used, but it was a take all deal so I got em all. If anyone needs KA parts let me know! 

 

 

 

Block - I will likely use this one since it may not need to be bored. Need to get it measured to confirm.

 

 

 

Now for the good stuff! Brand new still in packaging - Wiseco 9:1 pistons, Eagle Rods, ARP main and head studs, King Bearings and a Commetic head gasket - Also an AEM Fuel Rail and  DeatschWerks injectors, dont need either one of these so they will both go up for sale.

 

 

 

The big question now is do I run these 9:1 pistons or sell them and get 10.5:1 pistons... 

 

With a Decked head and block and a thin gasket the 9:1 will bump up a hair more and be pretty close to the stock 9.5:1... 

 

Or I run 10.5:1 pistons with a thicker gasket to bring the compression down a bit and run on Pump gas better. Everything I have ready basicly says over 10:1 you need race gas or at a minimum 93... which we dont have here in Cali.

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Oh yea... time line on the KA has been bumped up to ASAP.

 

Got the L back together and went to fire it... it doesnt sound pretty. 

 

http://vid871.photobucket.com/albums/ab271/demo243/KA%20build/new%20parts%202-17/BD2B83FF-E099-48C4-9BDC-0D4FF66B4A76.mp4

 

There is no reason for me to pull it and work on it before the KA, so it is just going to wait. Once I have the KA ready Ill pull it, install the KA, and then tear down the L to see what the issue is before selling it or parting it.

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Also picked up an AFCO radiator for the swap. Although unfortunately my nismo radiator cap wont fit...

 

New AFCO rad on the right, and Koyo 510 rad on the left for comparison.

 

 

Picked up a linkage rod for the carb manifold, but will need to drill and tap the mount holes since the rod towers are bigger then the mounts on the manifold.

 

Still need to figure out the trigger wheel. If anyone with a KA could snap a picture of the clearance between the pulley and the timing cover that would be great. Didnt do that before I tore the motor down. 

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Oh yea... time line on the KA has been bumped up to ASAP.

 

Got the L back together and went to fire it... it doesnt sound pretty.

 

http://vid871.photobucket.com/albums/ab271/demo243/KA%20build/new%20parts%202-17/BD2B83FF-E099-48C4-9BDC-0D4FF66B4A76.mp4

 

There is no reason for me to pull it and work on it before the KA, so it is just going to wait. Once I have the KA ready Ill pull it, install the KA, and then tear down the L to see what the issue is before selling it or parting it.

That don't sound good. Good luck with the KA build and swap.
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You probably already know this but if not I'll save you a major headache. If you use the ARP main studs you are going to have to have the crank line honed. They distort the mains enough that it will eat a bearing in under 1k. Also when you send the motor in make sure if the block has been decked they deck the timing cover to fit. I've seen it when the timing cover is normal height, block decked and the #1 piston blows the headgasket into the timing cover area and destroys the motor. If you have any questions message me on here, I'm pretty familiar with the KA and SR's :D 

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You probably already know this but if not I'll save you a major headache. If you use the ARP main studs you are going to have to have the crank line honed. They distort the mains enough that it will eat a bearing in under 1k. Also when you send the motor in make sure if the block has been decked they deck the timing cover to fit. I've seen it when the timing cover is normal height, block decked and the #1 piston blows the headgasket into the timing cover area and destroys the motor. If you have any questions message me on here, I'm pretty familiar with the KA and SR's :D

 

Good to know on the ARP main studs....  I was not aware of that - even on the 240 motors with the girdles?

 

I knew about the timing cover.

 

I'll shoot you a message. Got a few questions.

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  • 2 months later...

Long time with no updates... but more to come soon.

Block and rotating assembly just went off to the machine shop. 

Custom rear sump pan being fabbed by Ray at Garage Autohero up in the Seattle area.

Need to decide if I rebuild the bare ... but ported and polished head... or rebuild the complete head... and maybe have it ported an polished. 

Also still need to get the trigger wheel added to the crank pulley, that should be done soon. 

After that its just a matter of bolting it all up I think... Famous last words... Hahahaha

More updates to come.

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  • 2 months later...

Been a while... No updates.

 

Still not running... been super busy with work and life. Bought a new truck as a daily... got engaged... and am finally back working on the car again. 

 

So heres to updates. Nothing to crazy. Just some tear down and parts pics. 

 

Big news is I have decided to rewire the car as well as upgrade to speed hut gauges - Photos to follow toward the end.

 

Picked up one of these - going to mount it on the floor behind the passenger seat I think.

 

 

 

Teaser Shot for the future as well!

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As I said above - Bought a new truck - Old tacoma needed alot of work and I couldn't justify putting the money into it so I picked up this awesome 2015 with only 17,000 miles on it.

 

 

 

Parts finally went off to the machine shop - Bored block  - balanced rotating assembly - rebuilt head

 

 

 

 

 

Pulled the dash off to get an idea of what I would be dealing with wiring wise.... 

 

 

 

Not pretty... Full of splices, connections, and some sketchy shit... like a full hot lead straight off the starter/battery just hanging out behind the dash. None of the wire match up either so hard to follow what is what.

 

So everything came out

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After checking out the wiring I decided to take the leap. Going to rewire the whole car. Picked up the Highway 15 kit from American Auto Wire - largely because it allows you to run the wires one at a time and remove the unused ones from the fuse box and add them back in later on if you want. More updates on that to come. 

 

Decided since I am redoing the wiring I might as well do gauges now too.. Rather then stuff them into stock bezel I am going to go full custom dash. Here is the rough plan. Hopefully make it out of sheet metal, and paint it black. 

 

 

 

 

 

The big Question now is Red or White Gauges--- Im thinking Red

 

Red?

 

 

White?

 

 

Also the wiring harness came in today. Going to mount the fuse box on the under the glove box along with the Megajolt module. 

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Thanks- I'm leaning toward the black on red

 

The biggest thing in terms of wiring is going to get it to work with the stock turn signal stalk and ignition

 

Bigger issues have arisen though....

 

Apparently both KA heads I have are no good. Being told by the machine shop that they have head gasket material embedded in the head.... And can't seem to find a rebuilt head that doesn't require a good core deposit....

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